I think my car is due for another set of axles. The boots have been fine but I think I saw a new tear so I figured it's time to get replacements.
Obviously the most ideal would be the dealer - but are there reputable alternatives?
I've heard of EMPI, CVJ, Cardone, and FEQ. These all sound foreign to me. My axles are the annular type with "canned" ends (as opposed to the homokinetic type with allens on the inboard end).
Do shops over there not "service" axles anymore? I've never replaced a set on either my previous 230E or current 280E - I just remove them and have them inspected and re-booted. The joints do have some wear, but I reckon it's par for the course at the mileage.
I have had good luck with the ones I got at "Auto-Zone", fairly easy to replace and with lifetime warranty as long as they carry them I'll still be on the road...
I bought a set of the cheapest axles that Rock Auto was selling for my old 300D and they worked great for the time I had the car after the swap. I remember reading the brand had mixed reviews but they were cheap and I didn't need to send the cores back (I still have them) so thats why I went with them.
...
I've heard of EMPI, CVJ, Cardone, and FEQ. These all sound foreign to me. My axles are the annular type with "canned" ends (as opposed to the homokinetic type with allens on the inboard end).
If they are still functioning properly, the best thing would be to have your originals rebooted.
Used from a yard will still need rebooting soon.
Remanufactured ones have the hardened steel milled off.
New Asian imports (allegedly) don't last very long.
Mine aren't original anymore, before I knew better I had them replaced. I've heard about CVJ axles being good ones too; for those who got them, where did you purchase them?
Thanks for the correction about homokinetic vs annular. Are there different versions of the "can" style? How come there are two lengths specified? NAPA and Rock Auto states the same length variations:
26 1/16" Axle Overall Length vs 24 13/16" Axle Overall Length. Is there also a difference in the axle bolt size? I remember having this problem before. Short of removing what I have in the car, is there a way to figure out which length I have?
Thanks for the correction about homokinetic vs annular. Are there different versions of the "can" style? How come there are two lengths specified? NAPA and Rock Auto states the same length variations:
26 1/16" Axle Overall Length vs 24 13/16" Axle Overall Length. Is there also a difference in the axle bolt size? I remember having this problem before. Short of removing what I have in the car, is there a way to figure out which length I have?
As far as I am aware the W116 axle cans are of a bigger diameter (there's a hint to this written in the FSM) and the first generation W126 ones are of course longer than the W123 ones - the exact length, however I do not know. I guess this must be measured when the axles are collapsed - I'll have to check on that though...
...to the best of my knowledge the shims don't come with the axles. You might not need different ones from the ones you've got anyway.
When I replaced my axles in the last car, I replaced homokinetic with the same. There's a circlip inside the differential, and seals (that usually don't need replacement unless you damage one like I did). By the wheels, there are collapsible washers, though. I'm pretty sure it is recommended to replace those, and the bolts.
Why not pull a pair that look good, and reboot them?
The official Mercedes Axles
The new GKN listed as OEM at Partsgeek ones at over $333 each (I have not read of anyone buying these)
The above also sold on Amazon for $325+ with free shipping.
Rebuilt by that place in Colorado I think it is CVJ (partsgeek also sells these but you need to ship the cores)
Taking a chance an re-booting your own
I put Cardone Rebuilt Axles on My Car but after about 3+years the Boots started to crack and I replaced the Boots. No other issues with the Axles.
Of the Asian ones there is one version that is homokinetic and has the 2 Cans on each Axle. That avoids the Bolts coming loose as there is no Bolts
I think any of the Asian Axles should be bought from a local Parts Place and the Paperwork kept in a save place so that it is easier to exchange them if they fail or have a fitment problem.
No matter what Axles are used remember to retain the Spacers if your Differential/Axle has them.
I did not know about the Spacers and turned My old Axles in. It was possible that the Spacers could have stuck to the old axles. Lucky for Me they stuck to the Differential.
Peter, thanks for pointing out the GKN. I'm curious if they are OEM brand, but sold outside of the dealer (hence the lower price). Looks like GKN is an international brand also and the axles sold on Partsgeek.com made by GKN are new, not remanufactured. That's definitely a much better price than the $530 on PeachParts per axle!
The Amazon GKN axles for the W123 I've found are $400-ish but from seller AutoPartsWay.
Pat, keep shopping. There might be even a better price out there on them.
I have not read of anyone using the GKN Axles on any of the Forums I hang out on.
I also have not read of anyone buying a Metric Motors Rebuilt Engine on those forums Either. But, someone must be buying those Engines and the GKN Axles.
That is strange. I went back to Amazon and when I searched a few hours ago they showed 3 sellers. The Axle with the Cheapest price was sold by Amazon itself. Could it be that they only had one left and someone bought it?
Gee, it does not cost so much to rebuild your Non-turbo Engine yourself.
The terribly expensive part is if the Intermediate Shaft needed to be replaced.
There was some guy on eBay selling Made in Taiwan Pistons for the Non-turboed Engines. So they were rather reasonable.
A Member of one of the Mercedes from the UK bought some and said He would report back but I never saw Him post on that.
This is what one of our Members told Me.
Apparently it is better just to bore out the Original Liners for oversized Pistons:
"Notes concerning Cylinder Liners
Hey Peter, This is what I've seen about the liners. The liners look like they have a finished hone, but they are not sized properly ( I think it's like over 89mm but under 90mm). When pressed in the block, they get squished a bit more. So a finish boring needs to be done. Also the tops of the liners need to be decked for a proper seal to the head.
Regarding the service manual, I am not following section that talks about motors come from the factory with liners. Are you talking about re-manufactured motors? The original factory liners can be bored out safely. I personally spoken to Metric Motors about this and they overbore their motors using the factory installed liners. Their reasoning is if the liners are in good shape it is too much risk and not worth it to press out, press in, bore and deck the liners, when they could just only bore the liners. Typical piston replacements are std. .25mm over and .50mm over. I've seen 1mm over but they were not from OE Kolbenschmidt or Mahle. I would be weary about going over .5mm."
I have both axles replace on the my 240D with the axles from Mercedes . about 5 years ago ( I do not drive it much ) have not been a problem.
yes higher cost . but will last longer. lest problems also .
I have both axles replace on the my 240D with the axles from Mercedes . about 5 years ago ( I do not drive it much ) have not been a problem.
yes higher cost . but will last longer. lest problems also .
Is it recommended to switch between annular and homokinetic types? The only new axles that is semi-affordable (still expensive, but better since it's new) are GKN. My mechanic said this is a good brand.
I don't think it matters even if you have one type on one side and the other on the other side. I think they extend the same amount and I think they both fit within the holes on the differential.
Now for the 100% honesty bit! I have never heard about annular axles not fitting to a differential. I do, however, know that the earlier differentials have a slightly different design and sealing rings on the caps next to the output shafts. So there might be a problem of fitment there => I estimate the chances to be small though. But I can't be 100% sure so be warned if you are swapping from one type to another make sure you can send them back if they don't fit.
I had thought GKN was an OE supplier for VW, leading me to believe they were originally German. Who knows where they are now; everything changes... :-(
As for EMPI; they were a Good aftermarket company that made parts for air-cooled VWs way back when. That is still the case, but they now have a Chinese factory making New axles for a number of vehicles. They were and are pretty much the go-to for cheap axles for a VW, I have not heard of any problems with them.
I've rebooted many axles on many different vehicles. If my two W123s had annular joints, I would've rebooted them too and not be out nearly $700 the two pairs of CVJ cost me!. Otherwise, there was nothing wrong with the old axles. The crappy-design homokinetic joints Mercedes used just frustrate rebooting unless one has the special tools.
That's one of the reasons I also opted for the annular joint axles. Right now I do not have the time and resources to reboot axles, let alone pull some from a W123 found at the yard. So my plan is to have these put on the car to last me a while.
How are the CVJ's faring (and how long have you had them)?
You'll notice that a few posts back (but over a year ago) he had already had them for 4 years and said the boots look new.
For what it's worth, I have a pair of CVJ's on my 300D that have 5000 miles on them so far and they are perfect. So I'm looking forward to them going the long haul. The boots look a lot like boots on your GNK. They are likely OEM boots. Very thick. Should be extremely durable.
At the risk of sounding argumentative (and that isn't my intention) - have you ever managed to get a shop to honour a "lifetime warranty" on a car part you've fitted yourself? Isn't it all just a load of marketing BS?
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