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1992 E300 (automatic) engine keeps dying

3K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  iragreenstein 
#1 ·
Hey,

This problem keeps getting worse and I was wondering if any experts here may know what could be wrong. The description might be sorta long, but it's necessary to describe what happens, it's really awkward.

Here is how it happens:

In the morning (or any time the car has been standing for 10 or so hours), I turn on the engine and leave my house. After about 3-5 minutes I drive down a hill, and when I get off the gas pedal the RPM needle JUMPS to 0. The same thing happens when i get off the gas as I'm nearing a stop sign or traffic light. If i don't touch the gas pedal again and just break, the engine will die once the car slows down. Sometimes I can prevent that by changing to 3rd or 2nd gear or just accelarating to try to get higher rpms. If the engine dies, I have to wait a few minutes for it to start again (if i'm lucky).

More recently, the problem has gotten worse. In addition to the above, sometimes, when I come to a complete stop the engine does NOT die, but when I want to accelerate from the complete stop it DOES. Also, the engine would start again almost immediately, but when I put it back in to Drive (or 2nd/3rd gear for that matter), the same happens. The engine dies as I hit the gas pedal.

Overall the car is in a very good condition. I get it serviced regularly. I also brought my car to the shop several times now, but they can never find the problem.

Here is some more info on my car. It's a 1992 E300 automatic, 6 cylinder gasoline powered. It has around 122,000 miles.

Anyway, thanks for reading this, and I would GREATLY appreciate if someone could lead me in the right direction. It's become increasingle dangerous driving my car as I could get stuck in the middle of an intersection at any time.

Thanks
 
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#2 ·
Hi Tom,
I have a similar problem with my '92 300TE. The difference is that I have to park for about 15 minutes after driving from cold for about a mile. Then it is very hard to re-start and if I can get it going it "flat spots" and "stalls". Once I've coaxed it along for a mile or so it's OK for the rest of the day. If I start off from home on a longish journey without stopping I get no problems. It has been suggested that I add injector cleaning additive to the petrol. I've done this but no change. HELP!!
 
#4 ·
Tom, have the injectors, fuel filter, plugs,wires,rotor,etc been changed out in a while?? Im most concearned about the injectors by your description. I have a 78 450 sl and the injectors were replaced 5 years ago and here i am 6k miles later and 2 of them need replacing again as they studder, flat spot, shake,etc. My 300e when i got it was hard starting too and i put new injectors in and whalla, fixed. Some here may say motor mounts also. good luck[:0]
 
#5 ·
I may have gone thru a similar experience with a W126-500SEL which I used to own in the Philippines.

I went thru the same nightmare and embarassment of the car just dying on me. While it seemed fuel related (went thru the whole gamut of changing filter and accumulator and placing a jumper on the fuel pump relay), it just kept dying specially when the engine had been running for some time.

Traced the problem to the igniter (sorry I am not very technical) which is the electronic kit which is connected by a wire coming from the distributor. We replaced it with a pre-owned unit, and the car continues to live.

Just wanted to share this without confusing you further but if the dealer (as the one I had been going to) has eliminated most of the possible culprits-which usually is fuel related, start thinking electrical and engine firing.

Goodluck! [:)]
 
#6 ·
bc2885 - 8/21/2005 10:12 PM

Tom, have the injectors, fuel filter, plugs,wires,rotor,etc been changed out in a while?? Im most concearned about the injectors by your description. I have a 78 450 sl and the injectors were replaced 5 years ago and here i am 6k miles later and 2 of them need replacing again as they studder, flat spot, shake,etc. My 300e when i got it was hard starting too and i put new injectors in and whalla, fixed. Some here may say motor mounts also. good luck[:0]
SLEX Runner - 8/22/2005 11:39 AM

I may have gone thru a similar experience with a W126-500SEL which I used to own in the Philippines.

I went thru the same nightmare and embarassment of the car just dying on me. While it seemed fuel related (went thru the whole gamut of changing filter and accumulator and placing a jumper on the fuel pump relay), it just kept dying specially when the engine had been running for some time.

Traced the problem to the igniter (sorry I am not very technical) which is the electronic kit which is connected by a wire coming from the distributor. We replaced it with a pre-owned unit, and the car continues to live.

Just wanted to share this without confusing you further but if the dealer (as the one I had been going to) has eliminated most of the possible culprits-which usually is fuel related, start thinking electrical and engine firing.

Goodluck! [:)]
Thanks for the replies and suggestions.

None of the parts you listed have been replaced recently. I'm also not sure if those are really the problem. The reason is that after 30 minutes or so, the car runs fine. It's just the first couple of minutes after cold starting that pose the problem.

What concerns me the most, however, is the part where the engine starts, but when I hit the throttle it dies.
 
#7 ·
I really think this problem is related to the ICV (Idle Control Valve). If it only happens after start and until warm i'd say that is most likely the problem.

I would suggest however that you look at replacing, distributor cap, rotor, plugs, fuel filter you should see a noticeable difference in the way your car runs :).
 
#8 ·
I appreciate all the help, and will check up on some of the things you guys have listed.

I searched a bit around, and i've seen people suggest that the airflow sensor pot, a/c compressor, or the 'Over Voltage Protection Relay' could also cause the problem. Anyone else think this could be the case.

I still want to emphasize that the problem is only 20 or so minutes after cold starting... then it goes away.
 
#9 ·
i have the same problem on my 86 300e. it is something with fuel pressure, either the pump or a leak in one of the lines, because for me, it always happens when it's cold outside. the whole summer, it was fine, then all of the sudden as the temp cooled off, the car began to sputter again like it had the previous winter. once it gets warm outside, the car is fine, but until then, its terrible.
 
#10 ·
I had a similar problem with my 92 300E 4Matic. After the car was warm, it would start up just fine. From a stop, when i hit the gas, the car would hesitate badly and then kick in. On the road and at speed, no problem (dead spots, hesitation). It turned out to be my Electro Hydrolic Actuator (EHA). Not cheap, though (about $400). No issues since that part was replaced.
 
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