w108,107 Parts Hoarder
Date registered: Jun 2010
Vehicle: 4Keep:450slc5.0cab 280sl5sp 280se4.5 500seAMG 2sell:500sl92 380se83 300se86 350sl4sp 75slc MorInSig
Location: Philadelphia Area
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Quoted: 1798 Post(s)
Ok. I'm going to stop accusing the ATF just because the transmission was dry when I bought the car.
Here is a post I also wrote in the 107 forum:
Ok. If it looks like a fish, and smells like a fish, I guess it's probably going to be a fish. Right?
Tonight I checked the fluid levels, the old dirty liquidy oil might be a hair lower, but still over-full. So it's not as if there is so much oil getting burnt that I'm losing anything supper significant. However, after a spirited ride down the highway, and pulling I to the gas station, I realized I had to pull right back out instead of concentrating all the smoke in that gas station parking lot. The fire company was probably going to show up if I didn't get moving.
On the way back, I drove the car much more like an old lady, and all smoking seemed to subside. The smoke doesn't disappear instantly when I go back to idle speed, but it does seem that a startup or a smash of the gas pedal can created a plume of smoke, and more so on pressing down on the pedal (when vacuum is low) than letting up (when vacuum is high). Oil, not trans fluid getting sucked up.
I also checked the trans fluid, and the level is perfect, just at the high end while the car is warm and running, in park, on level ground, after driving through all gears. It is quick to enter all gears, forward and reverse (but, although irrelevant, the kickdown switch definitely isn't kicking down the trans gear). Trans fluid is good. It must have just finally balanced out and gotten to the level it needed to be after putting fluid in all the places that were previously dry, like the several quarts in the torque converter. Again, it must be oil, not ATF.
As for the brake fluid, the vacuum hose is new looking and very clean, as is the reservoir that is filled to to correct level.
Ok. So I think I can cross of the idea of purchasing a vacuum modulator. I can proceed to:
- check compression
- change the oil
- diagnose the lack of vacuum at the distributor for the vacuum retard,
- dig in and check the timing chain, maybe even just pull that filthy intake manifold and replace the valve seals. When will I do that? I'm not sure.