Could you look at this Nutz - Benzworld.org

nomada · 10-21-2005, 08:39 PM

Hi Nutz, despite being of no help to you with your Torque/Flywheel issue...

As you seem to know a bit about the CIS system could you please give me some advice with my 126, can you tell me if the piece of metal that has the small rubber block in the middle, that runs across the airflow sensor opening is needed

I've removed it so I could fit a different intake setup that I rigged

I may look for a more some aluminium (aluminum) piping, but in the mean time do you think I'll need to wrap the piping with some sort of insulation?

Thanks, Damon

**Nutz 4 Benz** · 10-22-2005, 12:15 AM

You know what and this is just a suggestion,ditch that ?Asian import? boot out the picture and fab from scratch! If you can somehow fab the cover over the airflow sensor to have the air follow a plane that follows the the path of least resistance i.e. Give me a little bit and I"ll draw up a diagram of what I'm
suggesting.Also was this the one you wanted two cone filters (one on each side?)

About the bar that goes across the venturi..Leave it on!! There for a reason [;)] Prevents damage to the control plunger mostly and other parts as well when subjected to shock ,yada,yada,yada....You get the idea[8D]

nomada · 10-22-2005, 12:51 AM

Cheers Nutz, I'm keen to see what you come up with, and yes I did want a dual filter setup for this one

The boot over the opening is off an Audi 80[:o]
which I think had the KE Jetronic system

**Nutz 4 Benz** · 10-22-2005, 02:32 AM

Mind you this is hand drawn and then a photo of it[:I]
Need some sun for this camera to take decent shots or better yet a drafting program[;)][;)]Anyways,you get the idea of how the air is directed past the venturi
(at an angle) and then to the throttle body .This will provide a crisper throttle response[8D]

nomada · 10-22-2005, 03:30 AM

That'll be good to do

I'd love do it to my 450 but the motor is in need of other work, the valve guides and stem seals need replacing
I have the parts but I just can't seem to get round to doing it[:(!]

Thanks Nutz

Damon

mikal · 07-25-2006, 11:39 PM

does anyone know where u can get the addapters that connect the pipe with pod to the engin??

daveward · 07-26-2006, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nutz 4 Benz

Mind you this is hand drawn and then a photo of it[:I]
Need some sun for this camera to take decent shots or better yet a drafting program[

][

]Anyways,you get the idea of how the air is directed past the venturi
(at an angle) and then to the throttle body .This will provide a crisper throttle response[8D]

Hi Nutz...the air in Alaska must really be sweet, 'cause you keep coming up with so many CREATIVE ideas. Anyway...bringing air in at those angles you've pictured improves throttle response? Do you have a moment to explain this?

Also, I have dreamt about the Nomada approach to air filtering but I keep bumping up against this idea: the circular inlet is actually close to 19-20 square inches so I've been assuming the "best" intake system would involve piping totalling 19-20 square inches. Two three inch pipes would only yield only 14 or so square inches and in my dreams I quickly run out of room for piping. Is my logic correct...that the piping should be as close to the inlet size as possible? Thanks. Dave

**nutz4benz** · 07-27-2006, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveward

Hi Nutz...the air in Alaska must really be sweet, 'cause you keep coming up with so many CREATIVE ideas. Anyway...bringing air in at those angles you've pictured improves throttle response? Do you have a moment to explain this?

Simply put... more air equals more power with K jet. The airflow sensors plate is a serious restriction to airflow and redirecting the airflow in the right direction will let it "swallow" more air,think of it as streamlining.I'll whip up a diagram later.

Quote:

Also, I have dreamt about the Nomada approach to air filtering but I keep bumping up against this idea: the circular inlet is actually close to 19-20 square inches so I've been assuming the "best" intake system would involve piping totalling 19-20 square inches. Two three inch pipes would only yield only 14 or so square inches and in my dreams I quickly run out of room for piping. Is my logic correct...that the piping should be as close to the inlet size as possible? Thanks. Dave

Two 3 inch ID pipes should do just fine.Look at the size of the snorkel of your factory airbox. Most important thing with this mod is to isolate from any source of heat i.e. fab a cold airbox. Cold air is denser which I'm sure you already know.

mikal · 02-25-2007, 02:52 AM

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone can post picks of an airflow sensor or atleast tell me where its located?? Im going to try put a 450 airflow sensor on a 280, heard the power increase is quite noticable. any help would be greatly appreciated.

cheers...

mercmad6.3 · 02-25-2007, 06:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mikal

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone can post picks of an airflow sensor or atleast tell me where its located?? Im going to try put a 450 airflow sensor on a 280, heard the power increase is quite noticable. any help would be greatly appreciated.

cheers...

I can say with some authority that you guys are barking up the wrong tree.
Firstly, the air flow sensor DOES NOT IMPEDE AIRFLOW!!!.If you look very carefully at the shape of the funnel it is designed to flow air at a rate far higher than the engine will ever need.
As the air moves past the disc it moves into an area of increasing angle of attack,the sides become steeper.This has the effect of making the air move faster and in the process pulls the disc down( or up, if you have a Volvo etc ) .
The size of this disc has nothing what so ever to do with power.
If you want to increase power ,you need to increase the amount of fuel available to burn.
The warm up regulator varies the amount of fuel pressure available ,so when the engine is at full working temp ( approx.80 C) the fuel pressure is at max .This pressure is working against that disc.
To demostrate ,with the engine off,push on it,you will feel a definate pressure( if the accumulator is OK) .To increase the flow of fuel and make more power you need to reduce the effect the warm up regulator has.
Some one has suggested the system pressure be up graded by increasing the number of shims in the pressure regulator on the fuel distributor .This is patently foolish as it actually reduces power.WHY?
Because too much pressure causes the disc to become hard to push down...get my drift here?
You need to be able to increase system pressure/flow without interfering with the operation of that disc.
After all it's only moving air which is sucking it down.
This where devices such the UTCIS electronic warm up regulator come into play.
They can reduce the fuel pressure at predetermined points to make the disc move more freely but still let more fuel through to increase power.
UTCIS Warmup Regulator Replacement
The use of twin snorkels is OK ,Just fit a 560 air cleaner.
A far more practical aproach is to fit a larger throttle body.This will enable more air to drawn into the engine,in fact I have even seen a 380 with twin throttle bodies sucking through one stock airflow sensor. Fitted with a UTCIS WUR it produces close to 400HP with stock heads.Max revs are off the stock tacho.
Heres a pic courtesy of Bosch of the airflow meter and fuel distributor.

F