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looking to buy a 300E

1K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  Logan2224 
#1 ·
Hi guys,

I've come across a 1993 300E that I'm considering buying. It looks to be in beautiful condition, and with only 34,000 miles on it!!!!!
I'm just looking for tips and things to look for before I make the trip to see it.

If I do buy it, I'll be trading in a 2002 Volvo C70. Looking forward to making the transition from a newer car to an older Mercedes.

Thanks in advance for the help.
 
#2 ·
Engine wiring harness insulation on the wires, A/C Evaporator, Ball joints, flex discs, bulb out idicator/headlight relay, aux fan/s and cooling system (radiator, expansion tank, water pump, viscous fan and again aux fan/s).

At that age (same year as mine) plastic gets brittle and those things (previous paragraph) can get spendy to replace. The Evap replacement can be pretty cheap if you do it your self (look up ps2cho's thread on that) but around 2k if you have to have it done due to a leak for A/C.

Good Luck.
 
#4 ·
#5 ·
While it may or may not be worth it to you to restore such a car,
don't let the low miles trick you into thinking it won't need almost the same restore as if it had 100K more miles.

Me? I'd consider such a car seriously if it could be proven to my satisfaction to have been well cared for and the miles match receipts.
 
#7 ·
I.M.H.O.

I would jump at it.

Try and ascertain whether or not the wiring harness has been changed. If it hasn't been changed deduct $ 1,000.00 off the asking price.
A P.P.I. is a must from a M.B. techo who knows these models. The P.P.I. will tell you if the harness has been changed or not. Also if the head gasket and tranny have any issues.

With only 34K miles up the car should drive like new.

As mentioned the rubber and vacuum tubes disintegrate with age and will probably require looking at - in the fullness of time and service. Rubber includes tyres. The tyres have date stamps. Check them out and if they are over 5 years old demand more dollars off to have these replaced. (replace tyres yourself with good ones - don't get a dealer to put el-cheapos on)

The most important thing is that the bodywork has never been involved in a prang and rust free and the interior is like new. With a few dollars spent on a car like this and proper ongoing maintenance it will sure to last much longer than buying an off the shelf Japanese white good.
 
#8 ·
Alright guys thanks a lot for the tips! I've written everything down, and printed out that buyers guide.
The salesman told me that the car has already had a pre purchase inspection done by another person looking to buy the car, but they couldn't get the money together.
So I'm gonna call the mercedes specialist that did the inspection after the holiday. The salesman also said he'd be sending me the report from the inspection.

He said he couldn't find any maintenance records with the car, that's the only red flag so far. But with this list of things to look for, I feel pretty confident that I will be able to tell if the car has been cared for or not.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Find out who the original owner/owners were and get in touch with them. How much is the dealer wanting for the car?

THIS IS IMPORTANT - Regardless of the inspection report, if the upper/lower wiring harness haven't been replaced and the electronic throttle actuator, you need a hefty discount. This has been mentioned by other posters.

During the period between 93 - early 1997, ALL Mercedes products had a soy based material as insulation on the U/L harness and internal wiring on the ETA. This insulation material fails first by cracking, then just turning into powder. This is a very well documented problem. It isn't a matter of "if" these items are going to fail it is "when" are they going to fail. Everyone of them out there that is original is living on borrowed time.

Many MB dealers replaced these items at the insistance of "good customers" and more or less did it as a good will gesture. These three items will just about eat every dime of 20 $100 dollar bills.

Another known item that's been mentioned is the AC evaporator. Again, a very well documented weak point/problem. About a $300 part. However, it is buried in the dash in a manner that would make one think it sat there while the car was built around it. Book labor for the r/r is in excess of 12-14 hrs. There are products out there that can sucessfully solve the problem of a leaking evap and dealers use them. Again, this is heavy leverage on your side of the paper work.

None of the comments being made are intended, in my opinion, to have you walk away from this car. Quite the opposite really. Just keep your eyes wide open and your check book closed until you are satisfied with what is before you. It is your money and knowledge is powerful.

Good Luck on this endeavor.

Jayare
 
#10 ·
Great info. I have no doubt I can strike a deal.
The dealer is wanting $8,000, which I already know is way too much.

I have a great outline to take with me, with all the possible problem areas you all have mentioned and I feel very prepared and confident that I will be able to make an intelligent and well informed purchase of this car. And I'm ok with walking away if I'm not sure that it is in as good of shape as it looks.

I may only be 20 years old, but I know what I'm doing haha.

Thanks again guys, hopefully there will be a new W124 owner among you this week!
 
#11 ·
Ugh!!! Screw car dealerships.

W124 not happening for me.

The salesman said he knows that it's overpriced, but not willing to come down at all, and also said that they don't think they have a market for my Volvo that I would be trading in.

Thanks for the hospitality guys, I did get lots of great info that I'll keep with me. Hopefully I'll be back at some point.
 
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