anybody got a good source for the halfshaft on 84 300d? i am going to take everyones word for it and not attempt a repair on this one until it is out and car is back FMC. i checked autohauz and they want $352+. i have seen talk of guys getting them cheaper. also, anybody here done the change out before?
w123 Driveshaft Parts -- you may find them cheaper yet, but it's a step in the right direction.
Do you know if this is a new axle? The problem is that many rebuilt ones are remachined and their hardened surfaces removed so they do not last at all.
The axles are remanufactured. Personally, I wouldn't waste my money on a new one. I have never heard of a remanufactured axle breaking. In fact, as far as I can recall, we have never even warranted one -- and that covers more than 20 years. OTOH, I have heard stories of some schlock rebuilders out there, but that's true of all kinds of parts.
Here is the problem. If the axle being rebuilt is in good shape and the joints are not worn, only the boots need to be replaced, no big deal. But if the spider joint must be machined and oversize balls used in the joint, this involved removing the hardened surfaces, which leaves soft metal in the joint, which the hardened balls will wear out rapidly.
This does not mean that the axle will break: the only symptom may be that of a worn joint, i.e clunking noises, vibration, etc.
So when buying a rebuilt axle, one can get a really good one, or maybe not so good. It depends on the rebuilding process. If really worn out joints are rejected, chances of getting a good axle are really high. Or if the remachined joint is heat treated, like it would be on a new axle. Or if only new CV joints are used. But how many rebuilders will go to this length?
Recently I spoke with the local independent shop that services MB and other German cars. The shop is run by a former MB mechanic who worked for MB dealerships for years. He has had nothing but rotten luck installing so called "rebuilt" axles on MB cars. Many of these axles simply do not perform well and do not last. And the axle supplier simply ignores the complaints and does not stand behind his product.
If you intend to keep your MB car for a long time, replacing the axles with new ones is the only logical thing IMHO. Or rebooting your existing ones if they are in good shape.
The Autohaus axles are brand-new. I just put one on my car. BTW, I have a used transaxle off my car with intact boots if anyone is interested. The axle is original and the boots are cracking but the grease is still inside. Anyone seriously on a budget and wants to rebuild it can have it for free. Just pay shipping if you don't live in "Lost" Angeles.
So when buying a rebuilt axle, one can get a really good one, or maybe not so good. It depends on the rebuilding process. If really worn out joints are rejected, chances of getting a good axle are really high. Or if the remachined joint is heat treated, like it would be on a new axle. Or if only new CV joints are used. But how many rebuilders will go to this length?
I would suggest that is a reference to the quality of the rebuilder. I'll say this -- if remachined joints are not heat treated (aka case hardened), the reman process is inadequate and unacceptable. If your mechanic friend has been dealing with a low-quality rebuilder, good on him for no longer supporting him -- I wouldn't either. That is not a condemnation of all rebuilders. In any case, let's just respectfully agree to disagree.
Agree. I would have no problem whatsoever with buying properly rebuilt axles. For example, Mercedes dealers sell only remanufactured axles for 81-85 300SD and I would have pretty good confidence that they are rebuilt correctly because MB has the OEM specs that they must meet. Unfortunately, the best price they can give me on these is $ 500 per axle, which is too high.
I'll say this -- if remachined joints are not heat treated (aka case hardened), the reman process is inadequate and unacceptable.
This is almost unbelieveble! Remachined Joints??? That really is stupidity. I have never heard of this before. I think I would'nt want to be even near a shop which would recomend this! Like said before: The hardning proces (of both parts!), new oversized balls, AND proper PRE-loaded mounting will make this proces almost impossible to do correctly by any shop which is not specialized in stuff like this! (And then I won't even have thought about the theoretical knowledge of the machining tollerances, surface-roughness, and the needed mounting tollerances between the parts) Actualy I think only manufactures of these joints really have the knowledge and machinery to do this...
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Cars:
1980 W123 300 TD
1980 Austin Mini 1000 VAN
But the daily driver is my bike:
1990 BMW K100RS ABS
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