Vehicle: 1980 300SD, 1992 Jetta w/ 2.0 ABA conversion, 1968 Ford LTD and 1965 Ford Fairlane
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 113
too much bad luck, my 300 diesel is locked up
I have not a clue how my oil line got damaged, and unfortunately i'm hard of hearing. I didn't hear the racket until i got next to the center median. looked down and no oil presure! shut it down immediately and cut off some cars to get her to the side of the road. $95 ride home. cleaned up all the oil under the hood, put new oil in, rotated the engine a few times manually. started it, ran for about 10 seconds then a god awful screech. thats when i noticed oil all over the cracked line going to the oil cooler. looked like something hit it from under neath, dented with a 1/8 " gash in it. maybe road FOD
So hears what i'm thinkin. ANY input on this idea will be considered. since i see soo many 300 diesels at junkyards i'm gonna pull a block thats not locked up, rebuild my head, get a gasket kit and a new oil pump and all the other accessories do the parking lot motor swap.
Vehicle: 1980 300SD, 1992 Jetta w/ 2.0 ABA conversion, 1968 Ford LTD and 1965 Ford Fairlane
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 113
got an engine outta the junkyard today,$70. Bolt cutters and knives are key for gettin 'em out quick, but forgeting my breaker bar slowed things down. Had to use a piece of exhaust instead to get the head bolts loose. Incidently, i've never had such a time getting that head off after getting all the bolts out, we had to use a fork lift to get the damn thing off.
total engine pulls to date, 5. soon to be 6.
Any atlanta folk out there that go to the Moreland Pull-a-Part, that huge mess on row 27 car 11 was me.
oh, and i also learned the painful leason of oil preasure vs. oil volume. just because i had oil in it didn't neccessarily mean i was getting oil preasure
an evening at the junkyard, i wonder why diesel mechanics get paid so much?
Oh dang Tim. Sorry to hear that about your engine, that sucks.
I had a bit of bad luck myself yesterday. I pulled my radiator and oil cooler to install a new radiator and I discovered that the lower fitting on the oil cooler was stripped!
No sense in putting that back in so I sent it to the radiator shop today to see if they can weld a new one on there.
Granted, not nearly the catastrophe that you had but bad enough!!!
Cylinder Head:
Intake valve:
$20.95 X5 = $104.75 Autoparts warehouse A4060-21329
$20.90 X 5 = $104.50 Autohaus AZ 6170530001 Intervalves
Exhaust valve:
$64.95 X 5 = $324.75 Autoparts warehouse A4050-21322
$19.81 X 5 = $99.05 Autohaus AZ 6170500027
Intake valve guide:
$7.95 X 10 = $79.50 Autoparts warehouse A3060-26703 USA
$4.60 X 10 = $46.00 Autohaus AZ 6160530329 TRW
Exhaust valve guide
$4.95 X 10 = $49.50 Autoparts warehouse A3060-26705 TRW
$3.57 X 10 = $35.70 Autohaus AZ 6160530330 TRW
Valve stem seal set:
$27.95 Autoparts warehouse A8069-21323 Goetze
$13.70 Autohaus AZ 6170500067 Meistersatz/VicorReinz
Pre- chamber seal ring:
$1.95 X 5 = $9.75 Autoparts warehouse A3190-21167 Erling
Pre-chamber collar:
$5.95 X 5 = $29.75 Autoparts warehouse A3180-21166 Laso
Cylinder Head Bolts
12x114mm $5.88 X 5 = $29.40 Autohaus AZ 6159900112 Febi-Bilstein
12x120mm $4.94 X9 = $44.46 Autohaus AZ 6159900212 Febi-Bilstein
12x145mm $6.25 X 8 = $50.00 Autohaus AZ 6159900312 VictorReinz (OEM)
Rocker arms:
$29.34 X 10 = $293.40 Autohaus AZ 6160500333
Cam Shaft:
$199.94 Autohaus AZ 6170511101 Febi-Bilstein
Machine work
Block (Mark @ Wills Auto Machine 770.451.8019)
$150.00 (hot tanking, inspection of pistons, check crankshaft, line bore and cylinders)
$750.00 (pressing cylinder sleeves, boring & hoaning)
$900.00 total Mark @ Wills Auto Machine 770.451.8019
Cylinder Head (The Cylinderhead Exchange 770.499.2010)
$300.00 Labor (pressing guides, grinding valves, cleaning and assembly)
$308.70 Parts
$608.70
$1508.70 (tax not included)
Order Cheat Sheet
Autohaus AZ
Head Gasket set: $46.28 Autohaus AZ 6170108520 VictorReinz
Block Gasket set: $53.98 Autohaus AZ 6170101205 ElringKlinger
Turbocharger Gasket set: $25.36 Autohaus Az 6170900680 ErlingKlinger
gasket total $125.62
Timing tesioning spring: $2.25 Autohaus AZ 1109933901 Mercedes OEM
Timing guide rail (inner) $2.84 Autohaus AZ 6150521116 Swag
Timing guide rail (outter): $3.04 Autohaus AZ 6150521016 Swag/Meyle
Timing chain tension rail: $25.12 Autohaus AZ 6150500916 Swag
Water pump: $41.90 Autohaus AZ 1102000920LA Laso
Thrust bearing set: $16.97 Autohaus AZ 6170300062 Kolbenschmidt
Exhaust valve:
$19.81 X 5 = $99.05 Autohaus AZ 6170500027
Intake valve:
$20.90 X 5 = $104.50 Autohaus AZ 6170530001 Intervalves
Intake valve guide:
$4.60 X 10 = $46.00 Autohaus AZ 6160530329 TRW
Exhaust valve guide:
$3.57 X 10 = $35.70 Autohaus AZ 6160530330 TRW
Valve stem seal set: $13.70 Autohaus AZ 6170500067 Meistersatz/VicorReinz
Cylinder Head Bolts
12x114mm $5.88 X 5 = $29.40 Autohaus AZ 6159900112 Febi-Bilstein
12x120mm $4.94 X9 = $44.46 Autohaus AZ 6159900212 Febi-Bilstein
12x145mm $6.25 X 8 = $50.00 Autohaus AZ 6159900312 VictorReinz (oem)
Transmission Filter (Long Neck) $16.09 Autohaus AZ 1232770095 ElringKlinger/Meyle
Vehicle: 1980 300SD, 1992 Jetta w/ 2.0 ABA conversion, 1968 Ford LTD and 1965 Ford Fairlane
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 113
today is the day
7:30AM... Sunday??? Normaly I'd be dreaming of hauling ass in a '75 911 at the Road Atlanta track, but everything has to go out on monday: block, crank, pistons w/ rods, and the cylinder head. Under better circumstances i'd send the transmission out as well, but as for now time and money are restricted. So i cant help but wonder about the day i really fell in love with the W116.
I owned my SD for about a month at this point. Calipers were leaking, $40 for calipers kits. Eww...fender trim, craked US headlights, no passenger mirror, grill all messed up, passenger door handel broken, american bumpers and filthy.
l
Thanks so much Ether, for hookin up the euro lights! I scored the grill and a passenger side mirror (same car Ether got his black center console out of)at the junkyard.
Much better...
i got a euro bumper, but i gotta say... i kinda like sittin on that thing.
Still got dirty quick. Had a little blowby because of some shoddy rigging...What a freakin disaster
time to get to work, i got a kick ass place to pull my motor... so much better than a parking lot. thats my LTD way in the back (car driving by in front of it) too bad it over heated
*update* (This would have been impossible in a parking lot)
Vehicle: 1980 300SD, 1992 Jetta w/ 2.0 ABA conversion, 1968 Ford LTD and 1965 Ford Fairlane
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 113
the break down...
got my shop all set up, had stuff stashed all over town at friends houses
the dirty ass junkyard engine
Engine type 617.952 out of an '84 300SD. The oil pan on this version looks like cast aluminum and has heat sinks, vs. my 641.950 which is just stamped
good god mercedes torque their shit down tight. Impact was useless, had to call in the heavy hitter (Jason 6'5" 250lbs and a big ass cheater bar)
the entire front of the engine gave me problems, like my home made slide hammer.
the opperating table...
block cleaned of all gasket material, lookin a lil' better. general rule of thumb, do whatever you can to help your machinist as far as cleaning goes. the more you can do for him the more he can focus on more important things like hoaning and checking the line boar. man, i can't wait 'till i get it back from the machine shop
Vehicle: 1980 300SD, 1992 Jetta w/ 2.0 ABA conversion, 1968 Ford LTD and 1965 Ford Fairlane
Location: Atlanta
Posts: 113
still making progress...
But still waiting on the machine shop. Its lookin' like I could get the replacement block back next week. It wouldn't make that much difference though, because i still haven't gotten my parts in yet.
Here's my progress as far as last week.
I started with the easy part,, the exhaust ( so I thought). After the air cleaner, I started to take off the turbo. No problems until I had gotten to the lower left exhaust bolt. Seriously, what a pain in the ass. I used everything in my arsenal, but i just couldn't get a good grip on it. So i made my own tool
I took an old crappy 3/8ths drive breaker bar and cut it down to 7 inches long. Even reused the handel. Then rounded off the edges to fit the profile of a 17mm socket.
worked perfectly!!! Perfect low profile 3/8 drive breaker bar, it's a keeper
The level of engineering put into this car is constantly surprising me. The way the intake and exhaust fit together is real slick.
With the exhaust gone I started unbolting everything from the cylinder head.
the opperating table part II
Unfortunatley i forgot where i had gotten a few nuts and washers, resulting in my first *?* label
this will never happen again
That being done it was time to drain the block. Again, mercedes thinking of everything and having a drain plug for the block! AWESOME! I wish more engines were designed this way, so much easier and less messy
Everything is clear, time to take off the head
But... thats about as far as i got before my compressor tripped the breaker. My buddy wasn't home at the time so it was time to call it a day.
I scored the grill and a passenger side mirror (same car Ether got his black center console out of)at the junkyard.
Linear Mode
