Very Slow at pullaway- Loss Of Power

[Jayare]

Lee,

PM me. I'll give you my ph. # and we can talk about this.

Jayare

[neanderthal]

remember that throwing parts at a problem isnt going to get you a solution until you throw the right parts at it.

this is why its important to have a good indie mechanic

[Erwin8r]

Originally Posted by Jayare

Lee,

PM me. I'll give you my ph. # and we can talk about this.

Jayare

Any resolution to this issue? I have a 300CE, with very similar issues (read my other post...). I though about going after the 02 sensor as well, but I want to get the idle air mixture down, and I'm replacing the fuel filter/cap/dist/plug wires before I go there. Thanks!

[Jayare]

My problem with slow takeoff is gone. A combo of o2 sensor, cap, wires, plugs, fuel filter, air filter etc. were all changed out. I then adjusted the air/fuel mixture and boom.... All gone..

Take the adjustments in slow increments. Maybe 1/4 turn at a time. Leaning it out (counter clockwise) wasn't it. Mine needed to be a tad richer. Use a multimeter with a "duty cycle" feature. It will read out as a %. Place the pos. prob. into the #11 pin socket on the left inner fender. Neg on any good ground. You want a reading of about 50% to show. Do this with the car warm and running. Wait about 20 sec. or so between adjustments.

Good Luck,

Jayare

[Erwin8r]

Jayare--which is the "duty cycle" feature?

[Erwin8r]

My Multimeter has an "on/off/continutity" switch, then two dials.

The first dial reads from 30Mohms (10 A), to 3000, 300, 30, 3 or so volts (mV)

The second dial reads DC V , AC V, an arrow + thing with "check", the K ohm, DC mA, and AC mA.

Thanks!

[Jayare]

Not sure on yours. I purchased mine at Sears for less than $40 bucks. It has a "duty" cycle feature clearly marked on the packaging. When I get home from work tonight, I'll look up the model number and PM you with the details.

Jayare

[mbenzman]

I have trouble with slow acceleration too, So I had a friend video it http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...1a68efeb32.htm
It turned out to be caused by several issues,
1. Not enough tire adhesion despite the 275/35/18 size and 140 treadwear rating and the limited slip differential
2. the installed ASR defeat switch placed in the off position
3. The torque created by my modified M119 engine.
4. too ambitious a throttle application followed by the continued application of too much throttle despite feathering of the throttle to keep from over revving.
5. even having an extra 100 pounds of stereo equipment did not seem to curb this condiition.

Unlike you though, I have accepted and even looked for ways to worsen this.
Rich

[nickCR]

I have lots of experience with this rather expensive annoying and stupid problem. My story goes pretty much the same as yours. Replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap, fuel distributor, complete head rebuild (new guides and valves), fuel filter & fuel pumps. After $3000 and many promises I had enough. I took my car to my local Bosch dealership and they checked it out. They finally told me that they had to replace the injectors and $200 later at Bosch I was back on the road with the problem fixed. My problem was worse when the engine was hot and if I just step on it without the car in gear or with the clutch in (mine is a 5 spd) then I would have serious stuters up to about 2000-3000 RPM which ofcourse caused the car to accelerate very slowly.

Either way thought i'd share as it is quite possible that it would fix your issue by simply changing the injectors. However a good shop will be able to test your fuel distributor ($600 replacement refurbished), perform a leak down test on your valves, check your filter (something you should replace often anyway) and then have them check the fuel pump usually they do this at the same time of checking the fuel distributor anyway then finally you might actually want to change your injectors depending on the results of those test. Mine only cost me $30 /ea or something like that it really wasn't that much in light of all the other money I dumped into it and wish I would have done those test first and spent $100-$200 on test vs $3000 wasted cash.

[leetyler]

Thanks for all the replies. Seemed that after a long battle trying to find out what the issue was with these slow start symptoms it turned out to by the o2 sensor, car runs a whole lot better now but still needs some work. In my personal opinion this car should be running alot different from what mine is.

I have created a list of issues I would like to address but now is not a good time with a new born arriving imminently.

(1) Car makes a weird ticking noise when started, seems to be coming from the front end, I think it's the chain but not sure.

(2) Car is loud, not that the engine noise is unpleasant but it's louder than it should be from what I have read, new engine mounts needed or maybe it's an exorst issue. Car seats vibrate visibly at stand still.

(3) Needs tie rods and four wheel alignment done, when this is don’t I will buy some new tires.

(4) I have no doubt that even though my temp gauge states the car is running at normal operating temperature it is running hot, the engine is absolutely baking if I pop the hood, if I leave the car for 30 minutes in the garage after a 8-10 mile trip and put my hand on the hood, it is really hot. I think this cold be a rad problem or even a gasket issue, NO oil in coolant though ???

(5) Car still smells dusty... i have tried alot of things to get rid of this, from ozone cleaners to washing the entire carpet interior of the car. I have no idea what to do next. I know it's coming from the a/c vents for sure. Also have some A/C deodorizer but I can't get to the evaporator.

(6) Paint on hood is fading. I have tried clay bars and polishing which make a small difference but I just think that over the last 16 years in the sun the hood and some parts of the roof need attention.

(7) Needs a new audio system and some wood interior reconditioning. All of which I will do myself in time; the rest of the interior is mint. Black....

(8) Would like the euro headlight option but my stocks are in good shape and I don’t really want to change unless completely necessary. Maybe if a find a good deal I will do it.

Here's a list of what IV done since July 2004 when I bought it.

New water pump - 170
New Surp Belt - 70
New Plugs and wires - 150
New distributor cap - 35
New Rotor - 45
New coolant expansion tank - 45
New front brake pads and rotors - 455
New A/C compressor and Labor - 365
New “8 hole “ rims - 175
Transmission Flush fill and filter - 135

Total $1175, that’s not bad for over 2 years of ownership with any car of this age.

What I think needs to be done and approximate cost.

Fuel Filter - 50
Back pads and rotors - 200
Front struts and pins and 4 wheel alignment - 350
4 new tires - 360
New Rad - 145
New flex disc - 125
Motor Mounts - 100
Wood reconditioning - 75
New paint on hood - 600
New Audio System - 250

Total $ 2255 not including any major issues that may arise. Touch wood none!!!

So it looks like I have some large expenses to come at me but I have sunk to much money and time into this car just to give up and sell. I love the design, the class and overall I think that with time and help and can have this thing running like new again for years to come. Even at its age now I still get complements on this car. I don't get that with the 99 540i or 2001 Sebring convertible.

Thanks again fella's