Well known for being one of the most common sources of electrical problems on our W123s, the decision was made to go ahead and replace most of the old electrical components starting with the cheapest and most basic upgrades first.
Battery Cables and Fuses typically seem to be the weakest links in our electrical systems. The easiest of those to fix is the negative battery terminal cable, second the fuses (to be covered in a different thread). Many just assume their cable is fine and is not the source of their electrical problems. However, after reading literally hundreds of threads where individuals thought theirs were ok, then replaced a half a dozen parts only to realize it was the original battery cable that was the problem. Moreso than that, aesthetically, mine was looking pretty tired and ugly with corrosion starting to show a bit so I wanted to replace it to match the brand new battery I just got for her.
I chose to upgrade to battery cable to a 2AWG for a far superior ground connection. Another thing I like about the upgrade cables is they have sealed end connectors done properly so none of the copper is actually exposed to the elements, which should minimize corrosion over the long run (unlike the stock cables). Also the angle of the connectors is better than the stock ones.
In addition, I wet sanded the chassis ground surface and also sanded the original bolt & washer to get all the paint/corrosion off of the mounting surface for a better electrical connection. I also used a battery wire brush ($3 at auto part store) on the battery terminal to brush off any potential corrosion and also the inside of the new SAE batter cable connector to ensure it was the best connection possible.
The new cable was purchased on ebay for only $12 shipped and can be ordered in any length possible. I am actually getting a custom set of cables made for the W123 chassis by the same seller that has all the appropriate W123 connectors and etc. For our application, a 12” long cable with loop connector on one end and the standard SAE connector on the other end will work perfectly. Also, the
Conclusion:
Before this upgrade I noticed the cars electrical system would bog when pushing the window switch down, and the windows would roll up slowly. After attaching the new battery cable, I noticed the car cranked up much faster on cold startup, and the windows rolled up faster without feeling as strained. Overall for $12, worth every damn penny.
I will be upgrading the positive cable (purchased a good OEM sample and will be sending it off to be replicated perfectly to OEM standards) and the battery seller should be offering the cable to the W123 community on ebay shortly making the upgrade far easier than ever before for a true OEM plug-n-play solution for our cars. Your welcome
Link:
2 Gauge AWG 100 Copper Heavy Duty Custom Battery Cable Power Wire Golf Cart Car | eBay
Battery Cables and Fuses typically seem to be the weakest links in our electrical systems. The easiest of those to fix is the negative battery terminal cable, second the fuses (to be covered in a different thread). Many just assume their cable is fine and is not the source of their electrical problems. However, after reading literally hundreds of threads where individuals thought theirs were ok, then replaced a half a dozen parts only to realize it was the original battery cable that was the problem. Moreso than that, aesthetically, mine was looking pretty tired and ugly with corrosion starting to show a bit so I wanted to replace it to match the brand new battery I just got for her.
I chose to upgrade to battery cable to a 2AWG for a far superior ground connection. Another thing I like about the upgrade cables is they have sealed end connectors done properly so none of the copper is actually exposed to the elements, which should minimize corrosion over the long run (unlike the stock cables). Also the angle of the connectors is better than the stock ones.
In addition, I wet sanded the chassis ground surface and also sanded the original bolt & washer to get all the paint/corrosion off of the mounting surface for a better electrical connection. I also used a battery wire brush ($3 at auto part store) on the battery terminal to brush off any potential corrosion and also the inside of the new SAE batter cable connector to ensure it was the best connection possible.
The new cable was purchased on ebay for only $12 shipped and can be ordered in any length possible. I am actually getting a custom set of cables made for the W123 chassis by the same seller that has all the appropriate W123 connectors and etc. For our application, a 12” long cable with loop connector on one end and the standard SAE connector on the other end will work perfectly. Also, the
Conclusion:
Before this upgrade I noticed the cars electrical system would bog when pushing the window switch down, and the windows would roll up slowly. After attaching the new battery cable, I noticed the car cranked up much faster on cold startup, and the windows rolled up faster without feeling as strained. Overall for $12, worth every damn penny.
I will be upgrading the positive cable (purchased a good OEM sample and will be sending it off to be replicated perfectly to OEM standards) and the battery seller should be offering the cable to the W123 community on ebay shortly making the upgrade far easier than ever before for a true OEM plug-n-play solution for our cars. Your welcome
Link:
2 Gauge AWG 100 Copper Heavy Duty Custom Battery Cable Power Wire Golf Cart Car | eBay