Balance between svo/wvo and biodiesel that solves the coking problem?
Hi. 599 pages is a bit daunting, so I decided to start this.
I've read a lot about how using svo/wvo can clog up a fuel system if the source oil is dirty (hydrogenized/glycerin/etc), combustion is incomplete (temp only 165F/185F/220F at the nozzle etc.), and etc.
I've read a lot about -- and experienced --how biodiesel cleans out a dino fuel system.
So, has anyone experimented, in a disciplined way, with a fueling schedule to see if, for example, running 10/20/etc. tanks of svo/wvo followed by a tank of biodiesel would reasonably mitigate some of these problems?
Thanks.
Kim
PS Dino diesel over $5 a gallon in Malibu.
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1980 300D 222,000 miles automatic Fattywagon Single Tank Kit conversion
1978 240D 317,000 miles 4-speed James Dutcher Custom Dual-Tank conversion
There is a search engine on this site you could use, but your best bet would be at a SVO/WVO/biodiesel forum, they would be alot more knowledgable not to mention experienced.
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'84 300DT 314k (w123);
'80 300SD (w116), two-tank fuel system
Balance between svo/wvo and biodiesel that solves the coking problem?
D2 and or B2/5/10/20 is all that should be used. WVO and SVO should never be used in any amount. If you insist on using WVO/SVO then you need to invest in a BioDiesel processor to remove the glycerin in VO that causes coking.
If you don't abuse your engine with crap fuel you won't have to worry about coking.
Please explain the mods that you have done to your car.
Hi Zedd,
Thanks for the re-direct to the svo/biodiesel folks.
I noticed on your "signature" that you have listed a lot of things that you have done to your car. Are you a diesel mechanic? I see that you have done things that appear to be custom -- the type of turbo (?), intercooler, oil filter bypass (what is that?), etc. Could you explain, or point me to a message of yours in which you've explained, these mods?