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Old 07-19-2007, 04:32 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2007
Vehicle: 1982 300D Turbo
Location: Gainesville, Georgia
Posts: 52
Just bought my first 300E

After having driven w123 diesels for the past year and a half and loving the experience, I sold a 1995 toyota camry on its way out and bought an '88 300E. So I am officially all Mercedes! ('82 300D Turbo and '88 300E)

This "new" car is extremely clean inside and out. It has 140k miles. The only blemish inside is an 1/4" dia. ink stain on the passenger seat, No rips, tears, missing trim etc.
On the outside, the appearance is great. I need to replace the fog lamp covers as one of them is cracked, as well as the plastic antenna cowling. Got a set of Michelins with 50% wear left. Engine runs well (could stand a slightly smoother idle) Tranny shifts smoothly.

The car was owned by a single lady since new then traded in to Atlanta Classic Cars and bought by the used car lot from whom I bought the car. I paid $3200 out the door.

I now want to do a couple of things to get the car running in tip top shape.

I plan on doing the following:
Spark plugs
Wires
Distributor Cap
Dist. Rotor
AT Fluid & Filter Change
Coolant flush and refill
Valve Cover Gasket
Fuel Filter Change

Can anyone recommend anything else that I can do that will give me a lot of bang for the buck?

On my w123 Diesel, I did a valve adjustment which helped, but it seems like I read somewhere a w124 300E engine's valves cannot be adjusted. Is this true? I haven't had a chance to buy a Hayne's manual,etc, so I still have quite a bit to learn about w124 gassers.
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'88 300E (White) - 140,000 miles
'82 300D Turbo (Hellelfinbein) - 337,000 miles (My daily driver @ 70mi/day )
'79 300TD (Sky Blue) - 279,00 miles (SOLD )
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Old 07-19-2007, 06:12 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2005
Vehicle: 86 190E 2.3 16V, 90 300CE, 93 400E, 02 Olds Aurora
Location: Seminole, FL
Posts: 1,389
While your at it, drain the power steering fluid with turkey baster, change the PS filter and refill. That way, all your fulids an filters will be up to date. Change the air filter as well.. Make sure you get non-resistor plugs as the new wires will be resistor type. Good Luck with the car and welcome to this area of the forum.

Good Luck,

Jayare
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Old 07-19-2007, 01:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2004
Vehicle: 1988 300TE 1989 300SE
Location: salt lake city
Posts: 1,519
I found that replacing the engine mounts made a huge difference. If you shake at idle do that one for sure.
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1988 300TE, 251,000 miles
1989 300SE, 89,000 miles
2000 E320 4matic wagon, 115k miles
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Old 07-19-2007, 07:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jan 2006
Vehicle: 88 260E, 88 300E x 2, 88 300TE x 2
Location: Just west of Philly
Posts: 1,453
I have several 88s. Great cars. You are correct, the valve lash is NOT adjustable. What color interior on yours? The next 88 i get (I'm looking) will be a southern or southwestern car. All the rust belt cars have nasty looking subframes or cancer around the jack tubes. No sense sinking money into a car with those problems!
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Old 07-20-2007, 02:26 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Date registered: Feb 2007
Vehicle: 1982 300D Turbo
Location: Gainesville, Georgia
Posts: 52
My 300E has a white exterior with grey interior. Fortunately, it has been in the Atlanta area all its life, so rust is not an issue.

By the way, thanks for the tips, everyone!

Last edited by BenzFlieger : 07-20-2007 at 06:05 AM.
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