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Old 06-22-2006, 08:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Date registered: Sep 2004
Vehicle: 1994 E300 Diesel
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 36
Converting 280CE Petrol to LPG

Guys,

does anyone run LPG (Liquid Petroleum Gas) as we call it in Australia in their 280CE?

I'm guessing that it would be an easy conversion, just would like people's experiences.

At $1.50 a litre for Premiumm Petrol and me doing 130Km per day that ends up at $30 per day - expensive. And unfrotunately I don't think MB brought the diesel to Australia, so I'm stuck, convert to LPG or sell.
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Old 06-22-2006, 09:52 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2005
Vehicle: 1978 C123 280CE, 1988 500SEC
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Posts: 659
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My brother was going to convert his to lpg but he put a v8 into his 280CE so its a different story, i was thinking about converting mine to lpg but the power loss would suck hardcore as im building my car for performance. I only do about 200-300km's a week in the car, i don't really complain about petrol prices and i don't really care, i love driving my car, no matter how expensive petrol is, i will pay for it.

Have you tried ringing up Gas Research located here in Melbourne??

Where abouts are you located in Melbourne? I pay $1.33/litre max for premium each week (Boost 98)
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 85 280CE LPG, 1960 TR3A, 1975 Stag
Location: BRISBANE AUSTRALIA
Posts: 44
HI,
I am in Brisbane Australia and have converted my wifes 280CE 1986 to Dedicated LPG. It now runs for about $0.10 per Klm on 0.63 per ltr of Gas which is about the same as my Hyundai!
Car has already done 240,000K so engine is worn as expected.
I decided to go dedicated gas because dual Fuel on these can be a bit of a hassle. When on Gas it is possible to get back fires caused by poor ignition. This wrecks the fuel metering flap.

I decided to do the whole thing myself and Conversion was very easy(well sort of), it took me a day and then getting it certified with no hassle (Cert cost $45.00).
I removed the fuel tank and all the fuel associated equipment, pumps lines etc right down to just above the butterfly.
I had to weld an extension onto the bottom of the mixer, a bit like an SU Carburettor and joined it up with a piece of rubber hose perfect fit.
The mixer can use the old aircleaner rubber support brackets.

You have to run the auxiliary bypass to get idle adjustment which is no hassle.
disconnect the EGR and all the other petrol related Vacuum lines. You do not need th eEGR anymore as gas does not produce the polution and is 110 Octane so preignition is not a problem.
Advance the timing 8Deg.
The Sender units are a different resistance to 123 ones so you can not use the old fuel guage unfortunately, however the little LED indicators supplied with gas fit perfectly into the blank Horizontal window in the bottom of your instrument cluster. A little contact cement and slip it in from behind.

All in all the 123 petrol is made for gas convertion and runs sweeter, cleaner and longer as there is no dilution when cold. The oil stays cleaner etc etc..
Good Luck.
I can help in any way let me know.
Rob
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Old 06-27-2006, 01:12 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Date registered: Oct 2005
Vehicle: 1985 300TD Wagon
Location: Belgium
Posts: 408
In my opinion the M110 engine isn't very well for LPG use. In case you do make sure you adjust valves at least every 5 thousend kilometers!! The 4 cilinder engine is better for this kind of abuse.
And keep in mind it's very common to get poor milage on LPG!
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Old 06-27-2006, 02:51 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2004
Vehicle: '82 W123 300D
Location: Portugal
Posts: 93
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Modern systems here in Portugal include an oil canister to prevent excessive wear of critical components such as valves and valve seats. The system is similar to the one applied in auto-lube 2-stroke motorbike engines.
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Old 06-28-2006, 05:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jan 2003
Vehicle: 280CE
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 17
Rob B,
Roughly how much did the parts set you back? I thought you had to have the gas lines done by a licenced LPG mechanic?

blue280ce,
We got 300D and 240D mostly auto but there are afew 4spd manual 240D's rolling around.
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Old 06-28-2006, 06:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 85 280CE LPG, 1960 TR3A, 1975 Stag
Location: BRISBANE AUSTRALIA
Posts: 44
ALL up cost was about A$900. I got hold of a used 110Ltr tank for free.
the tank is one of the most expensive items. By the way I am about to change the tank for a 80Ltr as the one I have is taking up too much room in the boot.
Mine is a late 1985-86 model so I think I have the 123 Motor rather than the 110,
It will be better to have an oiler fitted as this will help with valve regression.
It would pay for you to find out what has to be done and how to see if you can do that.

It is OK to do the fitting yourself as long as you get it certified. If you are unsure about making brackets and do not have the equipment, then it would be better to get a licenced gas fitter to do the work or get him to advise you on what to do.


Mostly it is all about having the proper ventilation systems for the boot in place. Having all the right types of tubes and fittings, fixing everything correctly.
Non of it is complicated.

Have a look at this link. It will give you bit more information about how it all goes together. http://www.wps.com/LPG/
Rob
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Old 06-29-2006, 01:32 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jan 2003
Vehicle: 280CE
Location: Sydney, Australia
Posts: 17
Thanks for that, did you just get the parts from a local fitter? If your car is a w123 it will have a M110 motor, seeing its an '85 it should have the new series motor with the air intake on the pass side.
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Old 06-29-2006, 06:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 85 280CE LPG, 1960 TR3A, 1975 Stag
Location: BRISBANE AUSTRALIA
Posts: 44
I am still a beginner with MB so learning. Yes it is M110 engine I was wrong in last post.Intake is on the LHS. ( Engine number is 1109**etc)

The only thing I have not been able to find is the heated auxiliary bypass valve which I want to block off. Where is it? does this engine have one?
I have taken nearly everything apart looking for it except removing the whole inlet manifold...

I suspect it is leaking as I get shit running for the first 2 to 3 Minutes on cold start up. After that it runs perfectly. Better than it ever did on petrol.

I am interested if anyone knows in the valve spec and valve seat spec on this motor. I believe this last series is running or was running a higher compression.

So far I have not detected any valve regression but the advice I have so far is this motor has harder valve seats and is fine for unleaded or gas???
Time will tell as I will be checking the valve clearances.

Where do you get this sort of info?
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Old 06-29-2006, 08:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Date registered: Jun 2006
Vehicle: 85 280CE LPG, 1960 TR3A, 1975 Stag
Location: BRISBANE AUSTRALIA
Posts: 44
I did not answer your question fully.
I bought all the parts from the gas distributor. The gas fitter would put a margine on but still should not cost more than about A$1500 to have the whole job done.
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