Ive read through a lot of threads here about rust but Im trying to determine if fixing the rust on my 300D is worthwhile. For $1k, she's a trooper mechanically and on the interior, but the rust is an issue I haven't tackled yet and I have some structural concerns. I want this to be a solid looking daily driver.
1) The rocker panels shows signs that they attempted to patch with fiberglass but rust is still showing through. Im hoping to just sand + POR15, prime and spray with a close enough duplicolor paint?
2) The rear wheel wells have some pretty substantial rust that I can chip away chunks at (I've since replaced the rotors and calipers).
3) The hard steel fuel line drips at the rubber bracket below the drivers seat and I can't "cut and patch" it because closer to the engine somebody slapped black goop on it (not pictured, but I'm presume it was dripping there too). This is preventing that furthest bracket from supporting the lines. If I cut it out, the line will have no support. Ive read how expensive new fuel lines can be (professionally replaced) and have considered the nylon alternative?
4) Theres a rust hole clean through the rear passenger side floor pan. Im thinking of a "miracle paint" fiberglass patch kit will be sufficient for this.
Sorry my photos appeared to have rotated upside down. Ive attached some more pictures of the body. The roof is obviously in rough shape, but most of the paint actually looks decent. Dont want to regret a cheaper paint job if i could have carefully primed and sprayed the necessary spots. Ive never done any body work before.
I have same rust issue as you do. I am waiting for warm weather to kick in to begin fixing rust on my Benz. Depending on where you are located rust fix could be pricey or cheap, i think. Home - Rust Repair Panels has all the body parts like rocker panels and floor pans. They are cheap! I am in New York and body shops are just way too expensive here. I've welded a piece of floor pan to close the hole and I am still planning to cover it with fiberglass and miracle paint. I also bought the rocker panel and was ready to weld it on, but then I thought I should use fiberglass and miracle paint instead. I am waiting for warmer temperature because minimum temperature required for miracle paint is 60F and for POR-15 is 45F. I've had my car for 2 months and I am still chasing down leaks I decided to strip floor pan on the inside of all sound proof coating to expose metal and any underlying rust issues. I am glad I did because water from the leaks originating in the front all ends up in the back and it gets there under soundproof coat. So rust already started to form in some other areas.
I emailed mercedessoruce.com photos of my rust hole which was a big hole asking them if their product is good to repair the thole and they e-mailed back to me saying YES. I also came across a blog of some marine enthusiast who fixed his Merc like he would fix the boat with fiberglass and miracle paint (or was it POR-15?) 3 years ago, and he is claiming the repair is still good and holding up very well.
I suppose fiberglass and miracle paint provides less structural strength to the repaired parts/spots, but it's OK because most of the time I am driving in the envirnment where everybody goes 30 miles/hour.
So I am very optimistic about being able to repair with fiberglass to turn my car into a solid daily driver.
That cracked rustproof coating next to subframe connector is where rocker panel meets floor. This one if not stopped will eventually rust out all the way to the front seat.
Our you sure, that fuel isn't leaking from one of the three rubber lines coming off the fuel tank? If that steal line was/is leaking the car would also suck air and thus run bad. It "could" be the return or vent and that wouldn't introduce air but I would look at the rubber lines before I condemned the steel lines...
That rust is only the tip of the ice berg, pop out the battery and battery tray....see whats under there...Then pop off the fender and see whats there...There is also a thick rubber coating under the car...attempt to peal this and it will reveal more...
Best thing to do is to just drive it till it won't go anymore...
I know for certain the steel line leaks. Its about the size of a needle tip and when the rubber bracket is removed and I scrap away whatever glue is keeping it together it leaks and very fine, pressured stream of fuel. For whatever reason the bracket and whatever glue is there prevents it from leaking to bad. I feel bad when theres a good stain in the parking lot after sitting at the store for a few hours. :| Any idea what a replacement steel line could cost? Ive read between $500-1000
Im going to proceed with the miracle paint kit to patch the floor. Should I scraped the ENTIRE rubber undercoating off the undercarriage? I was thinking about maybe doing this and coating it with POR15 follow buy some new rubber undercoating. My fear is that I will open a can of worms :frown
If you have a rust hole in the back passenger floor area, it's highly likely that there's more hiding.
Get a heat gun and melt away the sound dampening material on the floor. I can bet you'll find a lot more rust down there.
Rust is what kills these cars i'm afraid. My first 300D was a north eastern car and the poor thing rusted out from beneath me before I couldn't take care of it anymore.
Hey okyoureabeast thanks for sharing your thoughts. It feels like war on rust is like war on drugs -- cannot be won. However I am going to be optimistic and try my best to tackle the problem beginning with sound proofing removal, etc. I am not willing to give up on my Benz. Already put a lot of effort into it. Did compression test today -- 400psi on all cylinders. So engine is good, transmission is good, driveshaft is good, great interior, paint job turns heads, etc, etc.
At this point I feel that the really good job for replacing metal parts and welding can only be done by professional shop. So I am going to try fiberglass and por-15 or miracle paint. It's either this or cover rust holes with a rug and keep driving until it gets it.
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