How should I deal with this rust? - Page 6 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #51 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-09-2016, 12:10 AM Thread Starter
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Oh yeah, the second photo is just a wide shot in back of the spot welds seen in the first photo. I already pulled the rubber plugs out of those large holes an inch in diameter, it's safe to say their drain holes! . Yep, I have decided to do a full full floor replacement, this rusty floor is too far gone to save. More updates coming soon...

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Last edited by Shakedown St.; 01-10-2016 at 11:36 PM.
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post #52 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 09:07 AM
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If you feel brave enough post up some pictures of the "unsave-able" floor. You might be surprised at what can be saved.

You might be surprised just how difficult it might be to fit a floor removed from another vehicle. You might end up with just as much "patch working".

I appreciate the idea that unstitching spot welds and then plug welding and spot welding (where you can - which might also be a problem) seems like the ideal way to go but things don't always fit that well.
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post #53 of 67 (permalink) Old 01-23-2016, 11:16 PM
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When welding I always , even befor grinding down give the area a light coat of 'weld through primer' this will keep any moisture away if you find you are interrupted or cannot finish.

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post #54 of 67 (permalink) Old 02-11-2016, 08:01 PM
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I bought my 114 floor panels for real cheap at klokkerholm usa. I think they were under 100 dollars each side. I bought a Lincoln welder and tank. then I bought a used jeep yj full of holes for 300dollars. learned how to weld, and how to use a cheap paint gun on my compressor, sold it for 2000 dollars
anyways, I was comfortable enough after to weld in my own floors in my 114 and they look great
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post #55 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-01-2017, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Update coming soon...

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post #56 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Part 1: Honestly two years ago I had no idea where to begin, the two cars had turned into a disaster and was not sure one if it was worth it to fix them up or two if it was even possible. I waited out half the year looking for another W115 around the New England area, I was not traveling across country again just to run into another money pit. At one point I left the 240D out for sale on my road, it sat for two weeks and nobody wanted it for even close to what I had payed for it and don't ask.

Finally I had enough of sitting around, the original plan was a "cheap" classic car with great fuel mileage to be used as a daily driver. I was still way under my budget for what I had spent and then it sparked in my mind, I wanted to completely restore the car and teach myself along the way. I couldn't find any floor plan online that was anywhere near the quality of the original and that's when it hit me, I had my 300D trashed up but rust free sitting right beside my house this entire time. This was the final epiphany, this was going to be my free floor.

My theory was same chassis so it should fit just fine, I had no clue how I was going to attack this but I figured a first good step would be to melt off that black goo stuck onto the 300D donor floor. I went about doing this with an angle grinder, oh man. I slapped on my gas mask and went to work, and damn what a mess that job really was. It was so caked onto the steel I probably went through twenty steel attachments, but eventually got the entire car stripped out wires and all. I was relieved as the entire car was completely rust free and would make the perfect donor.






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post #57 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 01:20 PM Thread Starter
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Part 2: Next I was to move onto the rusted out 240D floor, I began grinding when the entire floor collapsed on me. I decided at that point just to drill the entire floor out by removing the spot welds. As we all know the frames on a unibody will warp if the floor is removed and I wasn't risking that, before it was fully taken out I brought it down to my local shop and had them remove every other spot weld I had left in place; I wasn't sending it on a tow truck exposed.

I found this shop way up in the boondocks of New Hampshire, the only shop that was even remotely interested in working on my car. As you can see it really was completely rusted out and what I was driving on for an entire year, finally we were starting to make some progress.




Here was the 300D donor floor I had half removed, look at all those spot welds!




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post #58 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Part 3: And here is the 240D floor that was falling off in pieces as it was transported to the shop, I was driving on this for two years!








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post #59 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 01:50 PM
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It's nice that those floors you removed came out with the sides, which will hopefully give you plenty to work with when installing.

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post #60 of 67 (permalink) Old 03-08-2017, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Part 4: Now we were getting somewhere, with the floors completely pulled out the new floor was ready to be welded in. I had never welded anything in my life and wanted it to be done right, the shop owner allowed me to sit in on the process of copper infused MIG welding and first sand blasted. I was a bit worried of the cost but as it turns out half the labor was grinding and removing the spot welds, it was well worth doing that before taking it down and saved a ton.






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