Okay, need to remove and install the front shocks on my 92' 300CE. I did the search and saw a few things for the the DIY... I tried reading thru the procedure and I just seem to be a lil confused about one thing....when exactly to jack the wishbone?. I mean, I can see the bolts and it looks pretty simple.... I know I have to compress the spring so till its not supporting anymore...then unbolt and remove the shock. Somebody just tell me when I need to have the wishbone jacked up and then down please. Do I jack it up, compress spring, let down jack, then unbolt the shock and remove?? Then install new shock, jack it up, release spring compressor, let down jack and finished?
Just give me the basic sequence. The other lil details inbetween seem straight forward. I just wanna make sure I don't have nothing shooting off or anything like that. Can't afford to lose a finger. Well, thanks for the help yall.
I just did this on my 88 TE and you may want to reconsider doing this job. Especially if you're not clear on when to jack the wishbone...
You'd put a floor jack under the control arm, raise the jack enough to compress the spring 2 or maybe 3 inches, keep the jack in place, remove the wheel/tire assembly, remove the strut rod nut, disconnect the abs sensor wiring from the strut, remove the strut lower mounting bolts, and remove the strut.
The problem is that the struts are gas charged so they'll extend. The new ones will be pretty strong. You'll be working inside the wheelhouse with a strut that wants to extend, room is tight, you need to get the strut rod through the hole in the strut mount, and you need to get the strut mounting bolts installed. Remember, you're doing all this while one corner of the car is supported by a floor jack via the control arm and the new strut is fighting hard to extend. It's a job, a nasty job, to keep it under control.
I had my car on a lift and used that in combination with the floor jack. It was still tough. The next time I do the job I'll use a spring compressor.
I just did this yesterday. I don't like the idea of placing a floor jack under the control arm/wishbone because if the floor jack fails or it lowers, the spring will come out flying and it could cause serious bodily injury/death.
1)Jacked one side of the car (side you are working on) using the provided jack pad mount behind the front wheel.
2)placed a jack stand under the control arm/wishbone where it meets the steering nuckle.
3)lowered car so that the full weight is resting on the jack stand. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT because it will compress the spring to the same amount it would be when the car has all 4 wheels on the ground.
4)un do the top nut of the strut mount (under the hood). This is a 22mm nut. You have to use a hex wrench as a counter holder.
5)un do the three lower bolts that hold the lower part of the strut in place.
6)remove strut
Replacing the strut is a challenge since you have to insert the top part first and then compress it in order to align the lower 3 bolts. You can use a large screwdriver or crowbar for leverage. Once the holes are aligned, replace the lower 3 bolts, tighten them and then tighten the upper bolt.
While you are at it, replace the strut bushings, strut mount and strut bellows IF necessary.
Good luck and be VERY careful.
Okay, now its a lil clearer... I'm sure I'll see even more clearly as I do the job. I'm almost sure I'll get my hands dirty now since my mechanic quoted me a price of $625 for parts and labor. That's crazy... I think... Anyways, I have access to a lift and all that so I think I should be able to handle it. They also have acces to the spring compressors too. I just wasn't sure what was most recommended and/or easier.
Another thing...is it easy to tell if the mounts need to be replaced? I planned on changing the bushings anyways, but not sure bout the mounts. As for the "bellows".... not sure what that is? Do you mean the boot? I thought there was only the shock/strut itself, the bushing, the mount, and boot. Let me know if I'm on the same page with ya. Also, let me know what I should be looking for to tell if they're bad or not. Thanks again guys... This is really gonna help keep some money in my pocket and I really luv being able to say "I did it".
I replaced my bushings for $10 each, the strut mounts for $24 each and the bellows/boot for $4.25 each. Old ones "seemed" OK but I figured new ones are even better. My struts were fine even after almost 180K miles so I won't be replacing them yet but when I do I will chose Bilstein Heavy Duty.
I replaced the bellows and bump stops on both my cars. As the struts get weaker the car bottoms out more frequently and the bump stops take a beating. On my 88s the bellows seals were junk, literally disentigrating, separated from the strut mount, and dropped down around the strut. They *are* 18 years old after all...
I highly recommend that you buy only genuine MBZ bump stops and bellows. I bought aftermarket initially and was unhappy. The bump stop was shorter than stock and the bellows were made of a different (harder) material and were shorter. I installed one pair, looked at it, and said "Nah." The bottom of the strut piston was exposed!
I ordered MBZ parts and they match the originals. The aftermarket stuff is cheaper and there's a reason. Go with OE parts on this one. I can post pics of the OE vs aftermarket parts but not for a couple of days.
I didn't replace the strut mounts on either car. The sedan has 186k and the rubber looks fine. Maybe hotter areas of the country fare worse.
I did the struts on my 400e a few months ago and basically followed Sergio's procedure using the weight of the vehicle to compress the springs (jacking, removing he wheel and then setting the arm down on a stable platform at about normal ride level, then proceding with strut removal and installation). In addition (as I'm sure he did too) making sure the parking brake was set tight and the wheels blocked - stability, stability, stability - since you do need to pry and "muscle" the new units into position (=some potential vehicle shake). I dismissed even the thought of using a jack alone. I want to keep my head on my shoulders! Best of luck....Scotz
Okay guys....all good info. Gosh, I have a 92' and just crossed the 100k mark. I guess its just the tropical weather that could have been the result of mine going bad at this point. I can see one tire is really getting in bad shape with spotty baldness happening.
So as for genuine parts.... that's what I want, but hoping for the most reasonable prices. I had been using autohausAZ.com and performanceproducts.com for most of my parts, unless somebody here has the parts for less. Then again, autohausAZ don't have Bilstein. I just wanna be sure to get the right stuff. I want Bilstein shocks... what brand should the bushings and other stuff be(is it bilstein too)? I see performanceproducts have bilstein(comfort) $113 each. Is that what I should be getting or should I go find the "heavy duty"(which isn't listed)?? Buffer is $10.60, boot $7.85, shock mount $29.00. So for around $320 and a couple hours of work, I should be set..... oh, then I need the new tire and I should get an alignment too after a shock replacement right? I hear many recommend that, but wasn't sure if its really needed.
Just for kicks, here's the prices at autohausAZ...
Sachs-Boge shocks (heavy duty)-$103, mount-$28, bumber(Meyle)-$8.42, boot(MTC)-$4.98
Well, thanks for the help yall.
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