need help with with a few things on my 450

[SalvageTitle]

first, i need a diagram (or good description) of how the shift linkage works. when i picked up the car the shifter was sloppy, i trusted a sober friend to drive me home from the bar friday night, she pulled straight down on the shifter (you pull in until reverse then let out and pull down to go in drive), and she pulled pretty hard... even after warning her and explaining how to do it. maybe if someone could direct me to the possible problem? i have never owned an automatic car. i have the column shift model.... might be a key piece of info.


is my car supposed to run really rough when cold? mornings and nights have been much colder than it normally is this time of year. it had a tune up in march(prior to my ownership), but i don't trust the shop that worked on it... so i figure it wouldn't hurt to tune it up and check the timing... i know old v8's take a while to warm up, but i've never known a fuel injected car to take run so rough for so long. i'm sure this is an easy fix.


what would cause the antenna to stay up? possible wiring issue or is the electric motor done for?

that is all for now. i'll give a big thanks in advance for helping me, this car is still so new to me.

[Nutz 4 Benz]

Test temperature sensor II is quite possibly the culprit as far as the rough idle when cold.Here is how it works;

At about 50 degrees the resistance should be 3000 to 4500 ohms.As the engine temperature rises to 120 degrees,the resistance should drop to less than 1000
ohms.If the sensor is damaged or failing,it will not continue to function and the resistance values will
be erratic and then when it fails completely,an open
short or ground will occur.

If you have an open circuit in the temperature sensor II or in the wiring going to the sensor,the engine will run extremely rich once it is warmed up.
Signs of this will be dark smoke from the tailpipe,rough idle or weak ass power.

Should the sensor become shorted or the wiring harness becoming grounded,it will not be noticable after the engine is warmed up.It will act like a carb with the choke sticking and idle will be erratic and rough,then as it warms up,run smooth.

These D jetronic fuel injection systems are fairly easy to fix and all that really is needed to diagnose
is an ohmmeter.

[SalvageTitle]

Nutz 4 Benz - 11/9/2005 11:26 AM
Should the sensor become shorted or the wiring harness becoming grounded,it will not be noticable after the engine is warmed up.It will act like a carb with the choke sticking and idle will be erratic and rough,then as it warms up,run smooth.

bingo. sounds like my problem, except the idle is erratic... if it's really cold the the engine will fire, get to 1000 rpms and then die... start it a 2nd time and it just acts VERY cold blooded. you try and give it a little gas and it hates life. once the temp starts rising it mellows out. it will still sputter for a few miles when i take off from a stop, the power is weak. I have a nice voltage meter at the shop, you can check ohms with it.... but how? i have never really used one... i should be a pro after owning a vw,luckily i have a electronic genius for a friend so he did all the wiring problems with my vw's. where is the sensor and how much to replace it? thanks for the help.

i should also add, the idle seems rather low... idles between 500 & 1000 rpms, closer to 500 than 1000 though. just seems really low, but could be normal.

[Nutz 4 Benz]

Read up on the D and K jetronic sticky thread here at 116 forum.I tried to explain all the testing procedures without turning it into a novel but pretty
cut and dry. [:)]