Date registered: Oct 2012
Vehicle: 1972 220 D, 1974 450SL, 1995 E300D 2002 S430, 1976 300D
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Quoted: 228 Post(s)
No indication of price so viability of repairs is up in the air.
There is always rust on these cars. Even garage stored, unless the thing was fresh water cleaned underside each time it went out between October and April. Front quarter panel rot between wheel and front door. Trunk will have rot, as will the cabin floor under the carpet. The front of the footwell as well as the rear footwell are very prone to rot. The headlight bowl also is prone to rusting. THe only real way to know is to crawl all over the car with an ice pick and poke, poke, poke. A seller who balks at that, knows he is selling junk.
The IP can be rebuilt, but can be very costly ($2k). Since it is a really simple system, and engine driven, you may be looking at a failed gearing issue.
Rotted fuel lines will introduce air into the system that results in a no start problem. The manual pump of that age leaks air, so best to install a new design to replace it. Fresh filters all around will give you better flow to the IP. Blocked return lines will cause issues too. With fresh lines you should be able to get fuel to the IP. Pump the living hell out of the hand pump. It may take five minutes to get the system primed.
At this point crack the lines at the top of the IP one at a time while pumping to see if fuel is at least getting through the IP. Then, crack the ends of the hard lines at the injector one at a time while somebody pumps away. You should have four good lines dripping fuel to the injectors. Now you need to inspect the injectors. These can be and should get rebuilt with fresh pintles and pressure tested for spray pattern. With the injectors out, put a teaspoon of synth oil in each cylinder so when you first crank it, the pistons get lubrication.
When you pull the injectors, remove the pre chambers and glow plugs, then ream the built up coke in that area of the engine. I tend not to trust old glow plugs, so get fresh ones so you have four working plugs. Low cylinder heating can make starting hard. The old engines that have been ignored hate to start in cold climate and have big issues at temps below 50*f. Old fuel also tends to gel below 40*. A gallon of kerosene in the tank will lower gel point so it will flow in a cold engine. I would use a pressurized sprayer with kerosene as a starting fluid.
The starter sounds like it is spinning up well. The battery (group 49) may not be up to the job of cranking well enough. Glowing will deplete the battery and will work fine, but leave less electrons to spin up the motor. A fully charged battery and a jump pack will get the motor spinning up fast enough to compress fuel for combustion. If you do not have a block heater, you will want to use multiple glow cycles before you attempt to start. A small space heater blowing hot on the underside of the block will help warm the engine and oil.
Fresh fuel and oil will increase your chance of getting it to light off in conjunction with good filters. You can bump start the car by getting it to 30 mph, then drop it into gear. That will give you ample compression, at a good speed, and if fuel is flowing, this will light it off. Even if all the car has is an undersized battery, this will get it running until you can install the right one.
74 450SL - Froggy
'02 s320 - Victor
'86 300SDL - Polei
'76 300D - Voldemort
'95 E300D - Cleo
'72 220D - Gump
'87 300SDL - POS SDL
92 300SE - #1 boys ride