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What did you do to your W123 in 2016?

25K views 227 replies 45 participants last post by  unimogken 
#1 · (Edited)
Welcome to the New Year!

Today I had diarrhea. That was rather sh!tty.

But I persevered in my quest!

I removed and swapped the strainers. Those were so tight, I hurt my hands quite bad to get them out. Fortunately, both were clean.

Remind me why we don't want the fine mesh strainer on diesel cars? All the other filters are finer than gasser equivalents...

I installed the exhaust. It felt heavier than I remember... but then it is made of 0.063" (1.6mm) stainless steel. I have ordered the MB exhaust hangers with the chains(?) inside, but I couldn't get the rear ones on. So I temporarily installed simple round ones. I'll heat and bend the arms tomorrow.

I installed the air filter after installing the exhaust, because there is much more space without the air cleaner installed.

I filled up the tank with diesel, the transmission with oil (after identifying two leaks cause by two slightly loose bolts), primed the fuel system, and attempted once again to bleed the brakes with my pressure bleeder. Seriously, I watched several Facetube videos on the subject, and I just couldn't replicate the ease with which they do it. But the brakes seem to be bled and working. My father has offered to help me check and bleed them tomorrow, if need be, in exchange for me helping him connect his new spot lights to his pickup.

The battery is quite flat, so I'm charging it overnight. All the switches, cables etc are connected, but I'll give everything a once-over tomorrow, before cranking.

A day late, and more than one dollar short. But it's time:D

Did I mention that I installed the 300D badge? It seemed appropriate, since the engine is now in.
 
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#83 ·
Copied from the 280TE Owners Thread:

I just purchased a 1982 Grey Market 280TE with 5-speed manual transmission. The car has heated seats, factory A/C, SLS suspension, and switch controlled height adjustable rectangle headlamps which have yellow fogs. There is also an almost complete AMG body kit, including front valance, side skirts, and tailgate spoiler.

The car is Navy in color, not sure what the actual color is called. Interior is currently Beige leatherette. No third row seating, but the back seats fold down in 1/3-2/3 separation. There is a roll-up mesh/cargo cover. Also, rear speakers in the head liner area near the hatch.

I purchased the car with 14" BBS Mahle honeycomb wheels. I currently have 16" Ronal R9 wheels on it to roll it as it goes through body repair, and also necessary necessary inspections to be able to get registered in the state of California.

The car has 160k miles on it.

The car was parked in front of previous owner's house, and there was a hit and run where someone hit the rear left corner of the car, and managed to not only side-swipe the left side, but also push the car into the car in front of it--the parking brake wasn't applied.

It was last registered in 2006, and will be going through a resto-mod. I have friends and acquaintances who are interested in helping me with this project, and I hope to keep updating on here as I go along.
 
#84 ·
Had a nice couple of days down here in South Louisiana. Great weather and time to work on my 77.

I changed the oil and filter. After checking the transmission fluid level, I added a small bit (for the first time in about 6 months). I adjusted the engine idle down a bit. I checked the torque on the valve cover nuts (they were ok).

Earlier I had removed the rear sway bar bushings and lubed them up due to squeaking. The bushings themselves looked great. They were not hard at all. Anyway, the squeaking returned a few days later. So I removed them again and this time used Mobil 1 Synthetic Marine Wheel Bearing Grease. While down there I also lubed up the joints on the ends of the sway bar links. All is nice and quiet back there now.

Next up is my clock. I stops when it gets pretty cold outside. I'm going to Radio Shack (yes, we still have one!!) and buy 2 new 100 uf condensers.

Hope y'all have a good week.
 
#85 ·
As noted a few weeks ago, I replaced my "not so comfy" drivers seat bottom with one I pulled from the passenger's side of a PnP car. That cushion and springs were in perfect condition. I put it in car with the PnP car's original covering still in place so I would have time to get my original black seat cover cleaned up and refurbed. I had a local custom car upholstery shop fix it up for me. Today I removed the seat from the car and swapped on my "now great looking and very sound" seat cover. While at it I tore down the seat back and added some foam in the lumbar section. I also used some loctite when reinstalling the armrest assembly. So far every time I've removed the armrest the big nut that holds it on has been loose. Well, it will be tight from now on. I also loosened up the tension spring on the adjuster mechanism so the armrest will move easier.
 
#86 ·
I have to replace my W202's clutch master cylinder NOW! or she might fail me.

This is an expense I have not planned on, which will delay my W123 project by another month or so.

But I have decided on a bit of a gamble: I will install Donkey's clutch master cylinder on the W202, since they are the same unit, and Donkey won't be needing it anymore. So, that's something I'll be doing with a W123, I guess. (I will buy the new master cylinder anyways, and keep it sealed. There's no telling how long it'll be before the next master cylinder gives in.)
 
#87 ·
Did engine mounts on the wagon today, because for the longest time the car had been sounding like it was "running rough" with high vibrations. They resonated out of the engine bay throughout the cabin. Also, visually both mounts were horrible condition.

Bit of a bear of a job, decided to hoist the engine up from above (skidplate below) and replace them that way. Other than reaching the bolts this was a straight forward job, and the difference is amazing. Used Febi mounts stamped MADE IN GERMANY.

The car drives like new now, would highly recommend doing this if you are doubting your engine mount condition. 90% of vibrations are muffled or gone now, much smoother and more enjoyable to drive.
 
#90 ·
Should've taken a photo.

I'm still pondering the front seal leak. I was trying all week to find the sealed version of the input shaft bearing and the countershaft front bearing. The 4-spd has an open bearing, while the 5-spd has a double seal bearing.

The 5-spd bearing has the exact same inner diameter (30mm), outside diameter (68mm) and snap ring groove location. But it is 2mm wider (21mm) than the 4-spd bearing (19mm). On first glance they look significantly different. But on second glance they just might be interchangeable. There's only one way to find out - and it involves a hydraulic press, which I don't have...
 
#91 ·
Taking advantage of the long weekend.

Yesterday I mostly tried to solve the W202's (slightly less severe) leak with a follow-up treatment.

Today I tackled the W123 again. So far I've:

1. drained the fuel tank, again;
2. disconnected all electrics to the engine (bar the starter), again;
3. disconnected the accelerator cable and idle up cable, again;
4. loosened all the bolts connecting the engine to the chassis, again;
5. removed the prop shaft, again...

Tomorrow, after church, I'll decide whether to take the engine and transmission out together, then separate the two outside the car, or remove the transmission in the car, then lift out the engine. I also need some strange metric-size spanners and sockets for the crankshaft position sensor bracket and the damaged oil line's union.

I want to be done with the disassembly by Monday, so I can order parts and make my decisions.

I also realised today that I have two viable options for the balancer: the "new" balancer has a lightening hole exactly in the same place as "my" balancer, as well as one other. So I will need to drill a hole diametrically opposite the hole "my" balancer doesn't have, then adjust the difference - all and all, this "new" plate may be useful. But, if it isn't, I can replace the CP sensor bracket with the later design and add the pickup pin on "my" balancer.

Of course, either way will be done right, according to the FSM.
 
#92 ·
Today I removed the engine and transmission. I decided to remove them assembled, rather than by taking off the transmission first (like I had done up to now).

That was scary. And slow.

Then I took off the dreaded oil lines. The bottom pipe came off like it should, no hassle and no trouble; the top pipe is now well and truly...
 
#93 · (Edited)
The transmission climbed off the engine by itself! Or, at least that's what it felt like compared to the first two times I separated it from the engine...

I had to use generous amounts of heat and thread penetrating fluid to remove the front crankshaft bolt (to get the balancer off) and the bolt holding the crankshaft position arrow plate. I have performed a trial fit of the later style arrow plate, but it is too far away from the balancer to accurately read off the angle - guess it was meant for the automatic transmission-style balancer.

The oil lines have been thoroughly cleaned and will be taken to a hydraulic shop this week.

In other news: my shop smells like old curry fish. Blame it on the engine block and head sealer...
 
#94 ·
The balancer doesn't come off my engine with my three-prong puller. Now I have to find a piece of thick steel lying around, to make a proper puller.

The other balancer has its bearing installed, and is all ready and waiting. The shaft diameter is 36mm, but the closest bearing I could find has an OD of 35mm, so I had to press the bearing in with a 0.5mm shim.

The hydraulic shop failed to repair my hydraulic lines. Apparently it is impossible for them bend regular aluminium tube that gets used almost everywhere by almost everyone... They removed the crimps and replaced the hoses, although I have to purchase clamps - considering they did it for free, I guess that's a minor expense. But, more worrying is the fact that they replaced the broken metal tube with just a rubber hose, and then the nut can't even turn! I guess I'll have to make a plan myself. And start looking for a replacement metal tube to purchase sometime in the future.

As I was walking to my work shop to cut some 3" steel tubes to make covers for my father's diesel tanks, my attention was drawn to an old pump mount. Way back when, the pump was driven by a conventional induction machine before being eventually replaced by a submersible pump. So I think I'll just cut off the base plate from that for material to make the puller for the balancer.
 
#97 ·
It sounds like you're using a puller that grips on the outside of the balancer. Don't do it that way use something like this =>



The screws screw into the balancer and the centre threaded bit pushes up against the crankshaft end. You can even replicate this tool with a bit of bar and some nuts welded onto the back so there's something for the screw.

Three pronged versions of this design are best =>



Gripping on the outside of the balancer is more likely to cause damage.
 
#95 ·
Valve adjustment, fix broken odometer, repair/paint driver's door (professionally)

Also it's good to be back
 
#98 ·
Today I cut me some steel with a blow torch. For the first time in my life! Yeah, Baby!

I cut the old rusted bolts of the old pump mounting plate, and took the mounting plate to my workshop. I spent most of the rest of the day measuring, cutting, drilling and threading the piece of steel to make me a balancer puller.

And then the balancer came off in under 5 minutes. It was almost anticlimactic.

Now, I shall take my time and proceed carefully tomorrow. But initial indications are that I may not have a lot of balancing to do. I don't believe in destiny, or coincidence, but it's almost as if this part of the process was meant to happen.
 
#102 · (Edited)
Well, another joyous, anticlimactic day.

I spent all of last night mentally preparing myself for a repetitive routine (check static balance, mark heavy spot, drill tiny hole, repeat). I had the tools, the guts, the FSM chapter.

Then I installed the two balancer plates diametrically opposite, as per the FSM, and gently turned it clockwise, then counter-clockwise. Twenty times I turned it, and twenty times the pair came to rest in a different position. How often do I buy something that is this perfectly matched to my vision of the outcome?

So I took off the new balancer, pressed out the bearing and shin, and installed it onto my engine.

Since Stretch asked so nicely, here are some pics, all taken after the excursion.

This is the old pump motor mount frame, from which I cut the baseplate. The pump is under the cover, which used to be oriented to cover both the pump and the motor. But the pump has been changed to a submersible type, so there's no need for a separate motor.


This is where the baseplate used to be.


This is what's left of the baseplate...


...and here is its first evil offspring.


Here is the original balancer, still with its bearing and shim, still installed on the purpose-built balancing frame and shaft.


(I am embarrassed about the current state of my shop. But cleaning it now will only kick up bags of dust, which will end up in far worse places than now...)

Here is the new balancer installed on the engine, torqued to 280Nm. Do you know how much 280Nm is? It's enough for little old me to actually lift the rear of the engine off the pallet!


I haven't performed any adjustments yet, just got everything as close to average position as possible. Yet this is the view from the top, looking straight down the sensor bracket.


If only every job thus far had been as easy as this one...
 
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#105 ·
Well, another joyous, anticlimactic day.

I spent all of last night mentally preparing myself for a repetitive routine (check static balance, mark heavy spot, drill tiny hole, repeat). I had the tools, the guts, the FSM chapter.

Then I installed the two balancer plates diametrically opposite, as per the FSM, and gently turned it clockwise, then counter-clockwise. Twenty times I turned it, and twenty times the pair came to rest in a different position. How often do I buy something that is this perfectly matched to my vision of the outcome?
Don't think of it as an anti-climax. This is serious piece of mind. You've done the right thing to check it - now you know.


...

Since Stretch asked so nicely, here are some pics, all taken after the excursion.
I always try and be nice! Thanks for the pictures.


...

Here is the new balancer installed on the engine, torqued to 280Nm. Do you know how much 280Nm is? It's enough for little old me to actually lift the rear of the engine off the pallet!
...

This is why we need a decent fly wheel lock too!
 
#106 ·
And to make his crimes worse - he's the moderator!

How could he cut up a poor defenceless Mercedes and feed it to a BMW?
 
#107 ·
300D-Turbo

Had this work done in January:
Ignition switch, thermostat, radiator hose, valve cover gasket, crankshaft seal, waterpump gasket, oil pan gasket, thermostat gasket, oil seal, thermostat gasket, motor mount, gas charged lift support, mount bushing, seal, brake caliper right rear, brake pads rear.

April:
Oil change (synthetic) with filter $104. - is that to be expected?

Can I save much by doing it myself?

Driver's window replaced - just broke, or so the teens said ...

Replaced some interior trim pieces.

This is starting to add up ... I'm beginning to wonder if driving a 35 year old Benz makes sense ...
 
#108 ·
I wouldn't bother with synthetic oil on these cars. These aren't screaming race engines. (I use Caltex Delo 400, which carries MB228.3 approval) Even as our country's currency is going to hell, I can still replace all filters and the oil for under $60.

Having work done on these cars is expensive. Doing it yourself is very satisfying, generally not as difficult as we all tell ourselves in the beginning, and much more affordable.
 
#110 ·
So my older son taught me something about my car today. We were hanging out in the cabin with my younger one on my lap and the older one on the passenger front seat. He proceeds to start pushing buttons here and there, then manages to push and hold on to the Blaupunkt blue button, which turns on the radio (without the key).

I had forgotten about this feature when I read it on the installation instruction years ago, but never really used it. So we listened to some music, which calmed down my younger one, for a few minutes, then I proceeded to turn it off completely.

Maybe this won't be the only time my son will teach me something about this car... :)
 
#111 ·
Things have been slow on the W123 front. But I replaced all the glow plugs to complement the new glow relay. I fixed the oil hose connector and installed the oil lines. And I finished installing the front pulleys after adjusting the tach sensor.
 
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