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Mercedes E220 M111 engine issue - please help

20K views 26 replies 8 participants last post by  Mike.K 
#1 ·
Hello Forum!,

First of all Merry Christmass to everyone here! I would like to write a thread because i have some minor issues. I recently bought a 1994 W124 E220 Coupe and everything is working, actually i just changed the radiator for a brand new one but anyway i had this problem now for a few days and i dont know were to go from thats why i would like some advice. The problem is the following :

When the car is started fully cold then the revs drop then go back up and sometimes when the revs drop it also stalls, BUT when it reaches about roughly 45-50 'C then its all normall again and it goes and idles good. Is this the idle motor or the cold start valve or if not that what else ?

Anywy thank you in advance for your time.

regards, Les
 
#4 ·
Thanks for your info i really wanna hear as many opinions as possible.
if i take off the black cover at the front can i see any faults with the wiring? i was also told on a local forum the coolant temp sender could also do funny things, is that true like this?
 
#6 ·
i have done all that, i cleaned the air flow meter i cleaned everything with throttle body cleaner so yeah this really happened after i changed the radiator i drained the water and when i put back everything this started to happen anyway i would appriciate any more thoughts
 
#8 ·
I got the same motor with you. Your description sounds like a binding butterfly crank.
After you clean your ISA/ISC, you might try to use some sort of good-grade Electronic Lubircant at the crankshaft (two sides). Afterthat, press your speed paddle several time for a better lube effects. Benz redesigned the internal needle bearing of the ISA motor crankshaft. When you got your ISA "too clean", you got negative effect internally.
To cap, clean and lube ISA. Reset your HFM. Before ignition, paddle the speed several time first. You could feel the difference. (BTW, don't try to swap/buy a new ISC so quickly)
 
#9 ·
Hello Everyone!

Happy New Year to Everyone on here!!!

Anyway guys, so here is go i have a few things fixed, i had to re-wire the : Air flow meter cable, the injector cables, the sensor cables on the front and the cable that comes from the coil because the wires were all bad as hell in some places i thing it shorted out because one of my fuses blew but after i was touching the cables, but could that hurt the ECU? because when the car is cold, it still is acting up, what it does is that when its idiling it revs up then back down it holds it then it wants to die the revs drop and then it goes back up then down again the engine even shakes then it revs back up BUT when i drive it its all perfect especially when it warms up everything is smooth and good and you wont tell that its got any issue, could this be the following ? :

Crank angle sensor
Coolant sensor
Oxy. Sensor

OR anything you can think of that might help i would appriciate it

Thank you

regards, Les
 
#13 ·
Thanks for that! and how would that effect the engine managment? i have a 190E 1992 and in that its the same just over 14 volts and the engine is running perfect ?

I want to really solve this asap because this is causing me big headache :surrender: :surrender:
 
#14 ·
These engines are very sensitive to electrical fluctuations. Voltage is one thing amperage another and if you measured both closely you would find a difference between the two cars. Do these cars have OVPs? Are they in good shape?

My 400E has begun to give me your same symptoms, I bought it 3 months ago with the voltage at 14.38 steady and thought nothing of it. I too had to remake my wiring harness but still had a few electrical bugs. With the onset of worse symptoms I'm sure of the problem being the Volatage reg since I've run into it before.
 
#15 ·
I see what you mean, anyway but my car today proved that while cold its running lean so could that be still the same thing ? i had an older Mercedes person have a look and he said its running lean and while cold it hasnt got the right mixture and thats why it shakes then revs back up then goes back down i spoke to him about this and he said the regulator is all good, im really puzzled still, i have a diagnostic tool on its way BUT its still weeks till it gets here and i want to see an end to this asap...

:surrender:
 
#17 ·
Hello Guys,

Thanks for that thread on how to make the tool, i wish i saw it earlier! so today we used the tester i have a 16 pin socket, and on it have the following pins to test : 6,7,8,10 and on the 6 i had 4 blinks and same on the 8 tester i had 4 blinks, i dont have any codes but on the net i found one for the 8 that the 4 blinks mean : Load Sensor in EAL/AKR control modul faulty, but my question is that is that correct for that ? and what does the fault mean for tester 6 ? can anyone please help?

I also would like to ask that the EGR Valve were abouts is it on a 1994 Merc W124 E220 ? M111 engine ?

Thanks in advance
 
#19 ·
im sorry maybe its been missunderstood but my car is a W124 E220 Coupe M111 engine, and thats what i tested thats the car that i have the problem with...i would really look forward to see some oppinions on the code i got, pin 6 -4 blinks pin 8 - 4 blinks ?
 
#21 ·
- You need to be reading only PIN 8 for engine related stuff PIN 6 is for Airbag.
- Error code 4 means faulty Air Mass Sensor.
- I think only M111.961 has EGR valve, M111.960 does not have one.

I have attached code scanner pdf, you can look up HFM (104 & 111) analog error codes in the pdf.

If you can build a K-Line interface search form 'HFM Scanner' here, you can use computer to get complete info on your M111 or M104 engines with live data.
 

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#22 ·
Really thank you for reply, i greatly appriciate it! I will buy a new one of that and it hopefully fixes it all, it really is so easy to make that tool and it takes a lot of preassure off your mind when you know what to do ;)

Thanks again, have a good weekend!
 
#26 ·
Hi Reuben,
I did, we re-wired everything, then it still wasnt running good while cold, i replaced the main temp sensor, and still no good, so i built the diagnostic tool and on pin 8 it blinked 4 which means the AFM/MAF is faulty, apparently the wire from the MAF/AFM was actually burnt right up to the over voltage relay, that was why i checked all the cables, so i have a new MAF/AFM ordered and i hope it will be good,..knock on wood!


regards, Les
 
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