Vehicle: 88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Location: REHOBOTH BEACH, DE
Posts: 1,970
Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxMatt
This is what I am aiming at - usable power. I am not the type, who boasts about the horsepower figures (apart from the times when I talk about my 8.2L Cadillac ). I want reliability and performance. I don't really care how much hp it makes. What interests me more is the acceleration.
Since a stock E36 AMG managed a 0-60 time of 7s, I am pretty sure a TT kit can get me below 6s. I honestly expect that with the right rubber and right diff for traction I can get low 5s.
Maciej
Low 5's no problem...
I've recorded 5.4 with 6lbs boost and no traction.
Also 14.2 - 99MPH quarter again with no traction and 6lbs boost and stock open 3.07 rear.
My guess now at about 9lbs boost with the 12" tread on the Kumho Ecsta XS, would be around 5 with low to mid 13 and 105+ trap speed.
Quote:
I am considering to replace the rear subframe for the V8-type with a V8-type rear diff mount (more durable), E500 driveshaft and V8 non-ASR axles. This setup could take the 7.3L V12 torque, so it should deal with 3.6 TT setup.
Do the engine first and see if the stock rear setup can handle it...
I like to go one step at a time as it usually is more cost effective.
Quote:
With H&R springs, Bilstein Sports and big sway bars I'd say I am quite there suspension-wise. Every last bit of rubber has already been replaced in the front. I am still waiting with the rear end, because I cannot locate a V8 subframe for normal money.
I will have a custom SS exhaust made by a very talented friend of mine.
I just can't wait for spring when I can push this project ahead!
One step at a time..your suspension should be more then adequate and at .5bar +/- the stock rear should hold up...
As I posted to another member, if you're not familiar with the engine condition best to pull the head inspect and change out the gasket.
Much easier to do before you plant it in the chassis !!
I have just received an answer to my e-mail from Mosselman.
I asked about the possible updates of the kit.
They say, they want to remake 3 of the classic systems:
- 2.3 - 2.5L 16V Cosworth engines found in the 190 models
- the bi-turbo system for M104 in line 6 24V
- the bi-turbo system for M103 12V
They are going to redesign the piping and intercooler.
The fuel upgrade will be an optional stand alone system.
It's not clear to me weather the kits will come standard with some sort of fuel enrichment with stand alone as an option?
__________________ Still seeking a right hand front seat from a two door 1993 - 1996 124. Electric, heated, creme biege leather, memory if possible, in very good condition. Please PM me if you know where I can get one.
Hey Guys, I've heard really good things about these rear mounted systems, just wanted to post this link and ask your opinions.. Maybe this would be an alternate?
Thanks, Austin
Quote:
"Mongillo Motors rear mount single turbo m119 SL500 making 417rwhp and 479rwtq at 7psi vs. Kleemann SL500 making 336rwhp and 331 rwtq at 7.5psi.
SL500 in question uses a STS single turbo kit with a 67mm turbo. Turbo car makes around 34hp per pound of boost, more than double of the Kleemann car. Not bashing Kleemann, just stating the facts. "
Vehicle: 88-300CE TWIN TURBO, 99-C43, 05-G55K, 71-280SL, 94-E320 CAB, 08 CLK63 BLACK SERIES
Location: REHOBOTH BEACH, DE
Posts: 1,970
I'm not too keen on the rear mounted turbo.
Usually put in the rear due to lack of space in the engine bay.
My concerns are the location, exposed to the road and weather.
Also question the efficiency as the turbo is best when very hot..what happens on a wet day with water constantly splashing on the turbo..
Eventually not bright and shiny more a rusty casting..
The temp of the intake air by the time it reaches the compressor inlet.
Wonder about potential leaks in the long charge piping among other things.
What about the oil lines, is a pump required to feed the turbo?
Same for cooling water !
Don't kid yourself..if rear mount is technically optimal, then the turbo would be located in the rear..
As far as comparing dyno numbers, it can only be done if the pulls were on the same dyno, same day, identical atmospheric conditions....
funny how so many people have different opinions, Most of the reading I had done was saying mostly the opposite of your statements... Confused more and more as I've never run a turbo system, just learning...
Here's what this site said:
Benefits of Remote-Mounted Turbochargers
Lower underhood temperatures. No need to worry about melting wires, hoses, or other engine components, as with a front-mounted turbo.
Cooler oil to the turbo. Cool oil is better for both the turbo and engine.
Lowest Intake Air Temps. Low IAT's equate to more horsepower per pound of boost than any other forced induction option. STS intake piping provides built-in intercooling. Add the optional intercooler, and IAT's drop even further.
Approximately 500F lower turbo temperatures. Eliminates the need for a turbo-timer, which allows the engine to run after the car is shut off in order to cool down the turbo and prevent oil and bearing damage.
Denser exhaust gasses drive the turbo turbine wheel more efficiently.
Turbo is exposed to ambient air rather than under-hood air. Allows for better cooling of turbo components.
Turbo is closer to the tail pipe outlet which provides a better pressure differential across the turbine wheel which promotes better flow across turbine.
I am curious about the oil system on these rear mounted turbos. Do they have an autonomic oil circuit? Because if they are running the same oil as the engine, then somehow it has to be fed back to the main circuit from below - needs another pump... or magic.
It says something about a dual-pump system for the oil, but I wouldn't know what kind.. looked like a small line runs to the turbo setup... again, I'm not very knowledgeable about this topic....
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