New member, New fintail purchase w111, 1965 220SEb, blue smoke :-( - Page 2 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-04-2015, 04:14 PM
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Hi Duane, I haven't been around for a bit but i have a lot of experience with that car from my past. The plugs you have shown show a good running old German engine so there's nothing there to worry about. The bill you posted shows a re-ring with out her pistons or the block being bored so there is taper in the barrels. Those are 4 ring pistons with low mounted wrist pins so don't rev it to the moon but don't baby it either. 20/ 40 or 50 is good for it, the smoke is only on hot restart so the rings are wet and the oil is thin so a bit will pass the rings when you first start it up. Valve seals would cause more smoke on or after a long decal off a hill with the throttle closed and then picking the throttle back afterwards. Listen for noises other than you have been hearing and the car wants service as such, 3000 miles an oil change, 6000 miles the same with brake inspection and chassis lubrication.... actually they wanted a grease job at 3000 but that's up to you. i forgot inspect the plugs, clean and regal as needed. 12000 miles is the bigger service, new plugs, valve adjustment, engine air filter, adjust the emergency brake tire rotation and brake inspection. The trans fluid was changed at 24-30000 mile intervals, don't remember exactly. Oh yes, lube the door seals and hinges as they have grease fittings and the differential oil was around 60000 I think. If it's a posi it will have a tag and the trans uses ATF or equivalent like a 20w. They actually came out with a specific oil later that was to quiet the syncros. Change the coolant and brake fluid every three years. Light oil like ATF or hydraulic oil on the linkage balls and bushings at spark plug intervals. A cup of water soluble oil at coolant change will extend the life of the orings in the heater valves, maybe a half cup. Good luck and enjoy the car.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-04-2015, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Vehicle: 1965 220SEb manual
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Bill, thanks. That is the plan, get a fintail with as little rust as possible and make it last another 20yrs. I already got a lubrication kits coming from MercedesSource.

A couple questions. The invoice shows that the pistons were replaced. Why not bore the block? Isn't that part of a ring job?

Also, there is a sticker on the gas door that says to inflate the tires in the low 20s. Is that correct? I bought a set of one of only two 13inch tires still on the market, Maxxis. The max psi was 44.
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-04-2015, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DuaneAllman View Post
Bill, thanks. That is the plan, get a fintail with as little rust as possible and make it last another 20yrs. I already got a lubrication kits coming from MercedesSource.

A couple questions. The invoice shows that the pistons were replaced. Why not bore the block? Isn't that part of a ring job?

Also, there is a sticker on the gas door that says to inflate the tires in the low 20s. Is that correct? I bought a set of one of only two 13inch tires still on the market, Maxxis. The max psi was 44.
To evaluate an engine prior to going foreword with a overhaul you need to measure the bore with a bore mike or gauge depending on what you have. Those blocks weren't the hardest blocks made and they did wear usually more towards the top of the bore. In the TDM there is a list of critical wear measurements and I used to measure the block, refer to the TDM to determine which repair size would resolve the bore and instruct the machine shop as to what I wanted. I ordered the pistons and measured the block after it was returned and if all is well you build it. Foe some engines there were 4 repair sizes and some only had 2 as the walls were thinner. Not sure why someone would do an engine replacing the pistons and not bore it, might be the second rebuild and didn't have as many miles on it. I have sleeved a few due to a failure scoring a wall but that was only a couple of times. I would run the tires at 30/ 32 lbs myself. There is also a line bore check and a deck truness that is usually checked when doing these engines. If it runs well and doesn't use too much oil enjoy it. The consumption is based on miles driven and how hard it's driven. A quart in 3000-5000 isn't at all unusual but I think it was considered OK to be higher if driven harder. I remember a case where a 600 was said to use a quart in 600 miles, it was discovered upon investigation the car was driven long distances like to Vegas at over 100 mpg often and it was considered a normal consumption.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 06-05-2015, 11:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the help. I will check the valve gaps next week and go from there.

Eddie

1965 220SEb
1968 230s
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