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Keyless Entry

1K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  dakota 
#1 ·
Hello all... I wanted to share this as I have heard a few people wanting to do this to their cars...

I was just solicited by a man that says he has a plug and play keyless entry system for our W124's (as well as 126's 107's 201's and early 202's)

It plugs into the harness for the trunk lock actuator, and the transmitter hides under the package tray. Also comes with a MB 'style' flip key (uncut)

He did not have a key to show me but I asked him to come back and show me later. He says it gets a range of 200 feet, and can also hook up to make the lights flash if you want to too...


his web address is mbkeylessentry.com

I am NOT endorsing this, as I have not used it, but thought it was a pretty cool idea so I thought I'd share

BRIAN
 
#2 ·
My Viper alarm has keyless entry. So, depends on the cost of both products as to which is the better deal.
 
#3 ·
I just installed one of his systems in my coupe. It was a pretty easy installation. Plug and play. No car wires are spliced. The whole installation is done in the trunk - nothing under the dash. Works as advertised. Factory alarm remains functional. I'm happy with the installation.
 
#5 ·
Here are a few notes on my installation of the Keyless Entry. It really is pretty straight forward once you understand what you have to do.

I would think that your sedan would be the same as my coupe for installation. It is all done in the trunk. You must remove the vertical plastic lining that is at the aft, lower bulkhead of the trunk - this is done by simply removing 8 "scrivets" (the two-piece plastic expanding fasteners). This exposes the rear lock actuator. There is a 3-pin electrical plug that goes to this actuator that you unplug. You then pull this wire back out of the rear bulkhead, and run it back toward the right hinge area (where the radio amp is). One of the most difficult parts that I had was removing this plug from the actuator. There are a couple of 8mm nuts to loosen to free the actuator to get a liitle more room (you don't actually remove the actuator). The trick I found was to stick a small probe vertically down thru one of the scrivet holes to get the connector release catch.

He says you don't have to take the right side fiber lining out but I did and I think it made it easier to route the wires. I actually just pulled the aft most end out - I didn't disconnect it from the forward bulkhead lining.

You then pop the trunk light (at the forward upper lip of the trunk) out to expose its wires. You will use the hot (red) wire for the +12v.

The little control box is then mounted in the trunk, up under about where the third brake light assy is. Just a few inches forward of the trunk lamp assy. It's mounted just using a wire tie. It fits (kinda) up into one of the little cutouts. Was a bit difficult for me 'cuz of my size. Most people shouldn't have a problem.

The rest of the installation is just routing the wires from the little control unit. The upper roof area of the forward part of the trunk (under the package shelf) is double sheet metal and has some access holes. Use a coat hanger to pull the wires through this area. Note: you actually route these wires first, before you install the black box. Get the wires all routed, then plug the big flat connector into the black box, then mount the box.

As mentioned, the power comes from the trunk light assy, a ground is mounted over by the hinge (I drilled one hole in the sheet metal of the package shelf/trunk area near the right side speaker for this). Then there are the wires that go to a 3-pin plug which plugs into the aforementioned 3-pin from the actuator (now down below the radio amp, or below the right hinge). The final wire goes to pin #6 of the right tail light connector. I took the easy way and just used a 'wire-tap' into the #6 wire. You could solder it for a better connection, which I may eventually do.

Then you just replace the side lining and the aft bulkhead. Took about two hours total. Probably would take less than 30 minutes the second time around.

Hope this helps.

Steve
1992 300CE Sportline
 
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