Last fall, my CV boot had torn and spit grease all over. I got kits to replace the boots and cans, but the following removal procedure is the same whether you are remanufacturing or replacing.
(You might need to disconnect the brake lines, then bleed them again, but that is a different DIY.)
Procedure
1) Loosen shocks
2) Jack up car (support on stands)
3) Remove wheel
4) Remove bolt (13MM head) & washer
5) Free axle "can" from hub (-but don't let hang)
6) Open fill hole (14MM allen) then drain hole
7) Support differential with jack
8) Remove differential mount (13MM)
9) Remove differential plate (15MM)
10) Remove "C" clips at end of axles
11) Pull out from differential.
Vehicle: 1985 BMW 635CSi, 1988 BMW 325is, 1995 Jeep Wrangler, 2007 Ford F150, 1994 Suzuki DR350 Dualsport
Location: Hawaii and Alaska
Posts: 3,872
RE: Axle Removal
If I can just make a suggestion but rather than use a screwdriver,fashion up a wood drift from an old broom handle to drive the axle out.Also,remove the caliper and hang instead of disconnecting the brake line.This will also allow you to kill 2 birds with one stone meaning you can adjust the emergency brake while the rotor is off.
Yes, I was looking for a wooden piece, but it's cold in that garage, and I was wanted to get on with it. This is my first time doing this. I'm just showing what worked for me.
I guess I might do some more on the e-brake too while I'm at it. Just give me a few days to get at it... [:)]
Is there enough room to maneuver the left axle if that's the one that needed replacement? I see the exhaust is on the way. I need to do the leftside in the future, the CV boot just ripped recently but not a huge tear, more like a crack.
I got mine out without removing the exhaust line with no problem.
Here's a word of advice for you:
"Get new or remanufactured axles, not the rebuild kit!"
I thought I'd save myself $150. I spend so much money on little things, I figured I'd try to save on doing this myself. Sometimes doing it ALL yourself isn't the best route. Grease on my jacket sleeves makes it already not worth it. It is a job best left to those in cover-alls.
It's worth $150 to have someone else do this job. Seriously.
I would already have my wheels back on, not looking at gooey grooves, cans and balls at this point.
Okay, so as it turns out, there is significant wear to the spider joint grooves. Only a couple areas with actual pitting, but all grooves are worn in stripes.
So, after all that mess, I will need to pay the restocking fee for the kit, and get rebuilt ones anyway. I wanted to have it all here and ready before I started tearing into it, so I bought it before I could inspect the condition of these. They didn't sound bad. Yet. So, I end up spending more money instead of less. [xx(]
You use a hand grinder on the lip holding the two halves of the inner can together. Then you carefully pull (then hammer & punch) it all apart. All boots and clamps come off, everything except for the outside can. If you are having questions about the outside spider joint, well, tough. You can just pour out what oil you can get out of it. With this kit, you replace only the inside can. You can clean that one all out, but the outer can is there to stay.
Then, when you have everything back on the axle, you crimp the new can together with a modified vice grip.
This procedure is covered in the book mercedessource sent to me with the kit.
But, it is NOT worth it to do this messy, stinky job.
Last edited by Gregs300CD : 08-01-2006 at 08:09 AM.
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