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Old 06-26-2012, 12:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
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OM617 Blow By - How to Handle?

Do any of you have a proven solution for handling the large amount of blow by on 123 diesel engines that are getting tired? My OM617 has about 257k on it, and has so much blow by that it is condensing a lot of engine oil in the trap within the air cleaner housing. So much that it is leaking out of the intake manifold seal and onto the ground.

Replacing the seal to the manifold inlet didn't help. I know the only good solution is to rebuild the engine to tighten it up, but I figured one of you might have an interim solution that works well.

Thank you!
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Old 06-26-2012, 05:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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If you want a snake oil reco: try Marvel Mystery Oil. Follow instructions on bottle.

My w123 has 220k miles and i know blow by is just an inescapable reality for the mileage. Reading an article from this board abut this decades old additive, I added MMO just before an oil change but ran maybe 2 full tanks worth of gas and deliberatly drove with a tad more gusto. In the end, I cannot tell any difference but surely can report zero effect on engine's health. The air filter maybe had less oil when cleaning out 5k later, and also feel gas economy improved a bit. It's $5 bucks so you can't lose anything.
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Old 06-26-2012, 06:26 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Don't put the Marvel Mystery Oil in the Engine Oil. I am not in favor of diluting your Engine Oil with anything.

You can remove Glow Plugs or Injectors and dump it into the Cylinder. The catch is you need to leave it there for a Week or more. Somewhere inbetween rotate the Engine a little and add some more.
This only helps if you have sticking Piston Rings.

The Marvel Mystery Oil soak worked on my Volvo that had hazy gray smoke all of the time but did nothing for my Mercedes.

Some say you can achieve the same results by switching to Synthetic Oil and driving 200-300 miles or more that it takes to work.

Some people have removed the top of the Breather in the Air Filter and sealed the edges with Silicone Sealant and had that work. Sometimes the Drain Tube or Check Valve is clogged.

This was my solution:
Washable Air Filter and Intake Mod , With Larger Breather
Washable Air Filter and Intake Mod , With Larger Breather - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

Some people have bought or made a larger Crankcase Breather. Some of them just go down to the Ground insted of into the Air Intake.

Bad Valve Stem Seals and worn Vaves/Guides can cause Blow-by at idle.
I replaced my Valve Stem Seals; cheap but a little work. It did not help me to the extent I could tell the difference.

My own thouth is that having the correct Valve timing and Fuel Injection Pump Timing keeps the combustion happening when it is supposed to and the Piston in the proper Position whe ignition starts could also reduce Blow-by.

If you have been using an alternative type Veggie Fuel that has been noted for coking up Piston Rings.

Last edited by 300Dman; 06-26-2012 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 06-26-2012, 08:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I used an electric smog pump to suck out the blow by gasses though an air/oil separator and then vent to a pipe under the engine. Immediately all the oil that would build up around the oil filler cap, valve cover gasket, and air filter were gone.
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Old 06-28-2012, 04:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vprzebinda View Post
I used an electric smog pump to suck out the blow by gasses though an air/oil separator and then vent to a pipe under the engine. Immediately all the oil that would build up around the oil filler cap, valve cover gasket, and air filter were gone.
-v
Excellent idea, do you have any photos?? I made a oil fog trap with a can but it didn┤t work perfectly.
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Old 06-29-2012, 03:58 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I used this pump:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9LARQ/ref=pe_175190_21431760_cs_sce_dp_1_A
you have to use a resistor or something to limit the current into it else it'll burn out after a few hours. I used a pulse with modulator circuit.

So it goes from crankcase -> air/oil separator -> pump -> the road.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:12 AM   #7 (permalink)
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There is a problem with the oil separators on these cars. The plastic cap is not sealed tight to the can. This allows the blow by gasses and vaporized oil to enter the filter housing. This is why most people find oil in there. I removed the cap and wrapped the contact edge with several layers of electrical tape then re-assembled. There is no oil in the housing after about 500 miles of driving.
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Old 07-01-2012, 05:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vprzebinda View Post
I used this pump:
Amazon.com: ACDelco 215-425 Air Pump: Automotive

you have to use a resistor or something to limit the current into it else it'll burn out after a few hours. I used a pulse with modulator circuit.

So it goes from crankcase -> air/oil separator -> pump -> the road.
The link is not working.
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Old 07-01-2012, 07:46 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If you do a google or eBay search you can see some pictures.
ACDelco 215-425 New Air Pump, GM 12568324. On eBay they are selling in $130-$150 range.

If you get the info off of eBay as to what vehicles they go on one might get one at the Junk Yard.
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Old 07-02-2012, 08:56 AM   #10 (permalink)
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When I was at the junk yard last week, I conveniently happened to notice many Audi, VW, and Volvo vehicles had an air pump on them. Google search "Audi Air Pump" and under images you'll see what I'm talking about.
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