Got the drawings, Thank you very much. What was still interfering?
On the M103, when you lower the motor, it's a tight fit with the turbo to intercooler hoses.
Suggest new motor mounts while the engine is up...inexpensive investment at this time.
Just remembered another minor problem.
When fitting the intercooler there was an interference with the sway bar bracket...had to do some mods in this area.
System is great...only deficiences are in the electronic control and mismatch and inteference fit with some of the parts !!!
On the M103, when you lower the motor, it's a tight fit with the turbo to intercooler hoses.
Suggest new motor mounts while the engine is up...inexpensive investment at this time.
Just remembered another minor problem.
When fitting the intercooler there was an interference with the sway bar bracket...had to do some mods in this area.
System is great...only deficiences are in the electronic control and mismatch and inteference fit with some of the parts !!!
Thanks for the suggestions.
When I bought the car at the beginning of this year, I took it to the dealer for the complete checkup/tuneup. They installed new motor and trani mounts. So no worries there.
I ran into another issue. The brackets for the alternator. I guess there are W124s without the air pump and MB has special smaller brackets for that. I thought it would come with the kit but they didn't. Spoke with John Pearson in UK and he send me a dealer diagram with the part numbers. Ordered them today.
Will run into an issue with the bumper. We are installing a 500e wide AMG Gen II fron bumper, and the ducts for the intercooler is right in the middle of the foglight. Will have to get creative to:
1. iether reroute the duct and scoop the air else where
or
2. loose 1 foglight (not preferred)
Perfect example of looks vs. performance dilema.
UPDATES:
Engine is raised, oil pan is pulled. Looking for the right tools to tap it. While engine is raised will mount turboes and elboes. Also connect the oil feed line.
We mounted the exhast manifolds while the head was off.
Question:
If I read the instructions correctly, they want the meetering unit with MAS to be installed above the air filter box. Later in the instructions they talk about cutting the wires to bypass the MAS.
Did I read it correctly? We install MAS meetering unit but not use it or connect the harness to it?
Question:
If I read the instructions correctly, they want the meetering unit with MAS to be installed above the air filter box. Later in the instructions they talk about cutting the wires to bypass the MAS.
Did I read it correctly? We install MAS meetering unit but not use it or connect the harness to it?
I would seriously consider the value of installing the supplied piggy back system.
Realizing the M103 and M104 use different injection and stock control the fuel enrichment is still provided by an additional injector.
Two on the M103 and one on the M104.
We installed everything supplied from the piggyback controller to the Hobbs switches, wiring into the stock system which took some time.
End result was failure of the non adjustable supplied electronics not only to enrich under boost, but to hold the AFR at a steady level.
It jumped around at Lambda +.
My installer spoke with TurboTechnics who refered him to a UK shop that maintained some of the original installs.
Hughes of Beaconsfield was no help.
I don't have the contact info for this shop, but they have been replacing the supplied electronics with an ERL Aquamist potentiometer adjustable unit.
I did some research and it was a USA dealer for ERL Aquamist who builds race Saabs who recommended the Split Second unit.
Difference is that ERL has pots that set AFR every 1000 RPM and Split Second is 3D mappable via software and a laptop.
Went with the Split second and was able to set at .85 Lambda / 12.5 AFR throughout the boost range.
I have driven about 400 miles since the install in ambient temps of 35 degree C + running 93 Octane 10% ethanol fuel with no detonation or pinging.
This includes many very hard full throttle runs to make final mods to the intake system.
Logic is that the supplied injector is controlled by a discrete piggy back control that really does not need to interface with the stock engine/fuel management.
The Split Second unit uses a clean speed signal from the tach circuit and reads via a tubing connection the manifold pressure with its internal MAP sensor.
Speed increases, it sees change in manifold pressure and it fires/pulses the additional injector(s) at the preset rate to maintain 12.5 AFR through the range.
No need to retard timing as the TT unit does, and not necessary to "trick" the stock control into thinking it needs to do something that it shouldn't.
You can save labor and frustration by deciding which direction you want to go in before you install the supplied electronics.
Why you would bypass the MAS doesn't make sense as it would drastically change the characteristics of the stock engine/fuel management system.
Even though it might not strictly be necessary I decided to lower the compression anyway. I got a garage to skim 1.5mm from the pistons.
I want to run the Split Second AIC1 but need to find someone who will ship to the UK. Also which AIC1 do I need?
Even though it might not strictly be necessary I decided to lower the compression anyway. I got a garage to skim 1.5mm from the pistons.
I want to run the Split Second AIC1 but need to find someone who will ship to the UK.
Cap'n
You want to use the AIC1-A1L if you are using one additional injector.
I used the AIC1-A2L because the M103 uses two injectors.
You can order direct from Split Second and they should be able to ship to the U.K. from California.
Email or call Split Second direct and contact "Mark", he's sort of the "no personality" type, but he knows the product and application.
When we set up the software he told us a "tuner trick" is to make the engine setting in the R4 file, 3 cylinder 2 stroke instead of 6 cylinder 4 stroke.
This doubles the pulse of the injector firing.
Small package a few pounds, I would think UPS, DHL or FedEx shipping cost to be around $70.00 to you..
It really gives precision control and makes power !!!
About 90% done. Waiting on the European brackets for the alternator.
MAJOR SUGGESTION:
Install the exhaust manifold, turboes, and elboes onto the head while it's off the crank case and then drop the head in after the oil presser switch and oil pan are done. It will make a world of the difference in the ease of installation.
Had to create a custom 22mm wrench, will post the picture later. This was the ONLY way, at least for us, to tighten the oil drain pipes at the turboes.
ISSUES:
One of the fuel enrichment parts was wrong. The T splitter had only 2 correct end fittings, will get at a local store, it looks like a pretty standard part. Will post the pic for this as well.
About 90% done. Waiting on the European brackets for the alternator.
MAJOR SUGGESTION:
Install the exhaust manifold, turboes, and elboes onto the head while it's off the crank case and then drop the head in after the oil presser switch and oil pan are done. It will make a world of the difference in the ease of installation.
Had to create a custom 22mm wrench, will post the picture later. This was the ONLY way, at least for us, to tighten the oil drain pipes at the turboes.
Forgot about that similar problem on the M103, makes it easy to kink the line !!!
Quote:
ISSUES:
One of the fuel enrichment parts was wrong. The T splitter had only 2 correct end fittings, will get at a local store, it looks like a pretty standard part. Will post the pic for this as well.
How many hours do you currently have into the install?
Vehicle: Mercedes Benz W124 Wide-Body (SoCalCarbon Custom)
Location: SoCal
Posts: 191
Quote:
Originally Posted by RBYCC
How many hours do you currently have into the install?
This is BABUSHKA:
Hard to say, we started from just refreshing the engine parts, seals, gaskets, pulleys, hoses... So part of the time was just maintenance. The longer part of the rest of the time was and still is figuring out the kit install. I personally have never done this kind of complex surgery, so many things I am learning as I go. Having almost completed the nstall, I can say that if I had to do it again, I could probably do it in 3-4 days (with no wait time for parts).
I am a little stuck now on the breather system. There were 2 hoses and a bag of clamps, filter, valve,... and the instructions do no go into the details.
Can you please describe (or photo) the proper install of the breather system of TT?
PS: pics are on the way, i havn't been able to clean up fully from being under the car for the past 4 days non-stop...
Good job and can't wait for pics. I'm just a few days behind you (pistons will go back in today) so any help you can give me would be much appreciated.
Can you give me the part number of the alternator bracket? It's possible that mine already had the right one but I want to check.
Thanks and good luck with the rest of the install.
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