If your car has ASR I could sell you a throttle body that has been rebuilt. Let me know.

 

...iirc asr cars have a white label on the eta. his label is green so is non asr.

 

...theres a guy named victor in astoria ny (youtube astoria mercedes) who rewires them as does another company who gaurentees the work. why not just go to ebay with the part numbers and get a used one. easier and cleaner when its all said and done imo. just be sure the harness has a delfi tag on it and the eta and harness have a build date of (i like) 1998 or later.

 

Heed the advice given by others and you'll be light years ahead.

 

I have the option of using a PVC insulated wire - if that would work.
I decided not to check the potentiometer as this asks for dealing with the axle - I am doing only the harness as shown in the pics (soldering and heat shrink sleeve)
- gauge 18, 20 and 22 maybe - some are copper, some are silver-ish - they look different - I wonder why Mercedes used different wires
Thank you for the advice - I will try to fix it and report back - as soon as I purchase some proper wire (I am not sure what type but the PVC is the closest bet.

 

I have the option of using a PVC insulated wire - if that would work.
I decided not to check the potentiometer as this asks for dealing with the axle - I am doing only the harness as shown in the pics (soldering and heat shrink sleeve)

...if youre determined to do it yourself search astoria mercedes on youtube. a google search will probably turn up helpful tutorials. good luck.

 

This is an easy job to do at home & why throw out a perfectly good Throttle Body with at least trying to repair it first???

I have rewired my own very recently- see this (Ongoing) thread and look for the couple of posts regarding the ETA;

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124...project-2.html

Its not a dificult job just time consuming. Get yourself;

Max 30w Soldering Iron with pointed Tip
Solder Sucker (To clean the Circuit Board before poking through the new wires)
Min. 6m Coil of 0.5mm Cable +
Min. 3m of 1mm Thin Wall Cable.
(Just regular Correct Auto Cable- most are high temp & Fuel resistant- check spec before you buy just incase)

Opening the side of the Throttle body to access the circuit board is easy. Security Torx Bits needed. Just be careful with the circuit board & don't put too much heat into it or you will destroy it in seconds.

The round Plug needs to be cut open. See Pic below. Hacksaw into it only about 4mm deep all the way around exactly at the location shown. Then split apart with a screwdriver. You will be able to prise out the small round block holding the pins.

I used tape to hold the pins in place. Then I replaced only one wire at a time. Heat the pin & the old wire will come out. Then re-heat & push the end of the new wire in. Then add a little fresh solder to finish. The thicker gauge wire is for the Motor terminals.

Please note you only need to replace the wires feeding into the circuit board from the round plug. The few small wires you will see in the Throttle Body itself do not degrade.

Glue the round plug back together & use loom wrap to re-wrap all the wires again.

 

regular PVC wire is in no way suitable for automotive use, it gets hot under that hood, and the oil and stuff that inevitably gets on everything will quickly destroy it... my favorite is aircraft wire, but its quite expensive, has a teflon based insulation, and the individual wire strands are silver plated, so they solder really nicely.

do yourself a huge favor and find some proper lead-tin 60-40 rosin-core solder, the modern lead free stuff sucks.

I recommend using a temperature controlled iron, they heat up faster and are more consistent. I have an old school Weller WTCPN, which is like 75 watts, but the tip used determines the actual temperature, I mostly use '7' tips (700F) for this sort of work. Newer stations have a dial for the temp.

 

Thank you so much! Will start repair and report back - already cut the connector and opened safely no damage
Great to have the diagram!

 

JC220, your instructions were very helpful -
Opened the connector in a different way, I cropped the top (roughly a half-cone) section of the connector keeping the bottom half intact (hoping for more structural integrity when re-assembling(
I managed to replace the thick wire number4 - in the process pin 4 became loose somehow.
I wonder how to secure it so it doesn't come through when connecting to the other harness on the car
I don't khow how the pins are set in the "small round block holding the pins"
I wish I could secure the pin that became loose.
Thank you!

 

No problem glad the info helped. Did you pull out the pin holder? A round plug where all the pins set into. The pins come out from the sides.

Perhaps solder is preventing the pin from seating correctly / fully home. If it bothers you use some glue to hold the loose pin in place. It should never need to be apart again. Just go easy on the glue and be careful it doesn't seep through into the other side of the pins where it plugs into the harness.

 

When you cut the top of the plug as per the picture, there is a little cylinder within about the size of a cotton spool. It is a tight fit but it will prise up & out of the main plug body.

I have no pics of it to hand. The metal pins click into it from the outside in then the assembly is re inserted into the plug body. I am wondering did you get this piece out? If not maybe heat applied to the pin in situ has melted the holder around it.

 

JC220:
I did not pull out the pin holder -
I wish I understand these better:
"The metal pins click into it from the outside in"
"The pins come out from the sides"
"I used tape to hold the pins in place" (maybe pins were taken out and then put back after soldering)

I would assume for my case that even if the pins move slightly they will stay in place when connected to the other harness - other option would be to push/pull them in the right direction and secure them better but I could not figure out what direction (outside in?)
I wonder how are the pins held in place on the pin holder
- will continue today with soldering - in situ and just outside the connector - thank you so much for the instructions
(if I were to start again I would cut around like you did and take pins out and safely solder and put them back)

 

If you haven't already disconnected wires (de-soldered) from the PCB or removed the pins from the connector, I would disconnect one wire and then physically match that wire on the connector (which pin#) creating your own diagram one wire at a time. This will ensure that you are replacing the wires as they were originally and eliminate any room for error. Double check it too. (No disrespect for the post with pin diagram, I am sure it was verified and double checked. However I recall an old thread in the w140 forum, person obviously trying to help but somehow pins were posted backwards). And then, you can verify if what you come up with matches with what others posted.

Yes to Rosin Lead solder and the advice re: soldering above.

When I installed it, to give support at the connector (because it was once cut open and pasted), I used some zip ties pulling both sides of the connector together.

When you install it back on, use new gasket (sure you knew that).

I'm glad you are doing this -- definitely worth it. All the best!

 

AlexN, that is not the true cylinder (I;e it is still within the area you have exposed), the only way to explain is with pics. I found some online- see below.

I would recommend that you cut the connector on around at the point in my first post so you can release this inner part correctly. This will make life alot easier for you and will ensure the integrity of the pins in the plug when all is put back together again as the pins will not be forced out the top which is the wrong way. Just use 2 part epoxy resin to glue the plug back up- it will not matter that you have cut slightly more than normal.

In my original post I said I replaced only one wire at a time. I did also make my own wiring diagram half way through and around the same time found the one I posted here. It 100% matched my car’s ETA. But yes I would recommend proceeding by only cutting out / replacing one wire at a time which will rule out any potential differences in your particular ETA Wiring layout.

Also for a long lasting job I recommend using electrical contact cleaner & a tooth brush to gently clean the circuit board when the repair is complete. This will remove any traces of flux etc left on the board which may start to corrode through time. Also, make sure to use a solder sucker & clean each hole in the board before poking the new wire through for soldering. Nice neat job that way.

Then.... enjoy! & be glad you took the time to repair a very expensive part for next to nothing!

 

Very useful to see the pics with the dismantled "true cylinder" - now I understand the assembly.
Thank you for warning me to be careful to avoid damage to the board and ribbon!
I decided to keep the initial cut line, not confident enough to re-cut the connector.

New major challenge on the circuit board, as one of the thick wires is hardly accessible behind the board.
I will leave this only one wire soldered as it was, clean the old insulation off it and pull it through the hole to the board side.
Then slide a piece of heat shrink insulation and back through the hole towards the connector side.
I will have to rely on the heat shrink tubing for most of the work at the connector side, as segments of the old wires will remain soldered to the pins having only the tubing for insulation.
Only one tube on the board side, the rest new wire soldered.
I hope to report success!

 

New major challenge on the circuit board, as one of the thick wires is hardly accessible behind the board.

You can just remove the board.You'll just need to unsolder a couple of wires to allow clearance if I remember correctly. Also, you can actually unsolder the old wires from the pins that go in the connector end.

You can check out what mine looked at on post #9 on this thread.
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w124-e-ce-d-td-class/2161329-94-e320-pins-8-14-vehicle.html

 

Viewed your post dtsdig - thank you - will unsolder the two black wires that hold the board tight but tough for me to remove the yellow wheel from the axle (which is the one in the way) - neat jobs both dtsdig and JC220.

I got some 1/8" and 1/16" 2:1 heat shrink tubing - bought locally (not too many options here).
Specs: 600V, 2:1 ratio, temp rating -55 to 135C (275F)
I would rely on this product for electrical insulation in one location. I hope that will work.

 

Here's a good thread from the German W124 forum, its not for the M104 however, it might help you.

Hilfe! Meine Drosselklappe spinnt! Seite 2 : @ tomtimo: vielen Dank für den Tipp mit dem CAT5! Sorgen m...

 

Here's a good thread from the German W124 forum, its not for the M104 however, it might help you.

Hilfe! Meine Drosselklappe spinnt! Seite 2 : @ tomtimo: vielen Dank für den Tipp mit dem CAT5! Sorgen m...

 

I finished soldering and I as checked for continuity all good
Checking if the wires touch each other I found one pair: 12 - 13 labeled on the connector that show continuity between each other - same thing 6 - 10.
I do not have any wiring diagram - I will google it.

 

only wiring diagrams I've seen show the CC/ISC as a single module without internal wiring detailed.
http://new.freescruz.com/.priv/W124/w124CD1/Program/ETM/2430200.pdf

or for the EA/CC/ISC version used with ASR,
http://new.freescruz.com/.priv/W124/w124CD1/Program/ETM/2430100.pdf

 

the red wires on top (the only two 20 gauge) are the ones that show continuity - I assume this may be OK as the unit is not powered.
I will finish wrapping the harness with self amalgamating silicone tape .
Now I have trouble getting the old throttle body gasket off the car to replace it with the new one - it seems glued does not come off.
Update: Got it off using a blade and WD40 that helped softening the old gasket (very minor scratches on the machined surface)

 

Anyone knows the torque spec for the M104 throttle body gasket?
Thanks!

 

...looks like 25-30 nm.
http://www.w124performance.com/service/w124CD1/Program/Engine/104/07.3-6210.pdf

 

thats a CIS throttle... guessing the m104 hfm version threads into plastic so might have different numbers. now, if we're talking about a m104 cis, then I dunno

 

...if its plastic i imagine it is.

 

I have the 104.042 2.8 engine. I was asking about the throttle body (metal) that is attached to the intake (metal) through a thin hard gasket by 4 bolts.

 

ok, that should be the same as the M103 CIS version in that PDF above, then, 25-30 Nm (18.4-22 ft-lbs).

 

Reporting the results:
Reassembled all.
First of all, the car started, thank you all for helping!
Cold start:
RPMs up to 1100, then down approx. 600 and up a little and stabilized. I assume this is normal (up-down-up).
Warm: up to 1100 then slowly down until around 6-700 RPMs.
Still have codes 3,5,7 on pin 14 only.