Yes, it works opposite to the well-up method. When the piston of the pump moves up, the connection between the fuel gallery and the piston is closed off, hence no fuel comes out. First it starts dripping, then no fuel at all.
Vehicle: 198? euro 300D benz 1971 dodge dart swinger 1978 300D US spec 1974 240D
Location: Vallejo, ca
Posts: 427
ip timing sucks....I never want to do that again, but I have to say I probably will. Its not like its hard, its just the most frustrating thing in the world....trying to pump the primer pump to get continuous pressure and watch the drips, then attempt to slightly move the pump to get drips...then the pump moves while your primering....I now have the theory...if the cars running....don't even look at or touch the magical ip pump lol
Before you do any rotating of the Fuel Injection Pump scribe a mark a crossed the Pump Flange to the Engine so you can return the Fuel Injection Pump to the original spot if you run into a problem.
The Engine needs to be rotated Clockwise as viewed from the Crankshaft Damper end of the Engine.
If you are adjusting the timing on an Engine that has been running OK the timing is most likely just a little be retarded/late. What this means is that if the Fuel Injection Pump needs to be moved it is only going to be a tiny amount.
What makes the Movement easier is to remove all of the Fuel Injection Hard Line Tubing.
With Crank Shaft Damper lined up on 24 Degrees BTDC (on the compression stroke) and the Drip Tube in place Pump on the Hand Primer and see what happens.
If the Fuel Injection Pump needs to be rotated loosen the Fuel Injection Pump Flange Nuts and just nudge the Fuel Injection Pump a tiny bit.
Leave it like that and pump on the Hand Primer and count the drips; If the IP moves line it back up with your scribed mark and snug down one Nut enough that you can more the Fuel Injection Pump but at the same time can still pump the Hand Primer.
So basically you move the Fuel Injection Pump a tiny increment; stop; Pump the Hand primer and count the drips when the pressure is up. If it needs to be moved repeat.
Rotating the top of the Fuel Injection Pump towards the Engine Block advances the Timing. Moving towards the Fender Well retards the timing.
Before you do any rotating of the Fuel Injection Pump scribe a mark a crossed the Pump Flange to the Engine so you can return the Fuel Injection Pump to the original spot if you run into a problem.
...
X2 then you don't have to wish you could turn back time (like Cher).
__________________
1981 300D (non turbo) 123.130
Ain't got no money, got no house on the hill
Tell me honey, will your lovin' pay my bills?
Thanks.. i am doing it now. It was at 18 degrees and may explain why it was running like crap.
Quick question. Am i adjusting the pump forward or back? Advance as in 18-24? It is consusing because it is a countdown.
I am NEVER doing that again! I finally got good results using the well up method and then placed the drip tube to test it. Car is running fine. I am so unhappy with this adjustment. There has to be a better way!
There are better ways but they involve quite costly equipment. You can for example, get piezo-electric clamp attachments that go on the injector supply pipe. These are connected to a strobe light that you then shine down on the scale at the crank (much like a strobe light timing check for a petrol engine only here 'cos you've got a diesel there's no spark for the signal - so that signal comes from the piezo-electric crystal). However, I think you are then not measuring begin of delivery - more like the bulging of the pipe before the injector lets go...
...and were talking really really small amounts of movement here - distances that are not measurable with a micrometer (even if you could measure a dynamic event with a static measurement instrument).
Hey, I knew my method wasn't perfect so I took another crack at it using the "bubble up" method (I know some people hate it...). What I realized is that I when I am at 24 TDC, my 2 front valves do not look like a V or bunny ears. The one closest to the front is pretty much on its side while the other one is at about 10-11 O'clock.
Whenever I move my IP around I can never get it to drip one second, well up, or stop allowing air bubbles. It seems that something is bigger here. Chain stretch? Jumped teeth? What do you all think. I have read just about every thread for answers and I haven't been able to make any conclusions.
Sorry for the question, I,ve finally got my engine on my 83 300cdt, and finally started it. When I had the engine out I adjusted valves and hooked the ip and adjusted it, now when I started the car in makes a lot of noise and blows lot black smoke, so I set the engine at 24 and tried the drip method but no diesel came out, I moved the Ip towards my fender and I am not able to make it drip am I doing something wrong? Sorry to go on somebodies thread but sounds like we are on the same boat ip's
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
