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How to get to the cruise control amp

39K views 35 replies 16 participants last post by  LeftCoastGeek  
#1 ·
Hi All

Great forum. It's provided me with a lot of help in choosing and fixing my 230E. So for my first post I'm contributing this basic info which I battled with at first. I hope it's helpful to others.

For anyone who's cruise control isn't working and wondering how to get to the cruise control amp under the dash this is how I did it on my '92 W124 230E manual (Being South African this is a Right hand drive vehicle)

To remove the kickboard under the steering column

1. Put your finger into the side of the ignition key hole, you'll feel that the material is made of rubber, pull firmly to the right (the plastic lugs behind the plastic trim aim to the left) *Maybe it's the other way round on a Left hand drive vehicle* and the ignition cover should come off (note the three black holes in the pic below, that's where the lugs snap in) Remove the screw and bolt that you can see in the pic.

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2. Now pull the Headlight control knob out, this was a bit difficult but you can do it with your thumb and index finger, I got it out by turning the headlight knob all the way to the left and then pulling it out.

Once you've got it off

3. Remove the nut shown in the pic below. Best to take out the little lightbulb first so you don't break it.

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4. The black plasic trim clicks out if you pull to the right.

5. Now you'll see 3 brass bolts that need to be removed. Bear in mind that the two screws you can see under the parking brake release DO NOT need to be removed, NOR does that tricky looking screw that you can see when you pull out the parking brake release.

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6. Now down at the bottom under the dash, (easy to find, no pic necessary) remove the two bolts on either side and the screw in the middle

7. Now gently pull the dash out and you'll see the cruise amp box (the silver aluminium box in the pic) you do not need to unscrew the two phillips screws, just unbolt the bracket, the two nuts holding the bracket are visible in this pic. For reference the round thing on the right hand side of the pic is the headlamp knob

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8. Now you've ubolted it pull the cruise amp towards you and gently release the 14 pin connector from the back.

9. The circuit board is encased inside the silver aluminium box, you'll need to gently prize the kinks open to get the board out.

10. Go ahead and do the resoldering or cleaning of the board and good luck. I don't have the skills to resolder so I gave the board a cleaning with surgical spirits and a tooth brush but to no avail.

11. When you reassemble it's best to reverse the order, so start by bolting in from the bottom.

Good Luck
 
#2 ·
Thanks for the tip! I'm sure a lot of folks will benefit from that. Also just so you know, I've seen references in forums here to places that will rebuild the amp for you for a fee, don't recall the names but a search should yield the results you need. Now that you can take it out, might as well benefit from your hard work!
 
#4 ·
4484 said:
St3ve, thanks for your contribution!

Please let me know the function of cruise control and what happen when the cruise control amp malfunction to the '92 W124 230E?

4484
Hey 4484, speed control or auto cruise see here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cruise_control

And when it's not working you just don't have that feature. The car still runs fine.
 
#6 ·
Got it out and cleaned it with electronics cleaner, no change.
I think the box is out.

It's funny one day it started working, for only about 10 minutes, and that was that. Hasn't worked ever since. I think it was just saying goodbye before it died. :D
 
#7 ·
Oops... while disconnecting the 14 pin connector from the aluminum box, the connector fell apart and all the 14 wires are now hanging in the air. I have no idea how to arrange them back in the connector! Any ideas?

The hanging wires:
Image


The back side of the connector, with numbers from 1 to 14 on it, but no reference to which color wire goes to what number...
Image
 
#8 ·
Have you tried a local shop or dealer and see if you can pick up or they can fax/email a copy of the wiring diagram/schematic???
 
#10 ·
I've called the dealer for a faxed document before, and they were very helpful. It didn't take long at all.
 
#11 ·
Question Re Amp

Good day,

I find that my Cruise Control 'surges' the engine.

When driving at ~120km/h, you can feel how the engine pulses, and also see that on the economy gauge.
It is quite uncomfortable, I rather drive manually.

Now, I am waiting until I have some time to take out the Amp and resolder all the connections, but I also notice that sometimes my Speedo Needle fluctuates about 5km/h up and down.

Could this have something to do with the surging?
If so, where must I look?

Regards,

Erich
 
#12 ·
Good day,

I find that my Cruise Control 'surges' the engine.

When driving at ~120km/h, you can feel how the engine pulses, and also see that on the economy gauge.
It is quite uncomfortable, I rather drive manually.

Now, I am waiting until I have some time to take out the Amp and resolder all the connections, but I also notice that sometimes my Speedo Needle fluctuates about 5km/h up and down.

Could this have something to do with the surging?
If so, where must I look?

Regards,

Erich
Could be your potentiometer on the throttle body
 
#16 · (Edited)
Typically it has to do with a few things:

TPS (throttle position sensor/potentiometer), AFM/MAF (air flow sensor), and ICV (idle control sensor or valve)

Also check for any vacuum leaks from:

intake manifold, CCV/PCV crank case vent/positive crankcase vent, intake boot, and brake booster non-return or air valve.

Sometimes just a simple spray of MAF cleaner on the MAF/AFM does the trick.
But is doesn't hurt to clean out the throttle body and butterfly valve with TB cleaner as well.
 
#17 ·
I read about a 'fix' over on peachtree....they were saying to take the CC unit out of its plastic case and put it in an over for exactly ten minutes @400 degrees. You use a baking pan with foil on the bottom and then roll up some foil 'feet' to put under the CC unit. After ten minutes, turn off the oven, open the oven door and DO NOT touch the unit until it has completely cooled.

Theory being that solder flows just under 400 degrees and all your solder joints will reform. My only question is what about the rest of the components on the PCB-can they take that heat without failure? Oh well, mine's dead anyway....probably worth the gamble. Sure, it may doom your CC as a core for the rebuilders, but you can always pick another one up at a junkyard.;-)

Kevin
 
#18 ·
It would be safer to resolder the contact points on the PCB with a soldering iron. :thumbsup:
 
#22 ·
If you're trying to solve the problem and learn from the experience by practicing soldering techniques. I don't see it as a gamble.

Just putting it in an oven isn't adding to your knowledge or electrical skills.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Except for two things:
1) You solder it yourself and fail, the rebuilders will refuse the core.
2) If you do this, you need a pick & pull source for another MB CC, if you fail.

My point is valid and you know it; practice on some other PCB's before taking on the MB CC. There are worthwhile electronics kits galore on the Net. Putting the bare CC in the oven (providing the heat doesn't harm the components), is a no-brainer for those not willing to risk re-soldering. If you want to learn to solder, buy a kit. This is not going to become a 'Clash of The Titans' dialog exercise...do and advise whatever you wish.

Kevin
 
#26 ·
#27 ·
Would you wash your whole car to get a window clean? Putting a circuit board in the oven at 400 degrees to fix a cold solder joint is about the dumbest thing I have ever heard of. Chances are a defective CC amp is 15 - 20 years old when it first fails. I doubt one would last more than two years even if the oven treatment DID work.