1968 280S revival - Mercedes-Benz Forum

 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-29-2016, 10:12 PM Thread Starter
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1968 280S revival

I have a 1968 280S (w108) project, I bought it as a non-runner. I put a fresh battery and nothing happened, no clicks, no whirs just utter silence. So maybe the starter is bad but before taking out the starter I decided to fill the bores with Marvel Mystery Oil to lubricate the rings and loosen things a bit. I also took the cam cover off and poured some MMO on the valve train and the timing chain. Now I want to rotate the crank by hand (or see if it will rotate and the engine is not seized) but having a hard time getting a socket on the crank nut, not much space. Next step is taking out the radiator, fan, and shroud. Any tricks to doing this and what should come out first. At the moment I am in the process of loosening the four 10mm nuts holding the fan.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 10:23 AM
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I thought I put the 27mm socket with an extension on the crank easily on my 1969 280s parts car pretty easily from under the car. My memory may be failing though. Maybe the motor mounts were shot. Maybe I had it jacked up.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 08-30-2016, 06:53 PM
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On my '70 280sel, I remember having trouble from below due to the shroud. I was able to get a deep well 27mm socket on the bolt from the upper driver's side through the fan blades, but it was a knuckle cutter. Doable, though.

1981 300TD--310k miles
1970 280sel--172k miles
1966 230--162k miles
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-01-2016, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Jorge Garcia View Post
I put a fresh battery and nothing happened, no clicks, no whirs just utter silence. So maybe the starter is bad...
Quite honestly I think it might be easier getting to the starter than to the crank. I think that the starter should engage (solenoid) even if it can't turn the engine. So to my mind, if you hear nothing then no power is getting to the starter...

You might want to test power to the starter and power (with ignition switch in start) to the solenoid... If there is room there to do this safely, I think you can jump the starter cable to the solenoid to crank the engine.

I assume your car is an automatic? If so, you need to check that the neutral/park safety switch isn't the problem.

When you turn the key to on, do the oil pressure and amp lights come on? (wait, maybe there is no oil pressure light...) Something on the cluster should be lit up when key is on and car is not running.
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Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-01-2016, 02:18 PM
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Also, do OTHER electrical things work (lights, horn, etc). Are you sure your new battery has a good ground...?
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Currently: 1967 250 SL, 1963 220Sb, 1965 300SE Lang, 1971 280SE parts car, 1972 Alfa GTV, 1965 Alfa Duetto, 1993 BMW R100R
Past: 1971 250 C, 1985 300 TD, 1967 250 S, 1968 280 S,1981 300 D, 1982 280CE, 3 Facel Vegas, Borgward Isabella Coupe, Alfa 2600 Sprint, Volvo P1900 (yes), numerous less interesting Volvos, ...
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 09-03-2016, 09:07 PM
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Very good thinking, Scoot!
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