|10-13-2007, 03:13 PM||#1 (permalink)|
Driver door hard to close. Help
Why do i have to slam my door(driver's side) really hard for it to fully shut..Sometimes it takes 3-4 times to close it fully. It's annoying. Im sure this topic came up before, but as a newbie, anybody's input will help. Thanks!
..One thing Im afraid of is that when I die, my wife will sell all my stuff for the price I told her I paid for..
|10-13-2007, 05:12 PM||#2 (permalink)|
Date registered: Jan 2007
Vehicle: 1983 300D (magnesium brown)
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Most likely your door striker is bad. The striker has a rubber piece inside it that deteriorates. I had the same issue with my front doors when I bought my car (rear doors were fine) and replaced both. They are cheap, made in Germany by Miehle and pretty good quality. I got them from Autohausaz. You will good quality 5 mm hex socket (craftsman or like) to undo 4 bolts which hold the striker. Cheap socket will ruin bolt and than it is PITA to get them off. Do "door striker" search, there are loads of info. Remember to align new striker before tightening bolts.
Last edited by dentate gyrus; 10-13-2007 at 05:14 PM.
|10-13-2007, 07:04 PM||#4 (permalink)|
Date registered: Jan 2007
Vehicle: Elvira '84 300CD 238K miles, '87 300TD 175K, Sarah Jane '74 TR6 78K, OBK #27
Location: Houston, TX
Look at the latch and there should be a little piece of black plastic sticking out beyond the rim of the latch hole, that's the guide. If it's missing, your only choice is to replace the latch, as said above, they're reasonable and easy to replace.
|10-13-2007, 07:47 PM||#5 (permalink)|
Date registered: Oct 2006
Vehicle: 1979 280CE
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Well my drivers side was doing the samething and I had the mechanic put some grease in the stricker. He used some sort of foam type grease made for door strickers(thats what he said). It has worked great ever since, and the small plastic pieces are missing but I have no trouble closing the door. Put in some grease and see if it doesn't solve the problem.
'79 280CE with 226,000 miles
'76 240D 4 speed with 190,000
'85 300D Turbo with 266,000 miles
GONE but not forgotten
'76 300D with 195,300 miles
"83 300D with 174,000 miles
|10-14-2007, 09:09 AM||#6 (permalink)|
Ok..I'll try the grease for now..But I'll shop around for the door strikers..My friend told me the same thing, it's most likely the door striker.
|10-14-2007, 03:13 PM||#7 (permalink)|
Date registered: Jan 2004
Vehicle: W123, W201, W124
|10-15-2007, 06:24 PM||#8 (permalink)|
Date registered: Feb 2007
Location: Florida, USA
OK, the way you fix this situation is by adjusting the striker plate on the door. What typically happens as these cars get older, the doors that are used most (typically the driver's door) will sag on the hinges, and the door lock will get misaligned relative to the striker plate. Loosen the four Allen hex screws on the plate and then play around with the plate to reposition it correctly. I did this on two driver's door with good results. It takes a lot of trial-and-error repositioning, and some patience. Also, the screws may be rusted and very tight, so liberally spray with penetrating oil before loosening them. Use an Allen socket and ratchet to losen the screws. When trying to find the right position, only tighten two screws at a time gently and try to close the door.
Also, keep in mind that if no windows are open in the car, the door is more difficult to close, as the air inside gets compressed and there is some resistance to closing.
|10-15-2007, 06:27 PM||#9 (permalink)|
1987 300D Sturmmachine
1991 300D Nearly Perfect
2000 VW eurovan FOR SALE
1985 300D car, sold and missed.
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