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Rear wheel bearings/hub removal

11K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  Schnauzerguy 
#1 ·
Yes, I heard they are a bear to do. Have the brake discs and calipers off, axles out, castle nut removed. Any tricks on actually removing the hub from the arm? bolted rotor on backwards, tried to persuade it off that way, not budging. hesitant to pound it out from the inside, threaded wall looks too thin for that. Also, the inner seal that supposedly can be pried out with a screwdriver has no intention of leaving its home... Any advice from someone who's been down this road?
 
#2 ·
You have to use a puller to remove them, as they are pressed in. I had to do one on my 380SL, as someone in the past thought it would be a good idea to turn the hub down so it would slide right in. It had a bit of wobble, so I had to swap out the hub as well. I had my rear subframe out when I did mine, so it was a bit easier to work on at that time.
 

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#3 ·
A puller is indeed the best solution. I've read a few accounts that have said hammering the hub out has utterly buggered it.

I used a strange combination of wood and threaded bar to make up a puller when I did this job (Like VON I also had the whole subframe and trailing arms assembly out but a puller will also work in-situ):-

I used a block of wood on the innermost edge of the hub (after removing the nut) and put a threaded bar through to the other side into another bit of wood. The reactive forces need to go onto the outer side of the brake dust shield (or there abouts). Finding a good place for the reactive force is the difficult bit. There is a strong likelihood that you will / can damage the brake dust shield.

I wrote a thread showing what I did on Peach Parts - I can dig out the thread for you if it is of interest.
 
#5 ·
Be very careful with the new crush washers - these ones and the similar ones for the differentials - can be absolute pigs to "get started". Once they start to crush it isn't so bad but I've had to apply really silly loads (it was in tons on a hydraulic press) before they've budged...

...to expect this to happen by just tightening a nut is not reasonable. May be I've just been unlucky - may be they are made out of something else these days - may be... - may be... - just be careful especially with the expensive special tool (which by the way fits better if you get the one from the dealership rather than the other versions)
 
#6 ·
ive swapped a couple of rear bearings, ive never had any problem getting the hub out, i just pulled at it by hand after removing the "nut" with the specialtool on the backside.

changing wheelbearing rear w115, w123 w116, r107 and w126 | Mercedes-Benz turbo

knife/smal things to get the bearing loose from the hub, and hammer/smaller sledgehammer and a driftpin to remove them from the trailarm, to get them in place in the proper order is more of a challenge not getting any dirt or debris in there.
(i used a 46mm socket the wrong way along an extender in it to hammer it in place)
(ive swapped with the stuff still hanging under the car)




The aftermarket tool that Garrett (dieselkraut) was kind enough to send to me works, but the "stock" one has a better feel to it, and is 3/4" instead of 1/2" socket.

i used a long arm on the socket, about 2m or 6feet something long, a bit of a knick to get it starting, and then slowly working it tighter (and not to tight)
ive also been successfull in "retightening" bearings that had some play.
 
#7 ·
Well last weekend turned into fridge repair/Easter weekend. Hopefully I get back in the garage this weekend. Free beer Friday at work, so I'm set. I actually got the special nuts off with a $19.99 tool. Craftsman socket, cut off wheel on a hand grinder and a bench grinder for the finishing touch. Wouldn't budge with a 24" bar, all i did was compress the rear spring. Impact wrench did the trick. Left rear was stubborn, right rear not so much. Thanks for all the advice, I'll keep you all posted.
 
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