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Old 11-16-2003, 09:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Nov 2003
Vehicle: 92-93 MB E320
Location: philippines
Posts: 21
Low idle, rough idle, stalling, hot and cold start solved: E320/300

Just want to share my experience and have suggestions on how to deal with this problem.
Recently bought a 92-93 E320 distributor type (not HFM/ no air mass sensor)
with the following initial problems

1. low and rough idle when normal T is reached with stalling at braking, creeping speed and wheel lock position
2. black exhaust fumes which I thought to be valve seal leak
3. poor mileage

Sequence of diagnosis
a. change to new spark plugs, cleaned rotor and ICV (but not tested) to no avail
b. with OVP or fuse removed, idle appears to improve but still rough and stalls
with fuse inserted, idle appears to decrease but still rough and stalls

c. tested ICV by applying 12V, clicks but not humming. When checked, it did not close fully and has an open gap. Borrowed an ICV from 102 engine, stalling partially improved
d. ICV change leads to hot and cold start problem which was engine dies and unable to maintain idle unless gas pedal is depressed for 10 sec. When engine is turned off or stalls, engine will not maintain idle once started unless gas pedal is pump. (possible causes listed using my vw Bentley:
Fuel check valve, fuel accumulator, leaky cold start valve, CTS, low air flow adjustment)
e. as a diy person and pressed for time and money, I planned to have the the
fuel check valve and cold start valve change and by grace of the Lord,
check valve is not available, check with other shops until I was directed
to the MB dealer on a late Saturday morning when the mechanics is about
to go home early that day. A fellow mechanic told me that the person
assigned to me is good at fuel injection

Because to much joy and saved money, I have to tip them and additional $50. I saw the trick on how did it. He first adjusted my CO by a hex wrench clockwise to increase the idle, then borrowed an OVP from another car and tested it. SOLUTIONS:
Changed OVP and adjusted CO idle with aircon and on wheel lock position. Cleaned my bosch spark plugs and noted black soot and code G8, according to him, 6 cyl prefers plugs with code F8 or F7. Cleaned the plugs and the black soot is due to fuel mixture and wrong plugs (G8 is for 102 engine) and not valve seals. He suggested to change my ICV and its tubes (cracked) to specs but temporarily he added an additional idle to compensate until I can change my ICV. He also noted that my Fuel Pump Relay is run continuosly by an ICE CUBE and suggested returning it to SPECS.

When driven home, stalling problem solved but when driven on highway I noticed some shifting delay and would not increase speed to the desired: VACUUM LEAK.
Solution, change the small tube connecting the fuel pressure regulator to cylinder head breather hose-air filter system. RESULT: FLAWLESS ACCELERATION and IMPROVED MILEAGE: TOTAL COST: $ 100-120

SAVINGS: Valve seal job, cold start and fuel check valve change.

BASED ON MY EXPERIENCE AND WITH HELP OF AN MB MECHANIC, I suggest the ff sequence of diagnosing low idle and stalling
1. routinely check rotor and plugs and change if necessary. Plug wires if defective, will involve only one and same cylinder repeatedly.
2. remove and check ICV if it closes tightly when current is applied, change if defective. Reattach ICV and check tubes for leaks. then
3. I WOULD SUGGEST CHANGING OVP FIRST BEFORE GOING TO STEP 4 (even if it appears to be good like mine)
4. ADJUST CO using hex wrench counterclockwise until desired smoothness ia attained to richen fuel (this will elevate the air/flow plate to increase fuel flow)
5. check idle with both aircon and wheel lock position and further adjust CO
6. check for leaking vacuum tube from fuel pressure regulator to cylinder vent. Seal tightly.

ACCORDING TO MECH, cold start valve and fuel check are not prone to be faulted but
As STEP 7, you can now check for low fuel pressure problem due check valve by turning off the engine for 30 min to 1 hr and restarting the engine without pressing pedal. Normally, engine will start w/o pumping for gas.

FUEL PUMP RELAY REVISIONS: since fuel relay model of my MB is very different from those available. (I think my car is hybrid 103 and 104 engine, I am looking for a wiring diagram and plan to revise my FPR, FPR usually runs for 1-2 secs and cut off is electronically controlled. My options are,
1. to try to run it through starter switch (terminal 50 or 15 from ignition switch)
2. or to add a timed control using the cold start system or thermoswitch
or a timer like those that control glow plugs in diesel engines.
ANY SUGGESTIONS?


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Old 11-17-2003, 08:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2003
Vehicle: 1988 300e
Location: kentucky
Posts: 54
[:D]NIce write up! Glad to see someone saving some money instead of throwing more and m...


[:D]NIce write up! Glad to see someone saving some money instead of throwing more and more money into a problem!!!! Good Job
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Old 11-18-2003, 04:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Date registered: Nov 2003
Vehicle: 92-93 MB E320
Location: philippines
Posts: 21
rough idle


now runs smoothly but have to correct minor vibrations which is probably engine mounting
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Old 06-03-2004, 03:25 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2004
Vehicle: MB W124 300 E 1986
Posts: 9
CO

"He first adjusted my CO by a hex wrench clockwise to increase the idle"
"adjusted CO idle with aircon and on wheel lock position"

What is the CO, IVC and where are they found?
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Old 06-03-2004, 07:57 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jan 2004
Vehicle: 2001 ML430
Location: Waukegan, Illinois
Posts: 148
RE: Low idle, rough idle, stalling, hot and cold start solved: E320/300

The CO(air/fuel mixture) adjustment, there is about a 1/2" hole on top of the air filter housing. This is where you put he hex wrench to make the adjusment.

The ICV(Idle Control Valve) is underneath the air filter cover. Once you take the cover off, it is a silver round looking item which has a (2) prong wire connector. It has (2) hoses attached and a round rubber strap holding it in place.

Hope this helps
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Old 06-04-2004, 01:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2004
Vehicle: MB W124 300 E 1986
Posts: 9
IVC?

Thanks for the CO explanation,

So it sounds like the IVC is the carburator. When you floor it it opens to let more air into the cylinders. Am I right?

"2. remove and check ICV if it closes tightly when current is applied, change if defective"

? How come the IVC closes if current is applied?

I understand how to adjust the CO perfectly now but can one tune the IVC?
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Old 10-14-2009, 06:54 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Vehicle: 1983 240D daily driver, 1987 560SEL sold, 1988 190E 2.3, 1989 190E 2.6 sold, 1995 E320, 2000 S500
Location: NY & NJ
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What is an OVP, please explain
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Old 10-14-2009, 07:01 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Vehicle: 1983 240D daily driver, 1987 560SEL sold, 1988 190E 2.3, 1989 190E 2.6 sold, 1995 E320, 2000 S500
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when you mentioned the mechanic adjusted the air/fuel mixture (CO) with the hex key, you said "...with aircon and on wheel lock position". Were you referring to having the aircondition on? and what do you mean by wheel lock position being on?
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Old 10-14-2009, 09:48 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Location: Philippines
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I think he was referring to the idle adjustment with the steering wheel in lock position thus loading up the engine because of the power PS pump.
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Old 10-17-2009, 05:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2009
Vehicle: 2005 E320 CDI, 1992 300TE, 1999 Porsche 911 Cabriolet
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Post

Idle control valve (ICV) is just a computer controlled throttle air bypass to control engine speed at idle. At idle, fuel injected cars have a closed throttle. If the hoses are cracked, air leaks in and mucks up both the idle and the mixture.

The ICV is a rotary valve that looks like a cylinder. The air passage goes through a perpendicular cylinder that has a drum in it with a Y shaped slot. A motor rotates that drum and the varying slot throttles the air. When idling, if you turn on the A/C, the computer notices the drop in idle and commands the motor, to rotate the drum, to allow more idle air, and return the idle back to 750 rpm.

All fuel injected gas engines have something like this although throttle by wire uses the main throttle valve instead of a secondary one.

I would also like to know what an OVP is.
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