Recent E500 purchase-some issues to address - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: 2007 E220CDI, 1990 300E-24V, 1987 W124 200 (3.6 AMG build- ongoing!) 1993 E500 W124
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Post Recent E500 purchase-some issues to address

So I have owned many W124ís over the years & currently have a 300E-24 that I restored and an ongoing E36 w124 build as detailed on here.

But I have always hankered after a V8 500E / E500 & I recently made the fatal mistake of going to look at one. The first car I viewed had way too many issues but the seed was planted- I HAD to get me an E500!

I found a great original car in Birmingham. The owner was a gentleman- vey honest about the car and happy to discuss the car with me. A very fair price was agreed on the car so I could not pass it up. I took a plane over & drove the car to a Ferry in Wales- taking me to Dublin port. Only yesterday actually is when I got the car home.

Anyway- pics attached of the car taken today and letís get to it;

The good

This car was originally delivered to the German Market where it lived for a couple of years. Then it was shipped to California for approx 10 years before coming to the UK with the same owner I have bought it from now. It has full service history and lots of history including all service invoices from Germany & CA- until current day. It also had an upgrade to full E60 suspension when it was in CA and those alloys added after- but I will get some 500E limited EVO 17ís for it if I can find a good set. The wheels are growing on me though so I will wait & see- anyone who views the car loves the wheels on it

It has 124k miles on it backed up by the extensive service & MOT records even dating back to itís german origins. and despite the obvious (to me) sign of eco junk- it purrs like a kitten. The power is incredible. On the way home I gave it full throttle kickdown whilst driving along at 45mph on a dry (But very slightly damp in places) road and it instantly smoked the rear tires until I let off again!

It drives fantastically well. Smooth fast car- lots of effortless power. Rock steady smooth idle- trans is great too crisp well timed shifts and going through the shifter from D to R etc is fast hot & cold trans.

Interior is immaculate- all original including the stereo. Seats are like new & all power / heating functions work. (Except the headrest- I can hear the motor buz but no moving) I have fitted a discrete looking Sony USB unit today but kept the original stereo for safe keeping and also used a wiring harness adapter so the original stereo will simply plug right back in if & when I want to.

It's very well presented in a Metallic charcoal grey colour. I can tell the car has been resprayed I would say within the last 5 years or so. I will get my usual painter to colour sand & machine buff the car in the near future to make it totally perfect. Currently some minor orange peel is showing in places like the car wasn't colour sanded at all after the respray.

Tyres all are in great condition & matching.

Brakes are strong and responsive- no problems there.

The bad- these are the issues I will be addressing over the coming months. The purchase price worked for me & the vendor in light of these issues. I have a few £K to play with the make the car perfect as it should be. It's already a fantastic car & most people would happily drive it as it is. But it is my dream car essentially so only perfection will do! When these issues are dealt with this car is easily worth £16-20k+ in our market.... but I will not be selling the car- itís a keeper for me.

The car has a degrading wiring harness (See pics) I tried to read the white sticker on the ETA- can't read nada. Presumed ECO Junk also. I will order a new Engine harness from MB on Tuesday and re-visit the ETA when I have the engine stripped down for the replacement harness. I may well re-wire the ETA like I did recently for my C36 Motor. Also to that end- the Cruise control does not function either.

Some bits of trim here & there are loose so I will get new clips and fix these as I go along.

The key won't work on the driver's door- stuck. I freed it up but it will only turn the unlock direction. I have bought a full Cat 1 alarm like I used on my 300E-24. I will fit that to the car & the fob will then operate the central locking. (+ the obvious advantage of a Category 1 alarm / dual immobilizer)

It had some electrical gremlins inside- this morning I replaced all the corroded fuses with copper ceramic flosser ones- most issues now fixed. Except the interior dash illumination is dead. I will tonight adjust the dimmer on the cluster to see if it will flicker them on. Otherwise the power is lost somewhere I will have to start further diagnosing the problem.

The car runs too cool- about 60 degrees. Thermostat is to blame- new one ordered along with a coolant cap and the correct Zerox coolant for preventative maintenance when I am in there.

The power aerial is stuck out and not functioning. New one ordered also

Car is de-badged- new E500 one ordered from MB

The LHM fluid is very low- I will get the correct fluid- top it up & monitor.
The ABS / ASR lights are on constant. (The battery was hooked off the car by the vendor during storage as a side note) However- I believe the degrading engine harness may be the issue for the lights on. I will replace it first and go from there. I did check the battery voltages today- battery 12.68v with the car off & 14.37v at idle.

I will have the car on a 2 post lift tomorrow or Tuesday so I will get a proper look and see what condition the underside is in. I do hear a soft knock occasionally from the back end- maybe a bad drop link.

It was serviced 6 months ago but I will be giving it a full mega service soon with the trans fluid / diff etc included. (All Fuchs Titan recommend brews- Redline is not commonly available here in Ireland)
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post #2 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 12:32 PM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Mar 2010
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The Interior illumination issue is addressed- touching the switch invoked illumination! Further twisting and now all permanent & AOK Some bulbs blown but that's ok I have new spares to fit.

The car has done very few K over the past 5 years or so. So from it standing is how some of these issues have cropped up in the first place. (It was stored by the PO on carpet in a heated garage)
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Last edited by JC220; 03-28-2016 at 01:36 AM.
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post #3 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 01:57 PM
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Very nice car and you will enjoy it to no end. The inop cruise is a sure sign of a near dead throttle actuator. The upper harness is a breeze to install. For someone like you, I'd say an hour and a half of your time. The lower harness should be inspected as well. There's a strong chance it is original. It is simple to rebuild..not so simple to remove/replace. It isn't a hard job, but tedious and a real time eater.

Have fun with it.

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post #4 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jayare- yes I will bear in mind the lower harness too. With the Eco junk stuff I tend to not even touch it or disturb anything as it will further crumble inside.

I will price the lower harness is it's reasonable I might just get it along with the engine harness. Or rebuild at a later date.

Do you guys think the ABS / ASR lights could be due to the Eco junk harness? I have read these LH injected engines have the ECU controlling the ABS ASR systems too. Or is there anything else I can check to fix / troubleshoot the issue prior to the new harness being fitted?

Other threads I read on the ABS ASR lights on issue were sensor faults or voltage issues with bad battery voltage / OVP's etc.
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post #5 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 04:48 PM
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As far as the ASR lights etc. I would first look at the first module in the compartment where the ECU/ASR/ABS modules are located. It is a black box on passenger side where a battery is usually located. In that box on the far left is a module that has 4 flat fuses. Test all the fuses, replace if necessary. Next the car should have the built in flash fault code reader. (again next to the box as mentioned above). Read the codes and then reset the codes. You may get lucky here, if not, proceed with the direction as described by others in this thread.

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post #6 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-27-2016, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by magicbigdaddy View Post
As far as the ASR lights etc. I would first look at the first module in the compartment where the ECU/ASR/ABS modules are located. It is a black box on passenger side where a battery is usually located. In that box on the far left is a module that has 4 flat fuses. Test all the fuses, replace if necessary. Next the car should have the built in flash fault code reader. (again next to the box as mentioned above). Read the codes and then reset the codes. You may get lucky here, if not, proceed with the direction as described by others in this thread.
Thanks for the tips- I will check the fuses and codes later this evening & report back.
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post #7 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 01:23 AM
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And since the car was sitting for a long time be very, very careful removing the 4 lid screws of the module box. Being steel screws that are seated in a aluminum surface (the module box), they have a tendency to want to seize. If they don't come out easily, stop. Apply heat carefully, such as from a small torch to the box corner area, while applying slight force to the screw. If the screws back out great. If not, leave it alone.

I had this very issue with my V12 W140, where 1 screw was broken off and I figured Clarkson style "how hard could it possibly be". Well, that job turned into hell, not only did the lid screws all break off, so did the lower screws that hold the aluminum box.

Short story, I ended up having to destroy the box, the box mount and order new replacements. But the worst part was that the ABS/ASR sensors run through the box and they cannot be manipulated out of the way without destroying the box, which is only made worse that you have to pull the entire ABS/ASR sensor line and route it if you don't want to cut into the new box.

All in all, it was a 17+ hour job and it probably is closer to 23 hours all in by the time I finished.

IF you do end up getting lucky get new lid screws and drown those bastards in copper grease before installation. If you go the masochistic route like I did, apply copper grease to everything, everywhere at each spot aluminum and steel meet.
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post #8 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the heads up Sbaert- I will be careful with the screws when trying to remove. Mike K says the HFM scan should work fine with the car (This car is LH- not full functionality maybe just yet I’m not sure- but I will be able to read/ delete fault codes at least) I will also record data and send to Mike if possible.

I will take a look later for whatever diagnostic ports the car has on it, I am hoping it has the round pin plug somewhere & I don’t have to order / wait for Banana plugs.

These are the parts I will be ordering for the service

Fuel filter
Serpentine Belt
Spark plugs
Air filters
Oil filter
SLS filter + fluid
Power steering filter + Fluid
Coolant- cap- thermostat
Engine oil
Brake Fluid
Trains filter - gasket, fluid, plugs & washers
Diff Oil
Pollen filter
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post #9 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 01:41 AM
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Your car has the 38 pin round connector. It can be accessed by removing the round cover on the module lid.

I use the Carsoft system which will work with almost anything MB from the mid 80s on up.

CARSOFT Mercedes V12 System - Single Brand
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post #10 of 85 (permalink) Old 03-28-2016, 04:03 AM
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You should also replace that old style yellow ugly reservoir expanson bottle with new white one. While doing coolant change also replace reservoir cap and coolant sensor. You car is not charcoal gray it is called pearl black code is 199. Also you should look into getting proper E500 headlights. What you have on now is standard w124 headlights.
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