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Old 04-26-2006, 12:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jan 2004
Vehicle: 2005 BMW R1200GS
Location: Bountiful, UT
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Thanks for the help, guys. For some reason, the forum hasn't been sending me e-mail notifications so I didn't know anyone had responded. I'll go run the code test right now. . .
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Old 04-26-2006, 01:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jan 2004
Vehicle: 2005 BMW R1200GS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio

Code List
1 No malfunction in system monitored
2 Heated O2 sensor inoperative
3 Lambda control inoperative
4 Air injection inoperative
5 Exhaust gas recirculation inoperative
6 Idle speed control inoperative
7 Ignition system defective
8 Engine coolant temp. sensor, open/short circuit
9 Intake air temp. sensor, open/short circuit
10 Voltage at hot wire mass air flow sensor too high/low
11 TN-signal (rpm) at engine control module (N3/4) defective
12 Heated O2 sensor heater, open/short circuit
15 Wide open throttle information defective
21 Bad Purge Switch-Over Valve
22 Cam posistion sens. signal defect
23 Intake man. pressure low
24 Starter ring gear segments defect
25 Knock sens
26 Upshift delay SOV (switchover) valve open/shorted
27 Deviation between coolant temp sensor circuits 1 &2
28 Coolant temp sens.

OK, so I went out, located said box, pushed the button and got it to flash. After repeating it several times, I only got the same code over and over again . . .

#8


So, what the hell is "Engine coolant temp. sensor, open/short circuit" ? Would this explain my sudden drop in gas mileage? How do I fix this?

Thanks!

Steven
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Old 05-24-2006, 05:38 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Date registered: Dec 2005
Vehicle: 1995 E320
Location: Washington State
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can you post pic how to replace O2 sen for DIY
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Old 05-24-2006, 05:45 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Date registered: Nov 2005
Vehicle: Mercedes E200 black. Mercedes 300ce - sold.
Location: plymouth UK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by conleycrew3
iv just bought some of the above mentioned lucas injector cleaner

i will post my results when i have some
well iv had the lucas stuff in my car for a week or two now and filled the tank 3 times........

i reccomend this to anyone now, she is doing better on gas, runs smoother, feels like she has a few more ponies (maybe just me) and the slight stumble she had has all but gone now!!

cheers
Ben
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Old 02-17-2007, 02:38 AM   #15 (permalink)
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95 e320 Idle variation, and radio knocks out at 1500rpm

Hello, i new to this forum. I just got a wierd variation from 500 to 1200 rpm on cold starts. i am not sure what it is. When the car is cold, it will make a wave like 500rpm to 1200rpm revving and after it warms up a bit(80degrees) it idles normal. can anyone help?
THanks
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:29 AM   #16 (permalink)
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then let it warm up.
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Old 02-17-2007, 01:21 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2006
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lol, soo hmm, my car isnt broken or anything, but i just tried the code reader for the heck of it and im not seeming to get any flashing of the leds at all. the green wire that runs up to the code reader box does have a red wire that seems to be joined to it but then is cut off once its out of the box. it was like that when i got the car tho. im just curious. anyone know if there is supposed to be only one green wirecoming from below the box or 2?
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Old 02-17-2007, 01:28 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2006
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oh and the o2 sensor is real easy to replace, and im not even that good at all this DYI stuff. im sure theres pics somewhere in the forum but heres some basic steps:

the sensor itself is found on the pipe coming outta the catylytic converter. the front of the cat, as in between the engine and the cat. so jack up your car, and you can find it pretty easily.
you just unscrew it, not sure o fthe mm size, mines was all rusted on so some wd40 might help, just be careful notto strip it. the wires from the sensor go through a little port and come out underneath the floor mats of the front passenger seats. i think its a blue bundle of wires. just unhook them from the little port where they hook into, and take them out through the port where the actual sensor is.
the new one, just screw it on first, and then putthe wire through the port and hook them up again. but yes, the prices are pretty much between 50-150 depending where
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:43 PM   #19 (permalink)
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TOday i ran the car, and it even after warming up had the 500-1200 wave for about 5 minutes after the car was at 80degrees. my code comes up at #15 Wide open throttle information defective and #21 Bad Purge Switch-Over Valve do you know what these are? or where they are located?
Thanks for your help.
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Old 02-18-2007, 03:38 AM   #20 (permalink)
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The EFI system sensors include a switch that tells the computer when you have the throttle floored. That caused a lot of fuel to be injected. Well if the computer senses that engine RPMs are low and the WOT switch says that you have the throttle floored, something is wrong. Both can't be right. You need to check the wiring going to the WOT switch (which is screwed to the side of the throttlebody) and, if the wiring is okay, use an ohmmeter to check the switch itself.

The code 21 is related to the emission control system and could also be the source of your car's troubles. Fuel vapors from the tank are routed to a chamber that contains activated charcoal. The charcoal traps and holds the vapors to prevent them from entering the atmosphere. (Prior to the introduction of this technology in 1971, about 20% of a car's total lifetime HC emissions came from raw fuel simply evaporating!) A hose connected to the engine allows the trapped vapors to be sucked into the engine during certain operating conditions.

A solenoid is used to prevent the vapors from entering the engine during idling. If the solenoid is bad engine idle can get screwy.
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