This car has been smoking crazy for a while, and it's always seemed like oil, but the compression numbers aren't that bad. And when I first start it up cold, it usually seems fine. As I was having trouble moving the car in reverse, I realized I'm out of trans fluid again, and I didn't recall seeing any massive loss on the ground. Hmm... maybe trans fluid is getting sucked up from the vacuum modulator?
So today I pulled the car away from the wood pile to remove the banjo fitting pipe from the trans to see if that would stop the smoking. Still smoking, but it's really only once it is warm. And the ecu knob seemed to have zero effect. Hmm... I bought that spare wiring harness. Maybe it's time to try it.
That was all after I set the timing. I think it was at 30btdc at idle. WAY ADVANCED! Maybe it's been Fuel in the exhaust all along. I recently got my 1985 500se with no cats to pass emissions by running it at 5btdc at idle. That seems to be the balance for minimum CO and HC. Although, I believe the spec for a 1973 4.5 is 5 btdc with no vacuum (AC on) and 5 atdc with vacuum. It seems I'm getting no vacuum pull at my distributor though.
I had to pull the distributor out to even be able to get it to 5btdc at idle.
I kind of really dug into this today with grand hopes.
So... if it doesn't run well in the really cold when the car is really cold, and it smokes when hot, maybe I've got some d-jet issues. Maybe I will try swapping wiring harnesses.
While I was in there, I decided to check the timing chain for stretch in case my timing was way off. But that didn't make too much sense, as I would get some exhaust pops when I set the timing really late. So that tells me the valves are not running late like you'd get on the passenger side when the chain is stretched. Anyway, I checked by pulling the passenger valve cover.
Timing chain looks good with only 3 degrees of stretch, original metal backed guides, and a master link on the chain at the passenger cam when near cylinder 1 TDC. Cool. Put valve cover back on and hope to stop that oil leak onto the passenger exhaust manifold.
Oh... cams look Worse than any running car I've ever had the valve cover off.
That may be an argument for getting the heads fully done or just replacing the heads.
I did not check the driver side or check the valve clearance.
So I got the rebuilt wiring harness installed and while doing it, I discovered that the throttle position sensor is way off and only gave me about 16-17 clicks. I adjusted it and now I get 20 clicks. It seems that either that (tps adjustment) or the wiring harness made the ecu knob made a big difference.
So... anyway... once the car warmed up after making all the changes, I realized that the ambient air temp sensor wires came disconnected. And when I connected those wires, the idle dropped way down. And the smoke kicked way up, and I couldn't get it to stop. It's hard for me to tell if it's oil or gas, but with the vacuum modulator pipe disconnected, I can be confident that I'm not sucking up trans fluid. Whether I've got oil or gas in the exhaust is TBD
though. With the d-jet wonkiness, I'm suspecting maybe it's fuel.
I have not gotten a fuel pressure gauge ready to use, but I'm concerned that maybe I'm running rich due to high fuel pressure. Hopefully later I will get my K-jet gauges and determine what my fuel pressure is and maybe adjust it if necessary.
Oh. I vacuumed out the engine bay and vacuumed off the remainder of the hood pad that was just making a huge mess. The engine bay of this thing is a real greasy mess. And the oil cooler seems to be leaking. So I guess I will take that from one of the parts cars.
Oh. You can see the spots where the chain has hit the head and valve cover in the past.