How should I deal with this rust? - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 07:26 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RedtailPDX View Post
Fluxcore is a waste of time.
I heard Fluxcore is better for outside work where the wind picks up. Is it that bad?

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post #12 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 08:21 AM
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fluxcore is messy and just doesn't work as well as gas.
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post #13 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 08:55 AM
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ML - My 85 300D also had rust-through on the floors. It also had some other serious structural and hidden rust. But as with you car, a good body.

Before you go too far, you should check for rust elsewhere. If the floors rusted, the water got in somehow. Most likely source, is from the bottom of the hood hinge pockets. Be sure to check those out! Then through firewall and sides of footwells to cabin area.



One floorpan. Note that floors are just one level. What you see here, is the frame rails. These rails and the floor itself are part of the structure of the car. As are the side members and rocker panels.



Here is a link to my experience. Restoration of my 85 300D - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

First link in first post is to the shop that did my welding. Lots of pictures. Second link is the long sorry tale and it includes welding comments.

I had shop do all the structural repairs. But I used POR/Fibreglass to patch non-structural holes. I also did most of the sealing and painting. Used DOM-16 which is similar to POR-15 for coating and a Napa seam sealer.

Been a couple of years now and car looks as good as new! Someone would be hard pressed to find any sign of all the work that was done. Total cost to me was about $3000. But shop was low cost - ~$50/hr.

Good Luck with your car!
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1972 350SL 4.5L - MBGraham, near Kingston, Ontario

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post #14 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 09:39 AM Thread Starter
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Is it necessary to drill with a spot weld remover before cutting the floors out?

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post #15 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 10:00 AM
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Is it necessary to drill with a spot weld remover before cutting the floors out?
You know I never really liked those spot weld cutters, but maybe I am just using the wrong brand or something. Typically when I have work to do that involves removing a spot welded part I'll do it with a cutting disc on an angle grinder - you just have to be super careful to only cut the steel you want to remove. Go through and you're screwed.

Re:fluxcore - they are mainly used outside for farm equipment, fences & gates etc. They are messy and not what you want for autobody work. I spent many many hours reading about what welder is the best value for the money for autobody and ended up deciding on the Hobart Handler 140.http://www.amazon.com/Hobart-500559-Handler-Wire-Welder/dp/B009X43F38.
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post #16 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 04:59 PM
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When it works as intended the spot weld cutter is pretty nice. Takes a bit to master. I would use one as much as I could and then grind/cut the rest.
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post #17 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 05:44 PM
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I doubt the 240d is worth the time to restore with metal. Quick and easy is what I would recommend. Por15/miracle paint and fiberglass, just as Kent Bergsma shows.

One problem I have seen with a lot of welded in metal is that the weld isn't protected as well as it should be and rust begins immediately starting at the weld location. This isn't a good reason not to weld in metal. I would just not recommend DIY welding if you want to he best bang for the buck.

I bought all the welding gear and still haven't really welded anything. Nicer
less rusty examples seem to come along before I break out the welder.

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post #18 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-15-2015, 09:39 PM Thread Starter
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Now let's say I decide to go through with this, is the floor two seperate peices or one peice? From the looks of it there's the drivers side floor and the passenger side floor board. Also, do the rockers come off with the floor boards or are those seperate? I would like to keep the rockers attached to the floorboards seeing I'd need to have new rocker panels welded in as well.

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post #19 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 12:23 PM
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Now let's say I decide to go through with this, is the floor two seperate peices or one peice? From the looks of it there's the drivers side floor and the passenger side floor board. Also, do the rockers come off with the floor boards or are those seperate? I would like to keep the rockers attached to the floorboards seeing I'd need to have new rocker panels welded in as well.
You can buy separate replacement floor pans for front and back both sides. On my car, the back floors were still good. Besides, there is a crossbeam between the front and the back that would probably have to be removed to install a 1-piece floor.

You don't have to use the complete replacement floor. Just cut out the parts that are needed.

You can fix small non structural holes with POR15 and fibreglass. But don't use that for anything structural. Structural, is the part of the floor pan that is above the under car frame rails. Looks like that is where you have a large hole, just like I did. Another structural part is the floor to door sill joint. The door sills/rockers act as longitudinal beams to support the vehicle. And then the firewall to cabin side and floor joints.

These are the sources for the Klockerholm patch panels:

'76-'85 FRONT FLOOR PANEL, DRIVER'S SIDE - KlokkerholmUSA
1976-1985 W123 - Rust Repair Panels - Page 2

I lightened up your pics so I could see where they were. Might as well post them here (they are at the bottom)

If welding is out, you may be able to cut patches from the Klockerholm pieces and adhere them to floor with an epoxy or new space age adhesive, then also though bolt or rivet through good part of floor. I did something like that, but just for the pedal support. Need backing plate or fender washers on underside.
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1972 350SL 4.5L - MBGraham, near Kingston, Ontario

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post #20 of 67 (permalink) Old 11-16-2015, 07:05 PM
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Buy the sheet metal floors and hire a good welder off Craiglist to put them in. This is not a do it your own job, as welding is as much art as science. If you want to save the car, get a proper weld. Fiberglass is crap. There are stacks of rusted out shit boxes I see weekly at parts yards. Even the benz cars end up there because some idiot thought glassing the floors would be enough. Instead the doors no longer work right, the floor turns into tissue paper and the only thing holding on is the glass fibers while the driver seats are near dragging on the street.

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