Sight unseen w108 purchase - Page 11 - Mercedes-Benz Forum

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post #101 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 07:45 AM Thread Starter
w108,107 Parts Hoarder
 
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Sight unseen w108 purchase

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
I'm pretty sure the "kick-down" function on the W108 is activated by the small switch beneath the accelerator pedal and not by vacuum. This is how it works on on every other '70's model of Benz I've worked on.The modulator's function is for smooth shifting at proper vacuum levels. Different from American iron.

Totally agree. That's how it worked in all the 1973 450sl cars I had too that I believe have the exact same drivetrain. I was just noting that all the transmission functions seem to be working pretty well and it is shifting smoothly.

Edit:
I went searching for the vacuum modulator, and see that it looks like a $200 part for this specific model, an all metal one called a "vacuum box". Before spending $200, I am probably going to keep working on my diagnosis. Perhaps I can check to see if there's ATF in the bottom of the intake plenum by inserting something into the throttle body.

Edit:
it seems there is someone selling part 0002700179 for $145 shipped. So once I confirm that the vacuum modulator is bad, I can go that route. I did sell a 1972 450sl transmission to @JN74SL for $80, and I could possibly see if he would be willing to send me the modulator from that transmission, but... At that point, I might as well install a new one. If it was laying on my garage floor, that would be a different story.

Another edit:
If the banjo fitting on the back of the plenum is more accessible on the w108 than the r/c107

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Last edited by Fonzi; 06-23-2015 at 08:21 AM.
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post #102 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 08:43 AM
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Man your car looks really nice! just take care of that smoke, sunroof and paint and it is done! I hope mine looks that nice when I'm done restoring it.
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post #103 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 08:46 AM Thread Starter
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Date registered: Jun 2010
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Originally Posted by Kaelor View Post
Man your car looks really nice! just take care of that smoke, sunroof and paint and it is done! I hope mine looks that nice when I'm done restoring it.

Thank you! It's got a long way to go, but just knowing that I accidentally hit 90 MPH last night makes me feel a lot better about the car's potential. I think the 4.5 m117 really suits a sedan much better than it suits an r107. I'm feeling really good about this car now.
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post #104 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 11:05 AM Thread Starter
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So the general driving smoking appears almost non-existent in this 96 F heat. Even when I smash the gas in not noticing any smoke. However, every time is start the car, even immediately after turning it off, I get a big puff of smoke. Interesting, eh?

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post #105 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 11:22 AM
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Classic worn guides/seals symptom. I still say drive it for a couple of weeks to see if it clears up.
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post #106 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 12:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Classic worn guides/seals symptom. I still say drive it for a couple of weeks to see if it clears up.

I do believe it's getting better, but just when I'm all excited that it seems a lot better, then it starts smoking more consistently. Hmm...

It looks like the tensioner is cleaner and shinier than the stuff around it. So I have to assume that at least the tensioner has been replaced. I haven't even checked the timing yet to see if if it way off. It doesn't feel torquey like other d-jet m117's I've owned, so I believe it certainly is not set too advanced. Since it doesn't have points, but an Allyson unit, I will assume that the timing has not retarded like it does on points cars. But, being a solid lifter car, I should assume the valves need an adjustment. I've got the hazet tool and a borrowed spring compressor for the guide seals and valve adjustment job.

The only reason that I'm tempted to call this a transmission fluid burn is due to the missing trans fluid and the dip stick showing dry on two occasions, yet the oil showing over-full (if anything) last night.

My 450slc 5.0 was making a burning oil smell after I did the TC job and changed the oil to some 20/50 weight. It was just a while ago though, and I'm not convinced that this smell is not different. Perhaps it's just a different type of oil.

Oh... On the way home, the smoke would come as I smashed the gas, not after like (I was told) the vacuum modulator would when I let up on the gas after high rpms (creating max vacuum).

I sure can't wait to figure this one out!

Hey, maybe I've got both ATF and oil burning!

.

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post #107 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 12:09 PM
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Keep an eye on the brake master cylinder fluid level also. The cylinder can leak fluid into the large canister and this will be drawn through the vacuum line into the intake.

Isn't owning an older car which sat for years fun?
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post #108 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
w108,107 Parts Hoarder
 
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Sight unseen w108 purchase

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike D View Post
Keep an eye on the brake master cylinder fluid level also. The cylinder can leak fluid into the large canister and this will be drawn through the vacuum line into the intake.



Isn't owning an older car which sat for years fun?

Thank you! I believe the brake fluid has looked ok though.

Yes! I love putting these things back on the road. This seems to be one that was taken off the road to start to restore it, but they didn't get anywhere with it, just removed the seats. Fortunately it still runs and drives. It almost seems like it could be someone's reliable transportation, but it's currently lacking a few creature comforts:
- front seat belts (retracting lap belts for two piece belts).
- functional radio (but it does make a static noise because it has no antenna)
- working AC (no belt on the compressor)
- working passenger front window
- doors that lock easily (and now trunk too since the different key from a cylinder transplant was stolen).

.

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post #109 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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Last videos of the day today.


https://youtu.be/rq0CzTmypa8

https://youtu.be/kws-y96PnDA

.

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post #110 of 140 (permalink) Old 06-23-2015, 09:43 PM Thread Starter
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Ok. I'm going to stop accusing the ATF just because the transmission was dry when I bought the car.

Here is a post I also wrote in the 107 forum:

----
Thanks guys.

Ok. If it looks like a fish, and smells like a fish, I guess it's probably going to be a fish. Right?

Tonight I checked the fluid levels, the old dirty liquidy oil might be a hair lower, but still over-full. So it's not as if there is so much oil getting burnt that I'm losing anything supper significant. However, after a spirited ride down the highway, and pulling I to the gas station, I realized I had to pull right back out instead of concentrating all the smoke in that gas station parking lot. The fire company was probably going to show up if I didn't get moving.

On the way back, I drove the car much more like an old lady, and all smoking seemed to subside. The smoke doesn't disappear instantly when I go back to idle speed, but it does seem that a startup or a smash of the gas pedal can created a plume of smoke, and more so on pressing down on the pedal (when vacuum is low) than letting up (when vacuum is high). Oil, not trans fluid getting sucked up.

I also checked the trans fluid, and the level is perfect, just at the high end while the car is warm and running, in park, on level ground, after driving through all gears. It is quick to enter all gears, forward and reverse (but, although irrelevant, the kickdown switch definitely isn't kicking down the trans gear). Trans fluid is good. It must have just finally balanced out and gotten to the level it needed to be after putting fluid in all the places that were previously dry, like the several quarts in the torque converter. Again, it must be oil, not ATF.

As for the brake fluid, the vacuum hose is new looking and very clean, as is the reservoir that is filled to to correct level.

Ok. So I think I can cross of the idea of purchasing a vacuum modulator. I can proceed to:
- check compression
- change the oil
- diagnose the lack of vacuum at the distributor for the vacuum retard,
- dig in and check the timing chain, maybe even just pull that filthy intake manifold and replace the valve seals. When will I do that? I'm not sure.
----

.

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