Thanks! Picture worths a thousand words. Will give it a try next time.

 

lol same here... i am beginning to think your copying me haha...

 

Still want to be the "better". BTW, all my stock speakers seem to be working fine.

 

Just to clarify, step 4 calls for removal of bolts holding the throttle to clean it, do we also need to remove the springs and lever (in picture #4, it shows the springs are still attached) or can we just leave it attached since there is enough slack to move it out and clean it? TIA

 

The springs, lever, and a valve have to be removed to clean it. The picture does NOT show the spring as it is still in the chassis, however the bolt IS attached to the throttle body. I also did not detach the cables to the wiring harness since there was enough slack to pull it out.

 

cleaning the throttle body

Big thanks, Racing Maven:thumbsup:
I'll be doing that as soon as I have some time.
Saludos
Fernandez

 

Nice! I've done this.

Just a note: inspect some of the areas around the black box, and other mechanical attachments. sometimes a small crack in the plastic areas, and a dry o-ring causes lag in the operation of the delivery system. Underneath the little black box, I found a few small broken pieces(Dealer parts, I couldn't find anything available online).

 

Thanks for this post! Very informative! Did you have to replace the gasket under the throttle body?

 

So what would be the benefits from doing this?

 

Many thanks! I was wondering if the TB could be removed without pulling the manifold itself. Now to attack the dreaded biodegradable wiring issue. (Hoping the internal wiring isn't kaput...)

 

Removing the Throttle actuator on a car with an original wiring harness could cause a biodegradable wiring harness problem. I found this out the hard way. The isulation in the cable from the wiring harness connection to the throttle actuator is the same crappy stuff that the 93 to ~97 cars had in the main harness. If you have a car from the mid 90s and the original wiring harness be careful doing this or you could be out big bucks.

Greg

 

This was very helpful, thank you! Anyone completing this project might deeply consider cleaning the EGR tube while the throttle body is off. Cleaning the tube will also resolve code #5 in port #3 of the w-124.

I had this code show up on my 1995 E320 (w-124). Research on this and other forums suggested it was most likely a clogged EGR tube. This indeed was the case.

Remove the tube to clean is quite easy if the throttle body is removed first.

Once this is off, remove the EGR tube:
1) disconnect the nut at the EGR valve (17 mm open end wrench, I think)
2) detach the small hanger attached to the oil filter housing (5mm alan nut with long extension on ratchet)
3) disconnect tube from plenum - the portion of the intake upon which the throttle body sits (two 10 mm hex bolts)

I was unable to remove the tube from the engine compartment because it was stuck in the EGR tube. Fortunately, with the throttle body off, I could move it around enough to stick a small flat head screw driver into the tube and scrape out the carbon deposits. Lots of chunks came out and this was sufficient to fully unclog the tube without going through the trouble of soaking it with chemicals or trying to ram a speedometer cable through it.

Replace gaskets for both the throttle body and the EGR tube.

This resolved the engine light and code issue.