W124 200TE Auto - Vibration, Heater & Radiator questions

[creamy]

Hi,

I've just picked up a '91 200TE Auto Estate (I believe the 200TE was not available in many countries, but there are certainly a few in the UK).

As I paid little (absolutely nothing, in fact) for it, I am happy to spend a bit on it to tidy it up a bit. The bodywork is good for its age (normal front wing stuff) and at 170k I hope it's got a bit of life left. I would like some advice from members regarding a couple of problems with it:

1) Vibration - between 60 - 90 MPH there is some vibration which does not appear to be the front wheels, although I can feel it a bit through the steering. I have checked tyre pressures, had all wheels balanced and tracking adjusted. I have also just changed the front propshaft coupling as this was completely shot, and wouldn't have helped things. Each of these actions has improved things, but the vibration is still there. Before I go back to have the wheel balance double-checked, does anybody have any other ideas?

2) Heater - I can't get hot air from the heater. I've seen lots of discussion about the duo-valves failing and ONLY getting hot air, but not my symptoms. Checking for power, I see 13.5v on the duo-valve centre connector, but nothing on the other 2, irrespective of the heater controls. The auxiliary pump has 13.5v on the +ve connector, but apparently no earthing on the other. Connecting directly to the battery has confirmed that the pump works. I'm guessing that if the pump worked full-time, then I would get continuous hot air from the heater? All fuses appear to be OK (and there's power at the valves and pump), so should I be looking at a controller circuit, or maybe simply an earthing lead somewhere?

3) Radiator - Although only 2 years old, the radiator has a leak at the top of the matrix. Previous owner put radiator sealant in which fixed the problem briefly, but it continues to blow. It could simply be that the radiator is a duffer, but does anybody have any advice? I have not pressure-tested the system yet, but with the cap off, it does not appear to blowing from the engine - no signs of oil/water mix anywhere. I don't want to splash out on a new radiator if it's going to blow again.

Any help with these would be appreciated.

I'm still undecided whether to keep it or sell it on (and possibly buy a newer one with lower mileage, maybe diesel) - any thoughts / advice?

Thanks,

Creamy

[panzerbenz]

Originally Posted by creamy

Hi,

I've just picked up a '91 200TE Auto Estate (I believe the 200TE was not available in many countries, but there are certainly a few in the UK).

As I paid little (absolutely nothing, in fact) for it, I am happy to spend a bit on it to tidy it up a bit. The bodywork is good for its age (normal front wing stuff) and at 170k I hope it's got a bit of life left. I would like some advice from members regarding a couple of problems with it:

1) Vibration -

I TOO HAVE A 91 200TE BOUGHT IN STUTGART. THE DOGZ BOLLOX!

I HAVE 2013 KM ON THE CLOCK AND I TOO HAVE VIBRATIONS... I WILL CHANGE THE SILENT BLOCKS ON THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION LATER THIS YEAR. EASY AND AFFORDABLE. IN MY CASE I'M QUITE SURE THAT THEY HAVE LOST THEIR OIL, AND THE RUBBER HAS HARDEN. THE RESULT IS THAT THEY ARE NOT DOING THEIR JOB. ON THESE MODELS THE SILENT BLOCKS ARE A MIX OF 2 TECHS: 1/ RUBBER 2/ OIL BATH. TO TEST THEM, NUDGE THE ENGINE LATERALLY BY HAND, IF THE ENTIRE CAR MOVES, YOU NEED TO CHANGE THEM.

2) Heater -

ONE IMPORTANT THING YOU SHOULD KNOW, HOT AIR NEVER GETS THROUGH THE MIDDLE OF CONSOLE AIR OUTPUT... THIS IS SOLELY FOR COLD AIR. THAT'S THE WAY IT HAS BEEN DESIGNED! IN ONLY COME TROUGH THE SIDES AND UNDERNEATH IN THE FOOT WELL.

CAN'T ANSWER THE RAD QUESTION..

Any help with these would be appreciated.

I'm still undecided whether to keep it or sell it on (and possibly buy a newer one with lower mileage, maybe diesel) - any thoughts / advice?

A DIESEL ONE WOULD BE GREAT, THE 250 IS PERFECT. LOOK FOR A 1995/1996, BUT NOT THE NEW MODEL, GO FOR THE THE FACELIFT ONE. THEY STOPPED MAKING THEM IN 1996. THE NEWER ONES HAVE A COMPUTER RUNNING THE ENGINE, AND YOU DON'T WANT THAT...

TO CHECK THE MILEAGE, LOOK FOR THE TALE TELL SIGNS OF WEAR AND TEAR ON THE DRIVER'S SEAT. IF IT WORN OUT AT THE POINT OF FRICTION ON THE DOOR SIDE, THIS CAR IS ABOVE 200 KKM.

ON W124, THE WEAKNESS (SO TO SPEAK, AS IT IS STILL FAR MORE RELIABLE THAN ANY OTHER CAR) IS THE DISTRIBUTION CHAIN. LOOK FOR MODELS WITH A DOUBLE CHAIN... YOUR'S SHOULD HAVE ONE, OPEN THE OIL SCREW LEAD AND SEE IF THE CHAIN IS SINGLE OR DOUBLE... A DISTRIB CHAIN FAILURE IS THE WORSE THING THAT CAN HAPPEN TO YOU... OTHERWISE, IF YOU DO YOUR OIL CHANGE EVERY 6000 MILES, CHANGE THE OIL FILTER EVERY 12 000.

IF YOU NEED TO CHANGE THE EXHAUST CAT CONVERTER, THERE'S A GERMAN COMPANY THAT MAKES VERY RELIABLE AND CHEAP AFTERMARKET. I HAVE ONE, I PAID 250€.

LUCKY MAN! YOU HAVE THE BEST CAR EVER MADE! AFTER THIS MODEL IT IS ALL DOWNHILL FOR MERC..

ANY HELP, JUST ASK..

GOOD LUCK

PANZER BENZ!

Thanks,

Creamy

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