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Timing Chain Master Link - will Iwis work on the BECK ARNLEY CHAIN??

6K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  MBDiagMan 
#1 ·
I have a new Beck Arnley Chain which has been lying around and I'd like to make use of it. However, I need a master link for it before I roll it in and take the old one (275k miles on it) out. BTW, only 4.5 degrees off at this point in time. Not bad for the milage huh?!!

Can't find anywhere that has a beck arnley master.

So, anyone see a problem with me ordering the IWIS master link for the Beck Arnley chain??

Thanks a bunch.

Brad
81 MB 240d
 
#3 ·
On another Forum one of the members posted pics of an IWIS chain and another brand of chain. The better quality of the IWIS was obvious.

4.5 degrees considering the milage is not bad. I would opt to keep the origional chain and use an Offset Woodruff Key to restore the Camshaft Timing.

For others considering the above timing chain change you also are supposed to use a special timing chain crimping tool at $255 each or more.


I would eBay off the Beck Arnley Chain and save the Money towards an IWIS chain.
 
#5 ·
the JWIS master link is too big for the BeckArnley timing chain

Crap! Got the master link from the mercedes dealer and it is TOO BIG for the BeckArnley chain. Guess I better ebay it and get the IWIS after all.

Getting ticked that this 1 hour job is taking weeks now!!!!!
 
#8 ·
Crap! Got the master link from the mercedes dealer and it is TOO BIG for the BeckArnley chain. Guess I better ebay it and get the IWIS after all.

Getting ticked that this 1 hour job is taking weeks now!!!!!
It may have been a Beck Arnley Chain that was in that Pic I saw. As, that chain had smaller pins on the links and the Chain Rollers had a considerable gap between them and the Links. The IWIS Chain has bigger Link Pins and tighter way less clearance at the Rollers.

Buy the way Changing the Timing Chain appears to be one of those jobs that you do not want to rush through.
If you are careful you and up with everthing the same except that you have a new Chain installed.
A little sloppy and you end up with your Fuel Injection Pump off timing due to skipped teeth.
A lot sloppy and you end up with Valves making contact with the Pistons.

Although I managed to get a good price on eBay on the Timing Chain Crimping Tool at 200k + I had 2.5 degrees of chain stretch. This gives me Zero motivation to change the Timing Chain.
Another thing that would haunt me is that I have read some of the do-it-yourself Timing Chain installations (and some of the independant Mechanic done installations) do not make it past the first 100k.
Do not know if it is due to bad workmenship or a poor quality of chain used.

Some Members of another Forum I hang out at claimed they used a Ball Peen Hammer (I am not suggesting someone do this this) to Peen over the Link Pins. This is way too much adventure for me.

Another probem no one addresses is the Timing Gears themselves that must also wear. Especially the Crankshaft Gear which is the smallest and the one that has the most stress on it as it pulls everthing else.

Then there is those Timing Chain Rails.
 
#7 ·
I've never seen a problem with a master link fit regardless of the source of the link or the chain, but it's for sure that I haven't seen everything.

BTW, there is no need for the expensive crimper unless you are one to remove your valve cover periodically so that you can admire the beautiful crimp that it will make.

Simply put the link into place from the back. Feel of the plate with your thumb and forefinger to find the smooth side. Place the plate in place with the smooth side forward. Hold the link in place from the rear with a body dolly and then use the ball side of a ball peen hammer to peen the end of the pins in place. If you don't have a body dolly, use the head of a large hammer holding the head of the hammer rather than the handle.
 
#9 ·
The ball peen hammer method works great. It just doesn't make a crimp that is as pretty. I've peened at least a half dozen links in place with no issues whatsoever. There is VERY little tension on the crimp. The tension of the chain is at a right angle to the pin. The crimp just keeps the plate from falling off.

Most likely the reason for shorter chain life for replacement chains has nothing to do with the chain OR the installation of the chain. THe replacement chain is going into an old engine with old tensioner and rails, not to mention that many other things can happen to bring the engine to overhaul time. There's just no way, statistically, for the replacement chain to stay in there as long as the original.
 
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