The high ground clearance on stock W123s is needed here in Houston. Houston is sinking, the soil isn't too stable, so we always have potholes, dips, and uneven segments of road between expansion joints. Some lowered 123s look good, but I'm not looking to bust an oil pan.
well hopefully i can fabricate some lightweight aluminum skidplates for a feasable price soon. i'm going to test everything on my car, and with my current stance, i think i'd be a great test subject i am more privaleged living in scottsdale with few dips or imperfections. my mk2 VW was very low, and i rarely scraped anything here. but a trip to my freinds house in west phoenix is suicidal even with factory mercedes suspension!
I would like to know more about the rear end, i don't even know what an "eccentric bushing" is. I assuming chewing up tires from wierd camber settings? Is the only way to fix this with completely new rear control arms? is Kmac katmac or something else? I plan on having a full alignment done after lowering the car, i will also be doing all of my tie rod ends at the same time, will the front eccentric be adjusted through that process or is it additional work? A 2" drop is what i am planning to do. Any less/more can be achieved with the spacers.
So whats the story nur? how did you do it? removed spring spacers i assume? It looks incredible anyway. Is the paint on your car metallic? I loveee the color either way. Might be crazy but i think the black centered pentas would look f'ing mean on the car. That looks like serious fender rubbing material, bumps or no bumps.
right now the car doesnt scrape even under hard loads and full lock. it is lowered to the optimal height for the roll center. i did it by cutting coils. many people give this a bad rep because people get carried away. but having less coils increases the spring rate and obviously lowers the ride height and roll center. and yeah, the paint is metallic on my car. it's a very "period" color IMO, but i'd like to do something else. i told myself i wasn't going to own another black car, but 123s look gorgeous in non-metallic black. but i'm still deciding. i'm in no hurry. back to suspension, many people don't realize that even race teams will cut springs for higher rates. i didn't just rip them out and chop them. it was a 12hour job. many measuremnets and math. and as for the eccentric bushings, lose them! remember... heim joints. during my 12 hour all nighter, i also did some investigations and planning for converting to heim joints. i'd like to fabricate stainless steel or very high grade forged aluminum upper control arms with heim joints. but the little trick that makes all the difference is shortening the piece by maybe 1/10 or 1/8 of an inch to regain camber after losing the eccentric bushings.
I am not going the heim joint route. I don't like the noise issue and a diesel station wagon is never going to be a race car, so i dont need to get that into the mods. A 280 coupe i could understand the need though. I don't understand how cutting springs increases rate? and if its true why would anyone EVER by custom lowered springs? I think brown is VERY period and VERY euro. love that ish.
Last edited by bboybaroo : 10-20-2006 at 06:13 PM.
I know before you claimed set up were about the same, but over here they certainly aren't A good, professional bag setup, that isnt going to pop every month will run about 3,000 installed. If custom wound springs are 400, and a shock steup is 200, that is alot closer to my budget right now. I would love to have airbags. Tell me more about drive shafts breaking and why. And do you mean driveshafts or axle shafts?
i am more privaleged living in scottsdale with few dips or imperfections. my mk2 VW was very low, and i rarely scraped anything here. but a trip to my freinds house in west phoenix is suicidal even with factory mercedes suspension!
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