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Old 01-26-2012, 03:36 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Rear axle bearings

I have a slight bit of play on both rear wheels . I was thinking of retorquing the bearings as a means to remove the end play........anyone have any thoughts on this?"..........tks.......Vince
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Old 01-26-2012, 08:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vince007 View Post
I have a slight bit of play on both rear wheels . I was thinking of retorquing the bearings as a means to remove the end play........anyone have any thoughts on this?"..........tks.......Vince
The end play on the Rear Wheels is adjusted differently than you would think; there is no Torque spec on the Retaining nut.

There is a Spacer/Collar inside between the Inner Bearing and the Hub that is designed to be crushed.
You tighten the Inner Nut with the special Pin Wrench while checking the end Play on the Hub with a Dial Indicator.
Once the End Play is obtained the locking washer is crimped into some of the spaces on the Locking Nut.
If you tighten it up too much you have to take it apart again and sart over with a new Sleeve/Collar; because the original has already been crushed too much.

The problem with taking the Rear Wheel Hub off again to change the Sleeve/Collar is that the Bearing get damaged as the Manual calls for the use of a Slide Hammer to remove the Hub.
Owners have found that you can attach an Old Brake Rotor Backwards on the Rear Hub and use that to beat on with a Hammer instead of using a Slide Hammer.

I would do some searching for a more detailed description of the Job.
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Becareful about damaging the Rear Hub as they are over $300 new and as you will see not so easy to remove at the Junk Yard. The inner part where the Treads are is rather thin and if you beat on it it can bend.

Last edited by 300Dman; 01-26-2012 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 01-27-2012, 02:46 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 300Dman View Post
The end play on the Rear Wheels is adjusted differently than you would think; there is no Torque spec on the Retaining nut.

There is a Spacer/Collar inside between the Inner Bearing and the Hub that is designed to be crushed.
You tighten the Inner Nut with the special Pin Wrench while checking the end Play on the Hub with a Dial Indicator.
Once the End Play is obtained the locking washer is crimped into some of the spaces on the Locking Nut.
If you tighten it up too much you have to take it apart again and sart over with a new Sleeve/Collar; because the original has already been crushed too much.

The problem with taking the Rear Wheel Hub off again to change the Sleeve/Collar is that the Bearing get damaged as the Manual calls for the use of a Slide Hammer to remove the Hub.
Owners have found that you can attach an Old Brake Rotor Backwards on the Rear Hub and use that to beat on with a Hammer instead of using a Slide Hammer.

I would do some searching for a more detailed description of the Job.
Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

Becareful about damaging the Rear Hub as they are over $300 new and as you will see not so easy to remove at the Junk Yard. The inner part where the Treads are is rather thin and if you beat on it it can bend.
thanks I'll watch for your suggestions when i attempt this tomorrow, My experience with taper roller bearings is zero end play is desirable. The crush sleeve appears to be a device that makes up for assemble dim controls from the factory. An easy way to facilitate sizing when stacking many parts together. So if I were to continue to crush the sleeve ( in theory) I would be taking up slack that has resulted from normal wear on the bearing. Hopefully I'm on the right track.......tks ....Vince
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Old 01-27-2012, 06:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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One of my new rear bearings loosened a little after installation and I did what you are going to do. Be very careful tightening the play. Take it 1/16 turn at a time and recheck. It doesn't take much to overtighten the crush sleeve.
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Old 01-27-2012, 07:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
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The Rear Spacing Sleeve I drew in Red.
The set end play is 0.04-0.06mm

If Shims had been used instead of the Crush type Spacing Sleeve a person would have to some how pull out the inner Bearing (without damaging it) each time the Shims needed to be changed.
Or, Mercedes would have used a different locking Nut system.

What I do not like about the system (besides a lot of work and the need for a special tool) is that Beating the Hub out damages the Bearing/s.

I managed to crack one of my Trailing Arms (I ran over a 3" high Traffiic Island at about 45 mph); it had some rusth holes in it.
I changed the whole Rear Trailing Arm with a used one.

Later I aquired the Special Tool to turn the Nut and I also found out how much the a New Rear Hub costs and decided to salvage the Hub and keep it.

I used the reversed old Brake Rotor and beat on it method. It took considerable beating to get the Hub out. So I can see how that damages the Bearings.
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