It's been a long time since ive been back on here. I Have been wanting to do this for a while. I spoke with cooljjay a year ago and asked about is it ok to just use the bosh nozzles since i was having a time finding monark nozzles. He said yea its cool. So i bought those from rock auto. Then I tried to build a pop tester but that didnt work too well. So theeeennnn i went ahead and bought the one for sale on mercedes source. Dam thing is high and i think its leaking at the piston end. Maybe it lube he put on it ill check latter. Just got the dam thing. Also i have five injector innards , and five complete injectors to work with. Plus the ones in my car. Im curious as to are the bosh nozzles are just as good, for the economical purchaser :grin . I mean its a 83 300D Turbo benz. Your suppose to drive smooth and cool but not sluggish. Not like your in a bullit chase scene,,, right? If i wanted to do that i got just the car for that,,, but not this one.:wink Soooooo let the nightmare begin.
I have replaced my Bosch DN0SD220 nozzles with DN0SD261. These were the last nozzles Mercedes equipped the OM616 engine with. They have the same benefits as DN0SD240 nozzles (less smoke, smoother, quieter running) while preserving the reliability of the solid DN0SD220 nozzles (i.e. no small hole in the pintle that can get blocked). They also cost roughly the same as DN0SD220, and considerably less than DN0SD240.
Monark is not available in South Africa, and neither is Bosio. So it's Bosch or nothing. There have been some reports of poor quality, but these nozzles are so cheap that I bought 10, in case one or two of them isn't up to par.
AND THATS WHAT I WAS THINKING ABOUT DOING. jUST CHANGING THEM OUT AFTER SO MANY MILES. i WILL POST PICTURES AS SOON AS I CAN REMEMBER HOW TO DO IT.iM TRYING TO POST PICS RIGHT NOW BUT ITS BEEN A WHILE
And this is the pop tester i tried to build but it leaked at the welds so i said hell with it and bought one. But now that i have one i can look at, i can build one now. But thats for latter.
Maybe it's different where you live, but over here I typically disassemble, clean and reassemble the injectors, then I take them to the nearest Bosch service centre. Pop-testing, balancing/levelling and torquing costs me nothing. If they need to replace shims, I pay.
These old-fashioned pop testers simply aren't accurate enough for anything beyond getting the engine running or checking the injectors for leaks.
Yea thats a good page. Ive seen that one before. I was going to go back to it when i tear into this project more. I dont mind doing it myself. My father always told me you always pay for what you dont know so try to know as much as you can. Even if its a little. This will be my learning experience. It gives me hope. That the day soon will come when my car will run exquisitely and bring pleasure to this unworthy admirer
So today I looked over four of my injectors. I misplaced the 5th a while back when i tried to clean that one unit. Took them apart. Note the rust. You're not suppose to use steel wool to remove the rust. Your are suppose to use brass wool or brass brush. But its hard to get inside the nozzle shell. To hell with all that. I'm going to do it a better way. I'm always working on my motorcycles and when i clean rust out of the inside of my fuel tanks, I use electrolysis.
Then i set up a clean steel pot with four jars inside it. Each jar is about the same size but has different advertisement on them so i know which is which. I made a drawing so that I'll know which injector parts where in which jar.
Then I added clean water, And 3/4ths of this box of baking soda. Normally all the parts would be scattered in the pot but since i have to keep them in order as advised , i had to also add the soda directly to each jar . Only to help speed up the process. And add soda to the spaces around the jars .
Then i had to make a cathode. But the one i used was a little rusty so it didn't work to good so I made another. But i will show the failed one anyway. To illustrate you have to put rubber, wood, or something to insulate the cathode from touching the pot. It must be free floating in the solution. Then i drilled a whole in a board and slid the cathode through and hook on positive lead to pot body without lead touching solution, and hooked negative to cathode. You cant tell in pic but it sizzles like alka seltzer. Buuuuuuut since the cathode was rusty and small, it was a small and slow reaction. The bigger the cathode the faster the action.
Ive been thinking about phosphating the bodies but im not sure if it will lead to problems. I'm gonna do a set anyway one day what the hell.
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