? replace o-ring at air cleaner drain tube bottom ?
Chasing oil leaks, and one place I'm suspicious of is the bottom end of the tube from the air cleaner to the oil pan. I spent (embarrassingly) over an hour trying to get the tube to wiggle up off the nipple on the bottom, but to no avail. I can't see, but identified by feel, a 'sandwich' clamp, bolted between (I think) the motor mount on the bottom, and the exhaust manifold on the top - then it has a smaller bolt clamping the 2 sides together, and around the tube, in the middle (I'm sure that didn't make any sense, but if you've attempted this, you know what I mean).
I managed to get the smaller bolt in the middle broke loose, but once it started turning, I'd need a 10mm something on the back side - damn, it's hard to reach, being under the turbo and all.
Then I managed to break loose the larger (17mm socket) bolt at the exhaust manifold, and same scenario - once it cracked loose, it just started turning, and it feels like the head of the bolt (engine side of manifold ear) sits in a recess, and there would be no way to get a box end or anything on it...
Can you tell I got frustrated? So now I have 2 bolt/nut combos loose, rattling around, but have accomplished little else, and still don't have the tube floating enough to replace that pesky o-ring...
So, anybody else done this successfully, and give me a clue?
It's the tube that slides on the nipple on the bottom of the air cleaner - and goes down around and under the turbo, and drops into the oil pan - right beside the drain tube off the bottom of the turbo...
oK, got 'er done. If anyone else wants to try this...
17mm on about a 6" extension on ratchet - straight in level under the turbo - hold back side of the bolt (it's through an ear on the bottom of the exhaust manifold flange) with a 17mm on a 6" breaker bar (I had the wife keep this one in place-- and work from the top, not under the car). Remove that bolt/nut, then feel the bracket down, and you'll find another 17mm activated nut on a stud - I think it's one of the motor mount bolts, but not 'fer shur'. Anyway, same 6" extension should get that.
If you want to, you can wiggle the entire tube up and out, but probably not necessary.
I set the RF wheel up on about a 6" block, rolled under, and after trying plenty of different tools, finally had success removing the old O-ring with the tip of a fillet knife. You'll find you can only really get to the 'nipple' with the O-ring with the tips of your fingers, as it's in behind the turbo drain tube - tricky - but once the old one is off, make a loop with a clean cloth, hook over the nipple, and pull one end, to remove any grime, etc, from the O-ring groove.
Next, make sure you get the proper size O-ring - it's the same size as required at the air cleaner. Installing the new ring is easy at finger-tip. Next, I sprayed a little silicone lube on the new ring/nipple, and re-installed the tube. The O-ring I chose is pretty darned tight, so re-installation was tricky. Work from the top. I ended up splitting a piece of firewood down to about a 1" square tamper, and used that atop the tube (fits down through the manifolds) with the aid of a small hammer, and finally talked the tube into seating fully on the nipple.
Now, time will tell if I have finally put a stop to those pesky oil spots that keep showing up on the back of my white wagon!
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