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Old 08-28-2007, 09:28 AM   #21 (permalink)
GDC
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Date registered: Mar 2006
Vehicle: 1994 E320, 1993 300E
Location: South Central PA
Posts: 239
Thanks barry_s_u

This is the procedure I was using, but i don't get any pulses, only a steady light. My car does not have a check engine light. The local radio shack did not have any LED's with a built in resistor, so I put a 500 ohm resistor on the positive side of the LED to compensate. Otherwise my reader looks like the image in the link you posted.

any additional insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Greg
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Old 09-02-2007, 07:02 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2002
Vehicle: 300SD, 300E, SLK230
Location: Jefferson, MD
Posts: 80
You'll get a steady light if you accidentally swap the ground lead and the probe. Make sure you have it connected properly and try again.

Photos show the connector with my test box probes attached (pin 1 is ground and I have a clip on the battery for the +12 lead.

I'm pointing to the location of the 16 pin diagnostic connector next to the battery.

My diagnostic box is sitting on top of the engine. I strongly urge you to pull the engine codes as a way to point to the real problem you car is having.
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1993 300E 3.2
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Old 09-04-2007, 09:00 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Date registered: Aug 2002
Vehicle: 300SD, 300E, SLK230
Location: Jefferson, MD
Posts: 80
In addition to changing the Mass Airflow Sensor, prior to doing this, I also changed out the Positive battery cable assembly. I believe that the main engine wiring harness was changed out in 1996, but the positive battery cable was not. This was indicated by a 1996 manufacturing date on the main wiring harness, and a lot of bad wires visible on the positive battery cable. This cable also has connections to one or both crank-position sensors and some other engine management systems. After replacing that cable, the problem was somewhat better (the engine did not immediately shut down after running for a second) but the problem was still obviously there.

I thought it best to include this piece of information since it tells the whole story about this problem in my 93 300E. I have photos showing all the cracks in the insulation on the wires, but they look much like others posted in the forums.

Next job to tackle is the oil leaks and the dreaded head gasket replacement. Anyone out there do the head gasket themselves? I've replaced the head gasket on my 1973 International Harvester Cub Lo-Boy model 185, but the head itself is pretty small and light. Much different from the 90+ pound assembly I'd be removing to replace the head gasket on the 300E.
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