|11-16-2006, 11:26 PM||#1 (permalink)|
BenzWorld Junior Member
Date registered: Oct 2005
Vehicle: '92 300CE
I have a '92 300CE with a sport suspension. I need to replace the suspension bushings. The squeaking coming from my car makes it sound like I might be havin WAY to much fun in there. Anybody know how much (ballpark) it is to replace the bushings so I have a quiet car again?
'92 300CE. Black/Black. Updated tails, xenons, debadged, matching 18" black rims, black bumpers, black grille, sport suspension, 30% tint all around. 153k. A work in progress...
|11-17-2006, 05:45 AM||#2 (permalink)|
Date registered: May 2003
Vehicle: E320 wagon
Location: southern cal.
Unless you can feel or see wear / cracks in the bushings , buy a can of silicone spray lube ( clear watery stuff ) . Hose of the heavy dirt and let it dry and spray the up half bolt - tube - bushing generously. You can lift the car to unload the suspension it helps on the front end . This is a common trick on dealer cars and on 150K $ motor homes .
The sway bars bushings are simple / cheap to change . The A-arm bushings are cheap but the labor can be high.
|11-17-2006, 09:58 PM||#3 (permalink)|
A few months back, Edwina went into squeaky, creaky fits whenever we drove over any bumps, and groaned when either my other half or me got out of the car. Eventually, she was even squeaking when you turned the steering wheel.
I tried silicone lube on the bushings, and the noise continued. I thought it was the struts, and changed them, but the noise came back within a week. I finally changed all the suspension bushings, all the steering linkage pieces (tie rods, drag link, idler arm bushings), and both lower ball joints.
The lower ball joints were the worst worn among the old parts, with lots of play, and lots of noise. The right side lower ball joint had about 1/8 inche of play in it, and rattled when I shook it after I got it out.
The lower ball joints were a PITA to change. My ball joint kit wasn't stout enough to push the old joints out. I ended up using a 20 ton shop press to push the old joints from the lower control arms. Hint, a piece of 2" galvanized pipe is perfect to support the control arm while you press the joint through.
It's expensive to replace everything at once, but these cars drive like a brand new one if you do replace all the moving parts at about the same time. The difference was amazing.
1990 300-E (Edwina)
1988 300-SEL (Gruselda)
1987 300-E (Eva)
1982 300-SD (Dumbledore) It'll take a wizard to get him running
1988 Mazda RX-7 GXL (Roxie) May she rest in pieces
|11-17-2006, 10:08 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Eric, i am hoping to do a suspension bushing etc job soon, what did you pay?
::Familie von Mercedes::
'00 German Sheperd ("Hans")
'89 300 TE 117k
'92 400E (killed in action)
'68 280 SE/8 (High School Sweetheart)
'95 E320 (mother's)
'60 190D (dad's new project)
'05 A6 Allroad 2.7t (dad's ride)
'84 190E (sold)
'90 300CE (brother's)
|11-18-2006, 07:47 AM||#5 (permalink)|
From (possibly faulty) memory, the parts were a little over $750
Struts - $125 per side
Strut mounts - $30 per side
Lower control arm bushings - $75 per side
Lower ball joints - $25 per side
Tie rod assemblies - $40 per side
Drag link - $50
Stabilizer bar bushings - $50
Steering stabilizer - $40
Idler arm bushing kit - $50
I've probably forgotten something there. Some of the parts, the dealership was a good deal. For the other parts, I got OEM parts through my local parts sources. One thing I did notice is that the OEM parts from the aftermarket channels came with new hardware (single use self locking nuts, bolts, etc.), and the dealership parts never included the hardware. Where the dealership was a bit cheaper, the extra charges for the new hardware wiped out a lot (all) of the savings.
I did the labor myself. If you are reasonably good with the wrenches, there's nothing really difficult about most of the work.
You will need the proper spring compressor, but rental units are available from members here, and from vendors that advertise online. The rental will cost you under $100, and you can usually keep the tool for up to a week. A ball joint separator puller or a pickle fork is also needed to separate the tie rod ends and lower ball joints. If you're replacing the joints anyway, the potential damage to the rubber boots from the pickle fork doesn't matter. Autozone or whoever can rent or loan you the pickle fork, or they aren't very expensive at all to buy.
My advice would be to arrange with a local shop for the press work for the lower ball joints and control arm bushings, and do the rest of the work yourself.
If I didn't work in a shop with the proper press, I would have taken the control arms off and taken them to a shop with a good press to get the lower ball joints pressed out and the lower control arm bushings pressed out. Probably about an hour of labor total for the press work. The rest of the job is within the reach of a typical do it yourself project.
|11-18-2006, 12:16 PM||#6 (permalink)|
I service my family's fleet of mercedes, and am more than comfy with a wrench and a benz, So I plan to do my own work, I will have to have a shop lined up to do the press work though, it is not worth the headache fighting things like that when a few bucks can make it quicker. 750 is a lot, but Ive got a wholesale parts guy in CA who I hope can help me save a few bucks. Driving a "new" w124 will be a treat!
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