I would take out the tensioner. it removes slack on the backside of the chain. the other side is the one that has to line up the crank and cams. Remember you were already 10 degrees which is one cam tooth off when you started.
This may be helpful also
PeachPartsWiki: M116/117 Timing Chain Replacement
Dang, that's the best walkthrough I've seen thus far! I had been looking for one like that! Thank you!
Which side are you working on first? I had a similar thing happen. I also dropped one end (on the Left hand side) and when I recovered it, it had a kink in it where two links had folded back on themselves. I had to drop it back down and coax the links to straighten out by pulling some slack back to the right hand bank, then pulling it back to the left hand bank with tension on it. Just remember, the engine isn't running and as long as you are not beating on things, you wont hurt it. Just make sure everything is at TDC and on the marks when you finish.
I started on the passenger side, and the right hand side dropped off. Thanks for the insight!
Removing or loosening the chain tensioner will allow the tensioner rail to hinge back and provide some slack on the passenger side. That should allow you to pull up on that side. Hopefully enough to reconnect the chain.
You could now see if you can apply tension to the tensioner rail. Try using a large screw driver or lever. If you can, re-install tensioner and see if you can rotate chain. See where the marks now are to see what next step might be.
Or at least that is what I would try, if I was in same situation.[/QUOTE]
I think I understand the logic here. If I remove the tensioner, that should give me a bit more space to pull the two chain ends together. Then I can re-crank the engine around and get the original chain back to the marks I photographed, and start over? And just keep a close eye on the driver side cog to make sure nothing skips over there when I'm rotating.
I'm assuming the extra slack created between the driver and passenger cams is going to create a timing imbalance that I'll have to correct for once I rotate the engine around. Right?
Is this the process you're describing:
1) Remove the old tensioner.
2) Pull the LEFT side chain up to meet the RIGHT side (moving the left side two spots farther forward than it was before.
3) Reconnect the tensioner loosely, and reconnect the chain.
4) Rotate the engine back around 1 rotation, checking TDC along the way.
5) Mark chain position, remove to adjust cog position to re-set timing to the photographed positions below.
6) Crank till master link re-appears, and re-start feeding the new chain.