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Feeding in timing chain, attaching to old chain

5K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  MBDiagMan 
#1 ·
I just the post on dieselgiant.com
How to Replace Your Timing Chain

I ordered a chain but it didn't come with a c-clip for the master link. It came with 2 end links that need to be pressed on. I'm not sure why there are 2 of them. 1 looks blue and the other one is the same color as the chain.

Anyway, I'm trying to find out how to attach the new chain to the old chain to feed it through the engine. Does anyone sell a master link with a c-clip that I can temporarily use to feed the chain?

Thx

pete
 
#2 ·
You may be able to get them some place else but the Mercedes Dealer sells the Clip type Master link that is only only used to feed the Timing Chain through the engine. After that it is removed an replaced by the Master Link that nees a special Crimping Tool to peen over properly.

Can you post some pics of the Master Links that came with your chain. Also is it an IWIS Timing Chain?
 
#3 ·
As 300Dman said, this is the correct masterlink to be used for final assembly. Feeding the chain can be accomplished with a tiewrap or a piece of wire if you make darn sure it is together firmly before feeding the chain.

The masterlink that they sent you does not need the special tool. Once you have the chain in place and ready to secure the two ends of the new chain, get those ends positioned at the very top.

Feel of the Locking Plate with your fingers to determine which side is the sharp side and which side is the smooth side. Put the Pinned Link in place by sliding it through from the rear toward the front of the engine. Position your plate and lock plate in place with the SMOOTH SIDE OUT or forward. The sharp side will be toward the chain. This is so that you have a rounded edge over which to peen the pins. The smooth side should be forward even if you use the special tool.

Use a body dolly on the rear to hold the link firmly forward while using the ball side of a ball/peen hammer and peen the ends of the pins neatly and snugly against the Lock Plate.

If you don't have a body dolly for the back of the master link, use the flat portion of a good size hammer against it.

Be warned! This will not look as pretty as the peen that you will get with the expensive tool, but it will hold the link in place just as well. If you're one to remove your valve cover quite often so that you can admire the pretty master link peen done with the tool, then by all means come up with the money for the tool. If, on the other hand, you just want to get your engine back together well, the hammer and dolly works quite nicely.
 
#4 ·
Like the above post said, but I would rotate the engine just enough so the Master Link you are trying to peen is NOT sitting on the teeth of the cam gear! You risk breaking the teeth off if you do! I know someone who did this, broke a tooth offand we had to put on a new cam gear, not the end of the world, but more hassle than would have been necessary. :thumbsup:
 
#5 ·
If they broke the cam sprocket, they were not backing up their hammer blows properly with the dolly. If you press the dolly hard enough, it will take the force, not the sprocket.

As I think about it further, maybe I'm wrong. Maybe they were just beating the devil out of the pins with their hammer. The pins are easily mallable. It doesn't take hard hammer blows. It takes more than a light tap, but it takes nothing near the force that it would take to break a sprocket. Use your good sense to feel that you are putting an equal amount of force against the dolly that you are applying with the hammer. If the dolly force is too light, the dolly will bounce considerably away from the link. Also you want to hold enough force with the dolly to keep the link pins from pushing out rather than being held in place firm enough for the hammer to peen the ends, not push the pins out.
 
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