Tips on removing and storing 4.5 engine from W108 280SEL - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-02-2016, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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Tips on removing and storing 4.5 engine from W108 280SEL


I have a 1972 280SEL 4.5 parts car with a running engine. I want to remove the engine and trans to store.

I already have the engine crane and engine stand

Any tips on removal?

How about storing the engine? Should it be completely dry? Plug all the holes I assume - anything else?

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 09:24 AM
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I've never pulled an engine from a w108, but I'm in the same situation with a 280sel 4.5 parts car and a rust free 280se 4.5 that blows smoke. There are many engine components that are far better on the SEL, so I will probably pull the engine intact.

I can't imagine that pulling the fluids would be beneficial unless you plan on shipping the engine. Most of the engines I've had out of cars still have the oil in the oil pan.

Of course the coolant needs to be drained as best as you can because the radiator won't come out with the engine. Trans cooler lines are attached to the oil pan area. So you will want to drain that fluid too as you remove the radiator, assuming that makes sense to pull out to get out of the way before pulling the engine. So drain the trans fluid and coolant the best you can. Maybe you want to pull the trans pan or siphon out the fluid if you have that tool. I don't, so I haven't. I just deal with the leaking trans fluid. As for draining the coolant, I believe there are drain plugs in each side of the engine. I don't have pictures of this right now.

In my case, the SEL engine will probably be going right into the other car. Maybe I will store the original SE engine assuming it's the original block and may be worth rebuilding some day to make the car 100% original. So maybe I will go through the storage stuff for that engine.

Oh... I will be pulling the engine and trans together. I will probably assume the SEL transmission is good. The SEL has no exhaust on it, and the fuel pump is INOP, so it isn't all that easy to verify the condition, but I hope to make it run and drive before pulling the engine and trans.


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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-03-2016, 11:56 AM
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I would remove all fluids.

Removal should be pretty straight forward as there is a lot of room. Just disconnect anything leading to the engine, and radiator. removing the fan may be good also to give more clearance.

You may need to remove the grill to give you clearance. make sure you have a engine leveler, they really make big diff in angling everything out.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-05-2016, 06:58 AM
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I've pulled mine with the trans attached. If you pull them together, you will need to have a fair amount of front to rear adjustment in your hoist because they need to come out at about a 45 degree angle to get the pan to clear the radiator support and then they need to be almost horizontal to get the trans tail to clear the radiator support. I actually used two to the front support on the engine and one to the rear of the engine.

Don't forget to remove the grounding strap from the rear of the engine to the firewall (on the driver's side on mine) as it is not obvious....don't ask how I know.

They are quite the heavy unit when pulled together. If you are going to work on the engine, then yes, I would use a stand. If you are going to store it, I would put it on some blocking on a 4 wheel cart closer to the floor.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-05-2016, 10:28 PM
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fonzi, running and driving in that bucket will be fun. drive shaft exhaust brakes electrical.........

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 07-05-2016, 10:38 PM
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i dont usually drain the oil. but a m117 has an oil cooler so it could leak some at an extreme angle i guess. if you store it on a floor or wheeld dolly try to use something to support its weight on the mount arms. sitting it on the oil pan can smash the gasket and cause leaks later.

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