Vehicle: '93 300E, '83 240D, '78 240D, Toy pickup, BMW R1100S, Yamaha TW200
Location: Dayton
Posts: 73
Water Pump Coolant Line
I'm having trouble getting the COOLANT PIPE off the rear of the water pump as I am in the process of replacing the water pump. The coolant line connects to the rear/top of the water pump via the flange listed as "3a" in the diagram.
The hex bolts take a 5mm allen key. I seem to have slightly rounded the inside of the left bolt. DAMM!!!! So now, in order to gain better access to the flange/bolts, I seem to need to remove the intake resonance manifold which requires taking off the fuel rail. DAMM!!!!! I may even have to drill out the bolt. DAMM!!!!
In researching the water pump replacement instructions, I have not even seen this coolant line mentioned. Is my car special? Has anyone had experience taking these bolts out? If so, how did you do it and what trouble did you have?
from ALLDATA:
Remove top part of resonance intake manifold.
Drain coolant at crankcase.
Unbolt coolant pipe (3) at coolant pump and at bottom part of resonance intake manifold. NOTE: Replace O-rings (3a) and (4a) at coolant pump and at heat exchanger.
Pour in coolant.
Check cooling system for leaks.
Install top part of resonance intake manifold (19).
Vehicle: '93 300E, '83 240D, '78 240D, Toy pickup, BMW R1100S, Yamaha TW200
Location: Dayton
Posts: 73
OK, so I had to remove the fuel rail and res manifold, not really a hard job, but time consuming, and added $$ for new injector o-rings and manifold gaskets. I replaced the rear coolant line insert hex bolts with standard hex bolts. I'm hoping that in the future, if I ever have to pull the pump again, I won;t have to remove the manifold...
Vehicle: '93 300E, '83 240D, '78 240D, Toy pickup, BMW R1100S, Yamaha TW200
Location: Dayton
Posts: 73
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Melmaan
Is this a 300E with 2.6?
3.2L .
It's my understanding that later serial # engines (M104's) use a water pump without the rear coolant line, (which is why I had to pull the maniflod).
All in all, an easy job with no left over bolts or nuts. The hardest thing was removing the viscous fan clutch with my homemade tool. All pulleys should be able to be locked via a simple drif, like a 16p nail...
I am having the reverse problem. My new water pump came with the port for the line to the oil cooler but My E320 has no oil cooler. And the pump came with no blocking plate. The dealer says to tap in a freeze plug but that means pulling the pump back off. No one so far seems to have a blocking pplate for that application.
I made a blocking plate out of 1/8 steel last night while waiting to contact the dealer. I am inclined to try that.
Vehicle: '93 300E, '83 240D, '78 240D, Toy pickup, BMW R1100S, Yamaha TW200
Location: Dayton
Posts: 73
Howdy neighbor, did you buy your pump at Bob Ross? I think there are 2 different pumps based on the M104 engine serial #. I have an early # and the rear port for the oil cooler line. I have not seen the other pump, but I'd expect that it would not have the port for the line. I think the freeze plug may be for something else, but I'm not sure. The dealer where I bought my pump (bob ross) asked me if I needed the plug. Having already removed my old pump, I knew I did not need a plug. BTW, are you doing this replacement yourself? If you need any help, let me know...
I got it at Bob Ross alright. They took my engine number and I still got one with the rear port. My old pump was still on the car so I didn't think twice about checking for the extra port. Oh well. I put the pump in the car and made a blocking plate resembling the flange for your oil cooler line. Bolted it up last night and it is holding water. I'm just not thrilled about introducing another potential point of failure whether it be a freeze plug or a blocking plate. Maybe tonight I won't run out of time and can button the car up and shake it down. Thanks for the offer to help! All that's left to finish are the thermostat and fan.
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