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Hooking up the Bosch Duraterm Glow Plug Kit

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18K views 20 replies 8 participants last post by  Altan97  
#1 ·
Recently I had an issue with the glow plugs in my '79 240D, so I decided to upgrade to the Fast Glow kit from Bosch. Unfortunately, the kit is a generic one for all cars from 1961 to 1985 and the instructions aren't very clear. Since everyone here was too busy talking about Euro bumpers and what MPG they get to answer my questions, I had to figure it out on my own.

The Bosch kit comes with four pencil-style glow plugs, a new Timer module with wiring harness, five plug wires, four hand tighten nuts and a small replacement glow plug light. Nothing in the instructions mentions that last one, but apparently it's an LED replacement.

Here's the included instructions:

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At first I was concerned that there were parts missing, as the instructions talk about an additional relay and fuse, but this is only for 5 cylinder cars.

Figuring out power and ground was straight forward, but 15 and 50 didn't make any sense to me. Looking at the wiring schematics from the FSM very carefully, it begins to clear up:

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Looking around the inside line of the Glow Timer box, you'll see the above mentioned numbers 15 and 50, while the outside shows the pin out. With this info, we can now proceed.

First step is to remove the underdash panels to gain access to the existing Glow Timer. I ran the included wiring harness through an unused hole in one of the firewall grommets that run the vacuum lines, and pulled it into the footwell to leave only a bit of slack based on where I was mounting the new module.

Most how-tos online recommend just hooking up the glow plugs to the existing timer, but in my case it was blown, so rather than spend hundreds of dollars for a plug-in replacement, I just used the timer that comes with the kit. The new module has extra functions and is a vast improvement over the old one, allowing much quicker starts and a "afterglow" feature that pulses the plugs during warm up.

Once you've located the old timer, the connector pops right off, and you can remove the plug cover to gain access to the wires. I decided to leave my existing module in place and solder up the included harness to the plug, so that switching back to the old timer would still be possible.

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The pins used by the new Glow Timer are:

PIN 1 to PIN 1 - Ground
PIN 3 to PIN 4 - Starter Motor Signal
PIN 4 to PIN 3 - Ignition
PIN 7 to PIN 5 - Glow Plug Light

The other pins on the old harness aren't used by the new module. Another difference is that the new module sits in the engine compartment instead of under the dash, as it has a built-in temp sensor to tell how hot it is under the hood.

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I re-used the existing fuse and wire to hook up the plugs, and used the fifth wire in the kit to connect the module to the plugs.

A power wire needs to be run from the battery - in my case I ran it from the starter solenoid:

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After checking all my connections, I reconnected the battery and turned the ignition to run, and happily I saw the glow plug light. Button everything back up and you're good to go.

I highly recommend the conversion - the glow plug light rarely stays on longer than the seat belt light now, and the car starts right up and runs excellent.

For Googlers, here's some info on the kit I purchased:

Duraterm-Set - part # 0 250 201955
Glow Plug Timer Module - part # 0 281 003 005
 
#3 · (Edited)
#4 ·
Isn't there a plug and play kit specifically for w123's? DieselGiant sells the relay and says it is a 10 minute job....
That kit is for later cars with the relay in the engine compartment. Also, it is more than twice the price of the generic kit I used, and doesn't include the pencil-style glow plugs.

This job was less than half an hour worth of work.
 
#9 ·
Yeah dieselgiants prices are steep, but I was refering to the ebay link, the dieselgiant.com link was just to show that it's supposed to be a 10 minute plug and play job. Now people are already reading this thread and thinking they have to install a special relay, tap into the starter and relocate the relay to the engine compartment, but (unless the ebay auction is wrong) all they really have to do is unplug their old relay and plug in the new replacement with out a bunch of modifications, for the same price....if they want to install a generic relay and wire it up the way you did more power to them, but they should look into getting a direct replacement first, then wiring in a generic one if that works better for them imo.
 
#7 ·
[..] Since everyone here was too busy talking about Euro bumpers and what MPG they get to answer my questions, I had to figure it out on my own. [..]
glad you got it worked out. Your pictoral here will certainly help others trying to do what you have done.

But what we really want to know is when you plan on switching to euro bumpers and lights.
 
#10 ·
The ebay link is the same as the dieselgiant relay - it also does not include the glow plugs, and it's only for newer W123s with the relay in the engine compartment. It doesn't apply for cars like my 1979.

So, for $130, I got the relay *and* the glow plugs, which are better than the stock, original glow plugs in every way. I would hope no one chooses to just replace the relay when you can get a genuine *upgrade* to your glow plug system with the pencil-type plugs and improved starting times.
 
#14 ·
You don't think I looked? The only options for a direct replacement were from MB historical for $485(!) or buying an unknown condition used one off ebay for $50-$100. I would be surprised if anyone took that route.

Just using a newer relay isn't an "upgrade" - the upgrade part is replacing the loop-style plugs with pencil-style ones, especially since it would appear the newer style relay doesn't work with loop plugs anyway. If your existing timer is working, if you wire the pencil-style ones correctly it will work. I even said that in the original post.

However, since the kit comes with the newer style relay included, that offers a number of improvements, some people may choose to install it as well as the plugs, so this post is for those people so they don't have to spend time going over wiring diagrams in the FSM or archived internet posts.

So, as far as I'm concerned, this *is* the correct way to *upgrade* your car. A direct replacement is a way to *repair* your car.
 
#15 · (Edited)
There are upgrade fast glow relays that are direct replacement for oem relays that are plug and play, atleast on the newer models, I just assumed that there would be an upgrade for older models also, so what you are saying is that there is no plug and play fast glow relay upgrade for earlier 240d's? That the only option if someone wanted to upgrade their relay would be this kit? Obviously this isn't the correct way to go with newer models (could if they wanted too..I guess).

edit: Actually I don't think they are "fast glow" relays the main benifit is that they keep the glow plugs hot for more time after the car is started than stock relays.
edit: Rock auto has new relays for 1979 240d's for $55 fyi (the pictures shows them to be the under dash style).
edit: Peach parts has what looks like this same kit for $113 if it matters.
 
#16 ·
Fine, you win. I won't bother posting any more tech tips.

Where were you when I was asking my questions about the kit? Why is it only after I post a how-to based on what I could find you show up to hassle me?

As for Rock Auto's relay, that's a good find and an option for a stock replacement. Shipping it to Canada adds about $20 to the price, but doesn't include the pencil-type glow plugs. In my case, since I already had the kit with relay, I didn't bother searching any more.

Same shipping applies to Peach Parts. People can get the kit wherever they want, priced $100-$130 plus shipping. Whatever works for them.
 
#17 ·
I just installed this kit on my '77 240D, W123. This is definitely the kit you want to use as well as fantasygoat's write up for your directions. The directions that came with my kit had separate pages for 4 or 5 cylinder, so that helped. Use the new timer relay that comes with the kit!! It has some additional capabilities such as a pulse feature that aid in smoother idle at start up, less smoke, etc. I'm completely astounded at how much of an improvement it has made with my car. I used to have to keep the block heater plugged up because the old loop style just didn't have what it took. My car had sat for about a week without being plugged up when I got the kit installed. I turned the key to the heat position, let it hold for about 5 seconds and it fired right up. This kit is a "must" for your car if you have the old loop plugs.
 
#18 ·
I have had the Duraterm system in my 79 300TD for the last decade, installed by a shop.

When driving at night, I would notice that about 4 mins after startup my headlights would suddenly go much brighter. Something was putting a drag on the charge system.

I thought this was only because it took that long for the alternator to replace the charge lost due to glow and crank, so I lived with it.
In the winter with all accessories on, this never allowed me to do more than a few stops and starts when driving around town. But my wife and kids would need to be rescued with a jump start some times. The family began to hate this car that I love so much.

I finally pulled the relay and tested it on the bench. Discovered that the # 50 part of the system (black wire) activated by the crank, does not disable the current to the glow plugs when released. This is what it is supposed to do.
They only turn off once the timer lets go after a few minutes.

I wonder if the fault lies in the small auxiliary relay. The fuse between it and the large one would get really hot after startup.

Anyway I had a spare old black VDO relay designed for the turbos, which I connected to wires that went into the Duraterm (brown 31, red 15, black 50, green LA) and jumped out of my skin when the battery voltage read 14.5 within seconds of starting.

Any comments?
 
#19 ·
The black timer for the turbo's is switching the plugs off as soon as cranking has stopped. If the engine is warm and you have connected to the temp sensor, it might not even switch the plugs on much as it will get temp input to advise plugs are not required. Don't know much about the duraterm system, (appears I am too obsessed with my Euro Bumpers and MPG), does it have a temp input to tell it to switch the plugs off once the engine is warm ?
 
#20 ·
Yes, the black MB relay used on the turbos has a built-in temp sensor. I now have one of those hooked up in my 79 NA 5 cylinder and everything is good.

I recall reading somewhere that the Duraterm's temp sensing is related to the feature whereby it sends separate currents, one to 4 plugs from the main relay, and one to a single glow plug via the auxiliary relay.
I tested the aux relay and with my limited knowledge but some patience this is what I see happening (sorry for being long-winded but I want to make sure that everything is covered, and please correct my mistakes):

When you activate the ignition switch sending light current to the main relay through red wire, #15, this makes the main relay connect up 4 plugs on the engine with constant live (i.e. it shorts the two posts on the outside of the main relay, one 10mm nut, one 8mm nut).

The same current flowing out the main relay's little post also activates the aux relay's solenoid. That allows current to flow from constant live, bypassing the main relay, through a fuse and the aux relay, to a single plug on the engine.

Somehow the system reads whatever signal is generated by a difference between the two currents and tells the lamp how long to stay on before the driver knows it's time to start cranking.

Once the lamp turning off tells the driver to crank the engine, black wire #50 shorts to ground tripping a switch inside the main relay while all the plugs are still glowing
When current through #50 is turned off by the driver releasing the key from crank, that should tell the relay to turn off all current from the small post to the plugs and the aux relay.
It is not doing that and current keeps flowing a full 4 minutes after the engine is running. So something must be faulty inside the relay.
If anyone can help me by letting me know what components to check on the circuit board, that would be helpful. I don't need to repair it, but being able to would be magic.